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i just bought a 2009 800 with a 163 and wanted to know the good and the bad things about the sled i know nothing about ski doo at all, all i have ever owned is polaris so some info would be great thanks
pros and cons
- Thread starter PDCLOM
- Start date
M
D
Congrats for turning to the yellow side. The XP is great....but does have a couple things that need to be addressed (if they haven't been dealt with already).
1. Clutching, the stock clutch set up has left a lot on the table. Get a decent clutch kit. And get from C & T powersports a clutch service tool kit. I like the Dynamo Joe clutch kit, there are other good kits out there too, get a popular one that is used for area you ride in. Dj is consistent, it works wonders and is a "set it and forget it" item. Also many high wear items were beefed up by skidoo in 2009, however, you may want to inspect internal clutch components regularily to catch a wear item before it is too late and costs you a bunch of cash. ie rollers, bushings.
2. Rear suspension, it sucks with the stock calibration. many guys, including myself, prefer letting out limiter all the way, loosening front skid shock all the way (just light spring tension) and then upgrading rear springs to next higher ones and running a lower setting on them. Me at 200 lbs i run the heavier springs on setting 2. Also get the shocks revalved by someone that revalves for a living, not your dealer (unless they race and know what they are doing).
3. Skis, switch left one for right one. Don't ask, just do it, makes sidehilling and donuts easier.
4. Sway bar, your preference on this (since you are coming from other side, you will find XP very stable and harder to lay over with its low Center of Gravity), so you may want to add a quick disconnector or remove it altogether. If you remove it then add heavier front springs of 90 lb/inch rating, so less dipping on trails as the stock springs are pretty light and it'll dip on trails very scary at speed, some guys don't care though.
5. Set bars in line with post, although this doesn't look as cool as staight up, it'll help you get a better position on sled to make it handle better, also made steering easier for me.
6. track, the durability sucks. Not really an issue for me in deep snow a lot so far, however, I've seen many fail out there in mtns (hitting stumps and rocks) and the rental shops are seeeing an unreal number of failures, just keep it in mind and watch it for problems. I haven't changed out mine, i'm waiting for an issue to go to the superior Camoplast Challenger Extreme track.
7. remove all underhood foam as well as cut out all the plastic around the tool kit to allow more air. If you add the DJ kit, you won't need extra venting.
9. belt alignment, if you have issues with cords pulling out of belts or belt heat, then check alignment, it is critical on this sled since belts are twice as much as you are used to spending. Eye ball it so at rest the belt is straight and no dog leg, use a straight edge like a carpenters square. The motor has the ability to creep to the pto side on the motor mounts causing misalignment of belt, so even though it's good now, it may go outta wack over time. Also belt tension is critical to keep it very very tight or you will have clutching problems. It should creep the track when on a stand at idle, but not squeeling tight.
Ummmmm, that's about all you'll need to know other than getting used to a new chassis. ride the heck out of it. Oh, and you won't have any storage, so figure something out like a handle bar bag or aftermarket seat that has storage.
1. Clutching, the stock clutch set up has left a lot on the table. Get a decent clutch kit. And get from C & T powersports a clutch service tool kit. I like the Dynamo Joe clutch kit, there are other good kits out there too, get a popular one that is used for area you ride in. Dj is consistent, it works wonders and is a "set it and forget it" item. Also many high wear items were beefed up by skidoo in 2009, however, you may want to inspect internal clutch components regularily to catch a wear item before it is too late and costs you a bunch of cash. ie rollers, bushings.
2. Rear suspension, it sucks with the stock calibration. many guys, including myself, prefer letting out limiter all the way, loosening front skid shock all the way (just light spring tension) and then upgrading rear springs to next higher ones and running a lower setting on them. Me at 200 lbs i run the heavier springs on setting 2. Also get the shocks revalved by someone that revalves for a living, not your dealer (unless they race and know what they are doing).
3. Skis, switch left one for right one. Don't ask, just do it, makes sidehilling and donuts easier.
4. Sway bar, your preference on this (since you are coming from other side, you will find XP very stable and harder to lay over with its low Center of Gravity), so you may want to add a quick disconnector or remove it altogether. If you remove it then add heavier front springs of 90 lb/inch rating, so less dipping on trails as the stock springs are pretty light and it'll dip on trails very scary at speed, some guys don't care though.
5. Set bars in line with post, although this doesn't look as cool as staight up, it'll help you get a better position on sled to make it handle better, also made steering easier for me.
6. track, the durability sucks. Not really an issue for me in deep snow a lot so far, however, I've seen many fail out there in mtns (hitting stumps and rocks) and the rental shops are seeeing an unreal number of failures, just keep it in mind and watch it for problems. I haven't changed out mine, i'm waiting for an issue to go to the superior Camoplast Challenger Extreme track.
7. remove all underhood foam as well as cut out all the plastic around the tool kit to allow more air. If you add the DJ kit, you won't need extra venting.
9. belt alignment, if you have issues with cords pulling out of belts or belt heat, then check alignment, it is critical on this sled since belts are twice as much as you are used to spending. Eye ball it so at rest the belt is straight and no dog leg, use a straight edge like a carpenters square. The motor has the ability to creep to the pto side on the motor mounts causing misalignment of belt, so even though it's good now, it may go outta wack over time. Also belt tension is critical to keep it very very tight or you will have clutching problems. It should creep the track when on a stand at idle, but not squeeling tight.
Ummmmm, that's about all you'll need to know other than getting used to a new chassis. ride the heck out of it. Oh, and you won't have any storage, so figure something out like a handle bar bag or aftermarket seat that has storage.
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