Then pay up
First Impressions, 800 Etec
- Thread starter nuggetau
- Start date
Then pay up
I'll be riding my Freeride this weekend in the Snowies at 9000 + on the trail and in the powder. Will be the first ride on it.
G
clutching
nuggetau you said u had your 08 XP dialed for clutching? In 08,09,10, and 2011 the factory clutching is crap unless your a drag racer so why not put in your clutch components from your 2008 in your 2011. Clutches r the same, the clutches locations r the same, the horsepower is similar so give it a shot. I think you will have to add more pin weight because it does have more horsepower so that would be good. Clutching is everything on Doo's! If u want to p.m. me i'll give u a clutch setup that rips.
I just can't listen to anymore clutching complaints, the reverse helix sucked last year, the ramps sucked last year, and here we are again this year complaining when they only made a ramp change that still won't work for mountain climbers. GO FIGURE!
nuggetau you said u had your 08 XP dialed for clutching? In 08,09,10, and 2011 the factory clutching is crap unless your a drag racer so why not put in your clutch components from your 2008 in your 2011. Clutches r the same, the clutches locations r the same, the horsepower is similar so give it a shot. I think you will have to add more pin weight because it does have more horsepower so that would be good. Clutching is everything on Doo's! If u want to p.m. me i'll give u a clutch setup that rips.
I just can't listen to anymore clutching complaints, the reverse helix sucked last year, the ramps sucked last year, and here we are again this year complaining when they only made a ramp change that still won't work for mountain climbers. GO FIGURE!
This "Example" information is for anyone curious of chasing out their calibration - Can start off with choosing BRP recommended clicker for the elevation. (#4 for 6k~12k)
Then in the riding area you are at where you need rated rpms the most; take a full throttle run and check rpms - what are they? 7400? 7700? 7600?
Know grams that are installed in the clutch. (BRP installed 12.4g pin + 12mm screw) = 14.1g
As per flyweight law; adjust pinweight to get the rated rpms.
1g = approximate 200 rpms at full throttle.
Example; observed 7600 at full throttle and need 8000
Then reduce pinweight by 2g.
Empty the pinweight down to 12.4g and go retest.
If the flyweight helped to get 7900 but not 8000 then can change out to pin #417222477 10.7g pin and add Qty-1 10mm setscrew to = 12.1g
10.7g pin and add Qty-1 8mm setscrew to = 11.7g
10.7g pin and add Qty-1 6mm setscrew to = 11.4g
Exhaust the current BRP calibration range to get the rpms correct.
Happy tuning
Joey
Then in the riding area you are at where you need rated rpms the most; take a full throttle run and check rpms - what are they? 7400? 7700? 7600?
Know grams that are installed in the clutch. (BRP installed 12.4g pin + 12mm screw) = 14.1g
As per flyweight law; adjust pinweight to get the rated rpms.
1g = approximate 200 rpms at full throttle.
Example; observed 7600 at full throttle and need 8000
Then reduce pinweight by 2g.
Empty the pinweight down to 12.4g and go retest.
If the flyweight helped to get 7900 but not 8000 then can change out to pin #417222477 10.7g pin and add Qty-1 10mm setscrew to = 12.1g
10.7g pin and add Qty-1 8mm setscrew to = 11.7g
10.7g pin and add Qty-1 6mm setscrew to = 11.4g
Exhaust the current BRP calibration range to get the rpms correct.
Happy tuning
Joey
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???????????
P
I hope that the BRP group has been in contact with you and are helping with the problem.
Hope the season gets better!:face-icon-small-hap
W
what does that even mean?? buy a new pc then... none of this is on your hard drive anyway...
X
LIKE ^^^^^^^^
Listen to this guy on pin weight not ski-doo on adjusting clickers all over the place..... then buy his clutch kit. LIKE!!
A poor choice of words, I will no longer post to this thread I started as I can no longer see the latest entries(free memebership). The string is now too long and the free membership will not allow me to see any new entries. I am posting in the blind, I have no idea what the last dozen entries say?
I will start a new string if I achieve any results from removing pin weight.
I will start a new string if I achieve any results from removing pin weight.
For me it's way more than just the money, it's an affront to me personally that you don't pay and support the site that gave you the info on the pin weights. :face-icon-small-ton
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S
.....and pay me for being such a awesome rider.
ya I can also get that same info from another site as well but free. Alan keep us updated on doo..
I made one big mistake, I read the owners manual and substituted what I thought was their superior knowledge for what the belt deflection should be on this sled. The owners manual states 0-2mm above the secondary for belt deflection. I thought that was too loose, but I deferred to what I thought was their better knowledge on the subject. But, that was a major part of the problem.
The last day I rode it, it had snowed about 18" of new, and I had about a 10 miles trail ride in on that new snow, so it would have been a belt heater of a ride if everything was right, but if the belt is slipping then it's no wonder my clutches were hot enough to cook bacon. So, when I finally got to the hill to climb the belt had gotten so hot it had stretched and made things even worse. That's part of the reason the clicker changes had so little effect, and why the sled couldn't climb over a rat turd. It also explains why the engagement is absurdly high (4100). I should have ignored the manual and adjusted it the way I always had on the 08 (put on track stand and adjust until the track begins to crawl, back off a tiny bit and lock it down).
The sled actually climbs pretty good now, better than the 08. The belt deflection is probably closer to 4mm, and drops the engagement down to 3800 where it should be. However I still think the pin weights need to come out.
Here is what I saw today:
7300-7800' elevation
30-36" snow, pretty dry and fluffy with a very thin crust.
Clicker 2-7200-7400rpm before turnout, almost no ground speed.
clicker 3-7500-7600 same as above
clicker 4-7700-7800 same
clicker 5-7900-8000 same
On clicker 5 it will hold where it is supposed to, but over revs (limiter) in the run up to the hill, or if you catch some firm snow or ground. Limiter is noticeable at around 8200, but brp is saying it begins to protect itself over 8000 and begins to cut the power back!
Which is why I'm thinking if I remove the pin weight and move to clicker 4, that would still allow me to pull 8000 without hitting the rev limiter.
As always with the stock clutching it is not all that good at backshift, and recovery is kinda slow but will do it on clicker 5, but nothing lower.
The track speed at turn out (very little ground speed) is 36 on clicker 4, and 38 on clicker 5.
If Skidoo is smart they will issue a technical bulletin advising the setup techs to move the deflection to 4mm and to notify the customers, or I won't be the only one complaining to them about this problem!
It would be a good gesture on Skidoo's part to replace my belt for being their test dummy.
This will be my last post to this string as I can not see any responses. I just wanted to give this one last update.
The last day I rode it, it had snowed about 18" of new, and I had about a 10 miles trail ride in on that new snow, so it would have been a belt heater of a ride if everything was right, but if the belt is slipping then it's no wonder my clutches were hot enough to cook bacon. So, when I finally got to the hill to climb the belt had gotten so hot it had stretched and made things even worse. That's part of the reason the clicker changes had so little effect, and why the sled couldn't climb over a rat turd. It also explains why the engagement is absurdly high (4100). I should have ignored the manual and adjusted it the way I always had on the 08 (put on track stand and adjust until the track begins to crawl, back off a tiny bit and lock it down).
The sled actually climbs pretty good now, better than the 08. The belt deflection is probably closer to 4mm, and drops the engagement down to 3800 where it should be. However I still think the pin weights need to come out.
Here is what I saw today:
7300-7800' elevation
30-36" snow, pretty dry and fluffy with a very thin crust.
Clicker 2-7200-7400rpm before turnout, almost no ground speed.
clicker 3-7500-7600 same as above
clicker 4-7700-7800 same
clicker 5-7900-8000 same
On clicker 5 it will hold where it is supposed to, but over revs (limiter) in the run up to the hill, or if you catch some firm snow or ground. Limiter is noticeable at around 8200, but brp is saying it begins to protect itself over 8000 and begins to cut the power back!
Which is why I'm thinking if I remove the pin weight and move to clicker 4, that would still allow me to pull 8000 without hitting the rev limiter.
As always with the stock clutching it is not all that good at backshift, and recovery is kinda slow but will do it on clicker 5, but nothing lower.
The track speed at turn out (very little ground speed) is 36 on clicker 4, and 38 on clicker 5.
If Skidoo is smart they will issue a technical bulletin advising the setup techs to move the deflection to 4mm and to notify the customers, or I won't be the only one complaining to them about this problem!
It would be a good gesture on Skidoo's part to replace my belt for being their test dummy.
This will be my last post to this string as I can not see any responses. I just wanted to give this one last update.
2
It will be interesting to see what DJ comes up with for a clutch kit for this thing..
Pulls way harder than the 09, 110 miles as of three hours ago.
Ran 45 miles today, and put 3.8 gal of fuel back into it. Road, hill, trail riding.
Every ride, it's using less fuel, and less oil.
Ride is great, I see no darting, and the narrow stance is great in the fluff.
Climbing a rough and tumble hill, the wider stance might be better, but I think its a "get used to it" thing.
Just my opinion, but I think the 11, is a big improvement over the 09 I came off of. Last year (10) rear suspension changes, combined with the 11 front end change make what was good, better.
Yella'
Dont look at 77~7800 as a problem, rather an opportunity.
I believe you are in the correct direction.
Get the clicker back down to #4 so she'll start to push again and adjust pinweight so that you will reveal 8000 rpms at full throttle.
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nuggetau:It also explains why the engagement is absurdly high (4100)
Joe writes:Yeah there is something funny about the etec primary clutch – this is a completely new governor cup and I am suspecting that where the ramp sits in the pocket is at a different position as the previous year models and because of the high engagement for a 160 start spring?.... what the heck is with the 4000+ engagement and a 160/xxx start spring?
Put that violet/white 175/360 spring in the primary and now like 4300 engagement.
in an 08/09 primary with 441's, the 160/xxx start at 3700~3800 and smooth.
the 175 installed and about 3900~4000
Could it be because of the latest bushing materials and how tight the clutch is now on the sliding parts?
or
Could the new governor cup have a different machined area location to mount the ramp so that now the lever when touching the ramp is closer, the lever is closer to the crankshaft center line and thus its like the lever is tucked in forcing the engine to produce more rpms to over come the spring?
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Our 2 e-tecs engage 35-3700 with the stock ramps and 160 spring start. This is with added pin weight so we could get off clicker #1 :face-icon-small-hap....they are no doubt making good power and we have found some nice gains but still not done testing.
Stock clutching Clicker 2-3 on the trail in and 4 for the climbs and holding good rpm's. At 320 kms now and definately faster than the 2008 xp, 2010 cat m8 or 2010 rmk 700. Also outclimbs all of them due to traction. 154 v.s.153 cat and 155 polaris.
Pulled a cord on the belt around 280 km:face-icon-small-sad I hope its just due to min. break in on the belt and no venting.
Can't be happier with performance though. Not especially high track speed on the steep and deep climbs, only about 60-70 kms/hr on 2-3 ft fresh snow but keeps on crawling up the hill.
at 2000 metres above sea level.
Pulled a cord on the belt around 280 km:face-icon-small-sad I hope its just due to min. break in on the belt and no venting.
Can't be happier with performance though. Not especially high track speed on the steep and deep climbs, only about 60-70 kms/hr on 2-3 ft fresh snow but keeps on crawling up the hill.
at 2000 metres above sea level.