TECH TIPS 600/700/800 CFI's Free Mods & Best Bang for the Buck

beefspots said:

so how do i figure where the ratio is set? Just by consumption and then do the math or is there another way?

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Beefspots,

Just keep track of the amounts of oil and gas used @ fill-ups

1 QUART OF OIL/10 GALLONS GAS = 40:1

22 ounces oil/ 10 gallons fuel= 58:1, that's close to what I prefer to run

For quick reference, 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 turns on the 10mm nuts down by the oil pump took my sled from 37:1 to 57:1, so that's quite a change from barely over one full turn.

Hope this helps

Clutch tools

RIGHT TOOL FOR THE RIGHT JOB


TOP= POLARIS LWT Part # PS-47477 identifiable by the LWT 1 1/2" tall letters inscribed (approx .070" of built -in "kick" WHICH IS GENERALLY MORE THAN YOU WANT!!!!!!) for use with TSS-04 LIGHTWEIGHT SECONDARY ONLY (contacts the outside of the secondary) My understanding is that the SPX tool is identical to the above except it is for the TSS-98 Secondary


MIDDLE= SLP part # 20-191 This tool is parallel, "straight" no built-in "kick". For use with roller secondarys fits the TSS-98 PERFECTLY, Will work with TSS-04 requires .100" setback measurement to be factored in with a stack of feeler gauges or vernier caliper.(contacts the outside of the secondary) SLP now has a new tool specific to the TSS-04 to where you don't have to jerk around with measuring .100" back, new for 2010, PART # 20-188 $49.95, TEAM also has tools specific to the TSS-98 and TSS-04.


NEXT TO BOTTOM= SLP part # 20-150 Standard for "Old style" button secondary, Basically EDGE's and older Indy's. 5/8" OFFSET between backside of secondary. This tool is parallel, as in "straight", no built-in "kick" (contacts the backside of the secondary which is somewhat inaccurate as the backside of the secondary "moves" with the width adjustment on the models with externally adjustable width secondarys)


Bottom Hi -Performance Engineering Center to Center Tool, E-Z to fabricate out of a piece of Scrap Aluminum or Steel, cut-out for jackshaft is 1" Exactly, after that 11.5" c/c. After that you do NOT need the additional 1/2" diameter holes shown in the pic, only the 1" horse shoe or 1" round hole cut-out is req'd and then put some black magic marker on the edge of the tool, tap lightly on the crank snout and you'll have your mark, compare that to your 11.5" scribe mark



I've HEARD REPORTS OF SOME TOOLS NOT BEING "STRAIGHT", PROBABLY NOT A BAD IDEA TO CHECK 'EM WITH A STRAIGHT EDGE!!!!!!!



TIPS FOR SLOTTING THE ENGINE BRACKET(S) IF NECESSARY

Here's a tip, if you're going to slot the mag side bracket, first check the air gap at the rear of the secondary to see where it's at.

After that, take the amount you're off by at the secondary and go slightly less than double that "air gap" amount on the slot.

Example, my DRAGON 700 was off by .180". Alignment tool touching the front of the secondary and it had a .180" air gap at the rear.(UGLY!!!!!!)

.180" times 2 = .360" go slightly less, say .320" +/-

Slot the MAG Side going FORWARD approximately .320" and you'll be REAL CLOSE!!!!!

Double check C/C, and if need be, slot BOTH sides an equal amount at that point and you're done.

First time I did this I removed the engine, took about 4 hours, and that's how I prefer to do it.

But for those of you that don't want to mess with all the wiring, fuel lines, anti-freeze draining, etc, I got it down to the Indy Pit Stop Style of unbolting the 4 engine mount bolts and leaving EVERYTHING ELSE in place. Jack up the engine, sticking some 2" x 4" blocks under it and removing ONLY the Mag side bracket, slotting and re-installing. It's a P.I.T.A. this way but for those of you that don't want to mess around with draining the anti-freeze and trying to figure out the wiring, etc, it's an option.

Tech tips cont'd

Sixat38 said:

Great info Kraven. Somewhere around '08 the oil pumps changed. One has a longer arm than the other. The alignment marks for the factory standard/benchmark setting are in different spot also. All that aside the adjustment proceduere with the 10mm nuts Kraven descirbes is the same. Even tho Poo recommencds a special tool (wrench) to loosen/tighten them. They are a bear to get to.

My wifes '08 600 was using oil to the tune of 20:1. When the pump was inspected it had a bur (or something inside, bent shaft maybe) and it would hang up and not return all the way. We decided to replaced the pump. I currently shoot for 3oz of oil per gallon with is right at the 40:1 mark. YMMV.

My Yamaha Viper has a shut off valve on the coolant line to the carbs. The carb heater line if you will. I shut it off the day I got the sled and never looked back. I will be installing a valve in the 600.

Yamaha doesn't recommend opening it until it's 15-20 degrees out side. I have never had a problem and I've ridden well below that. Reason being is the air box temp usually runs about 20 degrees warmer than the OSA temp. I suppose if you were blasting down the trail at 5 degrees outside you may want it on, but usually grinding away in the powder the under hood temps stay up pretty good. Again it's a Yamaha but I'd think most all mfrs would be simlilar.

Good info. Thanks again for the post Kraven.

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Sixat 38,

You're welcome, glad to help out.

Couple of things

1) Regarding that oil pump issue, a few guys on H.C.S. reported similar problems and they were installing return springs onto the oil pump arms.

2) Regarding the coolant shut-off, that came stock on my bud's 2007 Ski-DOO 800 carbed and the owner's manual says to turn it on heat only for dusty/snowy conditions, and not for dry super cold conditions,?????

other than that, this thread was made a "sticky" it's contained in the "INCREASING YOUR IQ" THREAD AT THE TOP OF THIS SECTION


Hope this helps

Tech tips cont'd

jmag215 said:

hey lots of good info on here, wish i new more on how to do this stuff, but i suppose studying and practicing will help out. my question is i have a 07 600 rmk carb model is there any of these steps that i should not do or anything else that you know of that i can do. also is it going to hurt anything if i just quit using the oil injection and start mixing my gas/oil 57:1 with premium. also what does leaving the track loose accomplish. and we usually run at 7000-11000 feet do i need to change my exaust valve springs for higher altitude or anything. thanks again for all the awesome info, wish i had someone to show me how to do this stuff so i could learn more!!!!

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JMAG,

I would keep the oil injection.

On the carbed version the T.P.S. gets set differently, at wide open throttle, 4.0-4.1 volts, same tester.

Usually the high altitude spring is a little lighter tension than the flatlander set-up. Perhaps you can leave the stock set-up in there for now, and plug off the hoses and go from there.

After that you can reference the exhaust spring chart and try one step lighter.

Most of the rest applies.

Any questions, just post or p.m. me, be glad to help out.

PLUGGING THE EXHAUST VALVES

As long as you plug/cap them somehow, it's personal preference. I recommend using a 5/16" diameter stud where the "T" was, just as a simple method and that way it can quickly be returned to stock for warranty purposes if need be.

There's pics on post #32 from Pure Polaris

Monte did a super clean job by tapping the inside of the fittings on the exhaust valves and installing small set screws, VERY clean install.

If you're not sure about doing/trying this, when you're out riding next time, bring a small set of vice grips with you and pinch off the hose and try it for yourself to see if you like it.

Hope this helps

Gotmud said:

First I have to give props to Kraven, awesome thread I've found very helpful.



I've actually thought about doing this before and this is the first time I've read it. My question is, would installing a pipe nipple rather than a plug work better/worse? I find myself wondering if there would be a benefit either way? I'm going to do some experimenting with it this coming weekend, I'm just curious why you say to plug rather than install a nipple?

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Montana Dragon,

The 120* is perfect, mine usually runs 108* in deeper snow. I've been told 2x now (SLP & POLARIS) that below 120* the E.C.U. retards the timing 2* which hurts performance on the 2007 model, that's why they switched the coolant routing on the 2008 model to increase temps. If it stays below 120* for extended periods, you may want to consider the 2008 coolant hoses, only $36.00 +/- for the pair.

If there's a mod I would try to talk you into, it's the PC-3 or PC-5 from DYNOTECH Jim and plugging the exhaust valves. The fuel controller is plug & play, BEST $365.00 Mod , PERIOD!!!! Both are E-Z 10 minute installs

After that CHECK your clutch/engine alignment, it'll take half a day to correct, but the performance gains are worth it. Several guys have p.m.'d me and there's a lot of 2007 models in particular with engines that are "twisted"

montanadragon said:

Great info Kraven! I will how mine runs and then go from there.

I just bought a bone stock except for SLP intake vents, 07 Dragon 700 155 2.4 in track. It handles fantastic when compared to my 1985 Yamaha Phazer, ha. Honestly there is no comparison. Very different sled to ride. Way way better handling. It's going to take a while to get used to it.

He cleared out the top speed counter of 89 MPH. Has anyone here seen what their 700 Dragon's top end is on a the flats with a 155 in track?

Mine runs at 120 degrees max so far in deep snow it that a good coolant temp?

Sorry for asking somewhat stupid questions. I just want to know how it should be running before I change anything.

Thanks

Eric

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T.P.S. TESTER

For those that don't want to build a T.P.S. tester, I just purchased a T.P.S. tester (manufactured by KENT-MOORE / SPX) from my local POLARIS dealer for $48.76

PART # 2201519-A

Comes with the pigtail, 2 plug ends, 5 volt regulator, harness

All you need then is a 9-volt battery and a voltmeter

Works on sleds, ATV's & Rangers

T.P.S. Throttle blade synchronization

T.P.S. Throttle blade synchronization

To adjust the throttle plate synchronization follow these steps;

1) Perform the T.P.S. Baseline Adjustment. The T.P.S. must be set to specification.

2) Carefully back the synchronization screw out so it no longer touches the tab, but do not remove the screw or the spring.

3) Verify the T.P.S. voltage is set to 0.70 volts +/- .01 volts. If it is not re-perform the baseline adjustment.

4) Slowly turn the synchronization screw inwards until the instant the voltage on the meter changes. Back the screw out so the voltage reads 0.70 volts +/- .01 volts

Hope this helps

STATOR TESTING SPECS 2007-2008 800, 700 & 600 CFI

Real E-Z to do, here's the specs for testing the stator:

Test the wires coming from the stator (+/- 15% at 20* C) w/sled cold, then repeat when warm:

For the 2007 700/600 CFI:

Test the wires coming from the stator w/sled cold, then repeat when warm:

1) YELLOW to YELLOW 0.13 OHMS

2) GREEN/RED to GREEN/YELLOW 15 OHMS

3) GREEN/RED to BROWN/WHITE 30 ohms

4) BLUE/YELLOW to BLUE/YELLOW 2.4 ohms

5) WHITE/RED to WHITE 190 ohms

6) WHITE/GREEN to GREEN 190 ohms

7) BROWN /WHITE to GROUND 0 ohms

8) BROWN to GROUND 0 ohms


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For the 2008 600cfi/700/800 CFI's

1) YELLOW to YELLOW 0.13 OHMS

2) DARK GREEN/RED to GREEN/YELLOW 15 OHMS

3) DARK GREEN/RED to BROWN/WHITE 30 ohms

4) DARK BLUE/YELLOW to BLUE/YELLOW 2.4 ohms

5) WHITE/RED to WHITE 190 ohms

6) WHITE/DARK GREEN to DARK GREEN 190 ohms

7) BROWN /WHITE to GROUND 0 ohms

8) BROWN to GROUND 0 ohms


+/- 15% at 20* C


THESE SPECS DO NOT APPLY TO THE 600 CARB MODELS


Hope this helps