pro wiring harness preventive maintainence, time to pull the hood and get to wrapping

thought i'd start this thread to address this problem before tons of peeps start having failures. if you've taken your panels and hood off i'm sure one of the first things you noticed was all the wires that are unprotected, left hanging or routed so that they are rubbing to the point of shorting out. will post the problem areas i have found and if you have some please post them up, don't think one person could find all the points, there are many.

first is on the pro, the control switches in front of the gas cap, the wiring for this goes straight into the steering stem mount, mine had already wore a bare spot to the high beam. i bent the wiring coming out towards the rear and zip tied the harness to the fuel line on the fuel pump. you will have to remove the cowel to tape up the unprotected wires, two push pins and then the large nut around the gas cap removes it.

next spark plug wires. mine were zip tied together where one wire had the protective cover and below the cover on the second, this has rubbed the wire almost in half on the left side. the right side plug wire was routed over the water hose that goes into the top of the head, it had almost rubbed through on the clamp for the hose and the bolt on the aluminum fitting for the hose. these wires are molded to the coil, so coil and wire have to be replaced. reroute and protect wires where necessary. would suggest loom from coil to plug cap.

next power wiring for the coils. these are not protected for the last 3-4 inches, my left side coil had a spot rubbed bare on the red wire. caused from it rubbing on one of the coil mounting bolts. the adjoining white wire was almost bare. you could see where it had been arcing at the bare spot, also at the plastic plug connector for the wiring. taped all exposed wiring and rerouted away from mounting bolts. was just thinking maybe flipping the mounting bolts for the coils upsidedown so the extra exposed threads are not there to rub on. will have to check for clearance on this one.

next tps connection, they have zip tied the harness to where the wiring plugs into the tps itself. on mine the zip tie had fallen or was placed right at the bottom of the top half of the plug so it was not able to sit flush in the connection. remove zip tie, completely seat tps plug connection, relocate wiring harness zip tie.

next ecm wiring plug. this is located behind the oil res. bottle. the connection is very hard to get to "click" together and takes quite a bit of force. give the connection a good tug, if it comes apart makes sure the protective sealing boot on plug is straight and then replace into connection until you hear it "click"

next tapeing and protecting all exposed wires. this is quite a little project, seems at almost every connection there is 2-4 inches of unprotected wires. all these need to be wrapped for protection. every one is a short waiting to happen!!! i just started over by the oil res. bottle and worked my way around to the other side. also added zip ties where necessary to keep harness from rubbing in as many places as possible.

next the infamous oil injection line. the line from the res. bottle to the pump rubs on the aluminum plate. zip tie so bend is off aluminum.

if you have any other problem areas please post them up and how you cured the problem. this sled is awesome but i can see now that peeps are starting to get some miles on them these shorts are gonna start to cause several different problems. many can be avoided by a little preventive maintainence. i always say a few minutes of maintainence will save you hours of being broke down on the hill!!!

went up to my dealer today and got replacement parts. my sled production date is 7-19, i robbed my new coils off a standard rmk that had a production date of 10-20. the wiring on this sled was routed differently in a couple of areas and also seemed to have less wiring exposed. maybe as the production went along they figured out some of the problem areas and did start to reroute some of the wiring? or maybe it just depends on what shift or who was working when your sled went through?

i did flip the bottom coil mounting bolts so the threads are facing down, they put a plastic cap over the top mounting bolts and have a protective sheave over the wires coming out of the top of the coils. obviously some had problems on the protos and thats how the top bolts got the rubber cap.

will be keeping a close eye on mine and post any other problem areas i find that need to be addressed.

more updates:

one of the wiring plugs over by the clutch cover does not have a lock and can easily wiggle apart. it is a 5 wire connector and the wires going in and out of it are yellow, it is a white plastic plug, would suggest making sure it is seated and then tape/zip tie it together.

powervalve base gaskets, the right one on mine has blown out, bolts on both powervalves were hand tight at best. would look for oil around the base gaskets and check for tightness. am wondering if this is part of the bog problem...

was mentioned before, the wiring for the left injector splits from the wiring harness near where the right one plugs in. it then wraps under the right bolt that is there to hold on the fuel rail. at this bolt my left side wiring has rubbed through the sheath and rubbed the wires. repair and reroute injector wiring.

the plug for the powervalve activation solenoid and another were zipped tied together soooo tight it was bending the flat 3 wire connector almost in a U, had dug a pretty good groove into it also. remove and relocate zip tie.

here is a pic of the powervalve, you can see the oil all around the base where the gasket has blown. if you see oil here its time to do some maintainence!!! to remove the left side powervalve i had to remove the plastic cap off the valve and then unbolt the steering stem that sits in front of it to get clearance to remove it.




this is where i unbolted the steering for clearance, coil bolts flipped, wiring wrapped and secured!!!



power valve removed, don't forget to clean them before you reinstall them!!! i use the wire wheel on my bench grinder to remove the carbon build up and then remove the sludge with a rag and some gas. give them a good coating of injector oil before you reinstall them...

all good points, never noticed any type of coating on the valves but there could be. there was very little build up on mine and just had to buff a spot here and there. looked the same as my M and they were not coated. never thought to mention cleaning all the rest, been doing these for so long it just goes with the job

there was one thing i was wondering about on the bellows is there any one thing best to clean the rubber surface with??? none of the dirt bikes, quads, sleds i've owned have had them, they've either been mechanical or wire operated.

just thought i'd mention the first thing i do when i pull my hood is cover the intake. have seen many problems from stuck throttles to catastrophic engine failure due to debris falling down the intake while exposed!!!