SLP / Carls stage 3 kits

dktraw · Dec 26, 2017

Im struggling to get peak rpm and looking for some input. the two kits are the same except carls sells you there clutching and slp sells you theres. also carls includes the Bully Dog tuner for above 5k feet. I bought my setup from carls, got there kit for 6-8k feet elevation and it came with Bully Dog tuner with Carls custom tune. Im running Carls clutching with 62-42.40/60-40.40 helix and stock secondary spring with the roller bearing. primary is stock spring with EPI 66gram weights. Both springs are new, and belt only has 1-200 miles on it. SLP recommends 83-8450rpm for there pipes power....I don't see over 8100. On flat ground if I hold it WFO for long enough it will climb to 8200. Track speed while climbing really isn't anything to brag about either....only about 34-36 mph. Seems kinda silly to throw the 64gram stock weights back in it just to get rpm since completely bone stock machine will spin the 64s to 8150-8200??? just doesn't seem like much gain for $2000:face-icon-small-dis
What are you guys setups with these kits, and what are you seeing for rpm? track speed?

My sled is a 2017 Axys 800 155 2.6 with stock belt drive gearing. running 91 non-ethanol fuel with ECU set for that. Have just under 1k miles on machine, stage 3 kit was new this yr. Belt deflection is good, clutches all cleaned, track tension correct

sorry for kinda long post but wanted to get as much setup, and sled information as possible up front.

revrider07 · Dec 26, 2017

Stock sled with a baseline to compare the two set ups. Is springs the same? The weights are also different. When gaining only a few mph it's hard to tell by seat of pants. For 2000 $ more you would have seen a difference with a hairdryer.

dktraw · Dec 26, 2017

clutching setup was all the same before installing the stage 3. the only thing I changed was the 66g EPI weights instead of the 64g EPI. it would run 8150 pretty consistently and about the same track speed. And yes, a hairdryer would have definitely been noticeable!!....just wasn't in the budget....all though this stage 3 kit might have just been a waste of the budget!

revrider07 · Dec 26, 2017

Lighten the weights up and get into the peak power of the pipe and see where it goes from there. Kelsey at rkt has some info on lighter weight and more power and track speeds on his website an interesting read for sure.

SRXSRULE · Dec 26, 2017

You dont want to hear this, but anything more then just adding a pipe to these sleds is a waste of money..... Unless you add boost.

Hows the tune? What do the plugs look like? Maybe your just too rich with the bullydog.

dktraw · Dec 26, 2017

I had just the pipe last yr on my 2016 and was very very disappointed in that setup. so this yr I thought I would try the stage 3. I honestly never looked at my plugs yet when out on the mountain, the tune seems to run nice, clean and crisp throttle response, just doesn't pull on the upper end.
thanks for response

SRXSRULE · Dec 26, 2017

dktraw said:
I had just the pipe last yr on my 2016 and was very very disappointed in that setup. so this yr I thought I would try the stage 3. I honestly never looked at my plugs yet when out on the mountain, the tune seems to run nice, clean and crisp throttle response, just doesn't pull on the upper end.
thanks for response

Thats interesting, My 16 with just an SLP pipe was a ripper! I had to go up to 68gram weights riding at 8-10,000 ft and it would still turn 8300. Same results with several others I ride with.

Same set-up on my 17 was not as strong.

dktraw · Dec 26, 2017

Wish my 16 (and 17 now for that matter) would have ran that good. No matter what clutch setup i tried it wouldn't run over 8200. Even with 62gram weights.

Murph · Dec 27, 2017

dktraw said:
My sled is a 2017 Axys 800 155 2.6 with stock belt drive gearing. running 91 non-ethanol fuel with ECU set for that. Have just under 1k miles on machine, stage 3 kit was new this yr. Belt deflection is good, clutches all cleaned, track tension correct

sorry for kinda long post but wanted to get as much setup, and sled information as possible up front.

Have you swapped out motor mount rubber and torque arm rubber yet? At 1000 miles,yours are probably shot. One symptom of worn mount rubbers is you decrease weight substantially and rpm doesn’t increase.

HiWaYman92 · Dec 27, 2017

For reference, I’m running a 17 163 2.6, and with stage 2 I’m pulling 8150-8250 with 10-64’s, Pro QD gears, blue/pink and black/purple with stock helix at 8-10k. My next step is to try the stock primary spring and 10-62’s again to pull proper RPM. Everybody says to add 2 grams with stage 2, but I’m just not pulling it. 62’s are what my sled pulls stock, so I guess the added power of the pipe equates to adding 2-300 rpm rather than 200-300 rpm and 2 grams heavier weight? 315 miles on my sled so far.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

dktraw · Dec 27, 2017

No i have not replaced mounts yet, with stock setup the sled pulls 8150-8200. Bolted the stage 3 on and increased weights to 66g and rpm actually dropped to 8100. Im not fully convinced its something wrong with the sled since it runs pretty good stock. Im really just curios if anyone has actually seen these "clutch kits" actually work with a stage tuning option? Feel like there kinda a one size fits all kinda thing and not really dialed in for each application

dktraw · Dec 27, 2017

So far on my sleds i agree on not pulling anymore weight tjan stock. Havent seen it yet. And atleast on my 2016 last yr, the black/purple sec spring was actually worse than the stock spring i thought. Im putting my 64s back in for tomorrow's ride and hopefully it will put it in the pipes power band.

QUOTE=HiWaYman92;4114886]For reference, I’m running a 17 163 2.6, and with stage 2 I’m pulling 8150-8250 with 10-64’s, Pro QD gears, blue/pink and black/purple with stock helix at 8-10k. My next step is to try the stock primary spring and 10-62’s again to pull proper RPM. Everybody says to add 2 grams with stage 2, but I’m just not pulling it. 62’s are what my sled pulls stock, so I guess the added power of the pipe equates to adding 2-300 rpm rather than 200-300 rpm and 2 grams heavier weight? 315 miles on my sled so far.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]

bobback · Dec 27, 2017

IMO - sounds like a lot of headache to try to get 100 rpm more out of a sled. And really is the average rider going to notice the difference?

I have a 17 Axys with only a can, riding about 9000 feet give or take; and some days I see 8300 and some days less based on snow conditions.

Wait I do have some venting and the blow hole.

This sucker rips for basically a stock sled!

hudini · Dec 27, 2017

I wouldn't keep chasing 100 R's if the sled runs well. If it's not bogging, pipe surging, etc. then pull the rope and ride.

If you are chasing these R's because you feel you should have more power than you do...I would consider that you have all the power out of your sled you are going to get with these parts installed, especially at elevation.

If you are expecting more power than you have with the combo, sell your new parts, save some coin and install a turbo b/c your never going to get turbo power out of N/A motors especially at elevation.

dktraw · Dec 27, 2017

Appreciate the input guys but heres my holdup, SLP recommends 8300-8450rpm. Im only spinning 8100 in marginal snow, probably means i will only be turning 8000 in deep heavy snow. So really im not chasing just 100rpm, more like 3-400....how is that ok? And not worth trying to get to peak rpm? If the stage 3 doesnt truly perform as it should, how can i feel good about selling it to someone else?

jim · Dec 27, 2017

Carls is known to port and set-up secondary for lower rpm w/ big mid loading...they like to load the motor with helix. So, the clutching may not match the motor mods..especially with the secondary. If it was me, I'd put stock clutching back in and see if rpms go up accordingly...might put you right where you want to be with 8300 range RPMs. More than once, I've gotten a pipe or port mods and mostly left stock cluching alone and watched the rpms climb into the core of the pipe or porting mods and it worked great. At least you'll have a baseline. You may very well be hitting a wall at 8100 with Carl's cluching set-up...which is maybe what they wanted for what they do?

Griff · Dec 27, 2017

dktraw said:
Appreciate the input guys but heres my holdup, SLP recommends 8300-8450rpm. Im only spinning 8100 in marginal snow, probably means i will only be turning 8000 in deep heavy snow. So really im not chasing just 100rpm, more like 3-400....how is that ok? And not worth trying to get to peak rpm? If the stage 3 doesnt truly perform as it should, how can i feel good about selling it to someone else?

I agree. Strive for the best performance possible. There is a noticeable difference between an ok set up sled and one that is set up just right. Let us know how you come out.

Griff · Dec 27, 2017

dktraw said:
Appreciate the input guys but heres my holdup, SLP recommends 8300-8450rpm. Im only spinning 8100 in marginal snow, probably means i will only be turning 8000 in deep heavy snow. So really im not chasing just 100rpm, more like 3-400....how is that ok? And not worth trying to get to peak rpm? If the stage 3 doesnt truly perform as it should, how can i feel good about selling it to someone else?

I agree. Strive for the best performance possible. There is a noticeable difference between an ok set up sled and one that is set up just right. Let us know how you come out.

Angermangement890 · Dec 27, 2017

What setting is the Helix on, the 42* finish or the 40* finish? I would ensure your on the 40* finish angle, have you checked primary rollers and primary in general for worn/binding parts?

dktraw · Dec 27, 2017

Im currently on the 42 angle per carls instructions. I will probably take time tomorrow when on the mountain to swap it over to the 40 angle for a comparison.

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