New/reman. cylinders

diamonddave · Feb 4, 2018

Ryan, I'd highly recommend a MTNTK fix kit rather than Weisco replacements.

I would also highly recommend having those injectors either ultrasonic cleaned and flow tested or replace with new. The location of the injectors lend themselves to excessive and premature carbon deposits. (Premature when compared to other Fuel Injection designs, excessive due to design and location). BRP learned this a long time ago.

I know you may be a on a budget but I prefer a new Polaris mono-block for 2012 and earlier if I'm replacing one. A replacement reman monoblock has had the cylinder skirts loaded and stressed during it's life cycle. Also, these cylinders will hour glass and sometimes crack the very small surface area between the exhaust ports.

Some recommend going with the '13 mono to get the thicker cylinder skirt and either machining the upper case to accept or replace the upper case. If I have a new '12 mono or very low mile and a fix kit, I don't feel it's necessary.

RoostinRyan · Feb 4, 2018

I already ordered my top end kit. I thought about a fix kit but have heard mixed reviews. I just try to rebuild the top end every season like I do my bikes. Haven't had a top end issue yet doing this and it's fairly inexpensive. Found my cylinder is good and my crank lost a bearing. I suppose while it's apart I can flow test the injectors since I'll be waiting for parts. Thanks for the tip!

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RoostinRyan · Feb 4, 2018

Locked up pto bearing

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richracer1 · Feb 4, 2018

I would also suggest sending the crank off to have it checked out and trued. I know SLP does this, probably Indy Specialties as well.

I know this is the Pro-Ride section, but I had the crank from my '16 Pro-RMK trued, it runs much smoother now...SLP found it a little high in the middle.

XCaSSAULT · Feb 4, 2018

Just out of curiosity do u remove the drive clutch a lot with a impact?
Not trying to start a debate but I always try not to but find myself doing it from time to time. Some say it’s harmless, others say otherwise.

I’d consider sending new crank and case halves to a place like Indy specialty’s as I don’t know from personal experience but I’ve read how important it is on these 800 to have the proper crank to crankcase clearance. That’s why the 01-07 800’s had such bad crank problems that where covered up by double bearing kits. When all alone it was shotty quality control upon assembly. 08-present got better but it’s still a factor.

RoostinRyan · Feb 4, 2018

XCaSSAULT said:
Just out of curiosity do u remove the drive clutch a lot with a impact?
Not trying to start a debate but I always try not to but find myself doing it from time to time. Some say it’s harmless, others say otherwise.

I’d consider sending new crank and case halves to a place like Indy specialty’s as I don’t know from personal experience but I’ve read how important it is on these 800 to have the proper crank to crankcase clearance. That’s why the 01-07 800’s had such bad crank problems that where covered up by double bearing kits. When all alone it was shotty quality control upon assembly. 08-present got better but it’s still a factor.

I don't think I've ever used an impact to remove the clutch but I do remove it several times a season. For the rest of the season I'm gonna run this crank/crankcase with new bearings. I am a tech in a big machine shop so I have some capabilities. This summer I'll pull it again and send it to fastrax and get a new crank put in and a couple modifications to the motor as well. With any luck it'll blow up again this season and I'll have to buy that long rod motor I've been wanting

.

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peaceofwork · Feb 4, 2018

XCaSSAULT said:
Book calls for .0047-.0057 sidewall and .017-.025 ring gap.
With forged pistons I try to aim for the high end of that, closer to .0057 and at least .022 ring.

Then I like to do at least 3 heat cycles of 120 degrees with 5-6hours of cool down for heat soak. After that it’s 50 miles of hard ditch bangin with a lot of varied throttle/no consistent throttle and half a tank of pre-mix 50:1

Then when u know the oil in the oil tank is going down as referenced by my pencil mark I consider it broke-in

I have read the book but I was asking Ryan what specs he's running with his Weisco Pistons. The Polaris specs VS what Weisco calls for and wondering what Ryan goes with when he's using Weisco forged Pistons.

RoostinRyan · Feb 5, 2018

peaceofwork said:
I have read the book but I was asking Ryan what specs he's running with his Weisco Pistons. The Polaris specs VS what Weisco calls for and wondering what Ryan goes with when he's using Weisco forged Pistons.

According to my notes I went with .0055" for cylinder wall clearance and 20mm ring end gap. I just received my top end kit and shows to use a clearance of .0049". If I remember correctly, the last time I talked to Wiseco tech support they mentioned book specs should be just fine just to make sure it is warmed up and saturated with heat before "ripping across acrossed a lake." lol.

peaceofwork · Feb 5, 2018

Thanks I like to compare what I run for specs compared to others with Weisco forged Pistons,
My personal 12 pro 800 has been running strong on Weisco,s for a year but I forget the specs on that well used monoblock .

RoostinRyan · Feb 5, 2018

I think I have an oil issue with that side. It got hot enough to melt the bb's.

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XCaSSAULT · Feb 5, 2018

Is that rust in there?

RoostinRyan · Feb 5, 2018

XCaSSAULT said:
Is that rust in there?

Yeah it is. I'm not exactly sure what happened

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XCaSSAULT · Feb 6, 2018

Synthetic oil happend. Synthetic oil doesn’t stick to bearings for long periods it runs off. Not good for storage. Especially if u store outdoors or in a uninsulated shed with a concrete or dirt floor.

The constantly changing temperature creates condensation in the motor and under the hood.

Oil down the cylinders for storage isn’t enough to combat this even fogging isn’t adequate in my experience. Best thing to do is start the sled once a month.

RoostinRyan · Feb 6, 2018

XCaSSAULT said:
Synthetic oil happend. Synthetic oil doesn’t stick to bearings for long periods it runs off. Not good for storage. Especially if u store outdoors or in a uninsulated shed with a concrete or dirt floor.

The constantly changing temperature creates condensation in the motor and under the hood.

Oil down the cylinders for storage isn’t enough to combat this even fogging isn’t adequate in my experience. Best thing to do is start the sled once a month.

Ironically, up until this year I've been running a synthetic blend. I've never had any problems with it. Since I've switched to a full synthetic I've had multiple issues with power valves sticking and now this. It may not be related but who knows. Maybe I should stick with what I know. I think I might switch back. I do leave my sleds under a carport outside so this makes a lot of sense.

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RoostinRyan · Feb 15, 2018

Got it back together and ready to roll this weekend. Thanks for the help everyone!

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peaceofwork · Feb 18, 2018

Ryan is it ripping around as good as ever now or are you taking it easy on it for the first bit of running?
While you had the down time did you go through the clutch and get it balanced ?

RoostinRyan · Feb 18, 2018

peaceofwork said:
Ryan is it ripping around as good as ever now or are you taking it easy on it for the first bit of running?
While you had the down time did you go through the clutch and get it balanced ?

Oh yeah. Night and day better. Didn't miss a beat all day today. I've been riding it like I normally would with the exception of trying not to hold it wide open for too long.

While it was down I tore down the clutch and replaced buttons that were out of spec and installed slp's mtx weights. I think I went a bit heavy so I'll make an adjustment before next ride. I totally should have sent it out to be balanced while it was down. I didn't even think about it but I have a on call weekend coming up and will probably do it then.

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94fordguy · Feb 19, 2018

ryanlinger said:
Oh yeah. Night and day better. Didn't miss a beat all day today. I've been riding it like I normally would with the exception of trying not to hold it wide open for too long.

While it was down I tore down the clutch and replaced buttons that were out of spec and installed slp's mtx weights. I think I went a bit heavy so I'll make an adjustment before next ride. I totally should have sent it out to be balanced while it was down. I didn't even think about it but I have a on call weekend coming up and will probably do it then.

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Glad to hear you got it solved. I'm SOOOOO much happier with the new fuel map I loaded into mine, it didn't miss a beat all day! You have no idea how satisfied I am feeling saying goodbye to that ^&$%@W$#@% bog!

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