CRANK'N my 06 900

Clarke673 · Jan 13, 2008

Hay indydan. I just bought a 05 rmk with a 06 900 engine in it. The sled has, SLP airbox, vents galore, SLP head, pipe, can, V-force 3 reads, big wheel kit, E.T.C.

I have an engine code SERuCE coming up and if you or mountain horse know what it is or ware to find out what it is, that would be great!

I always dress before i go so when i get to the mountains i unload my sled, start it, throw on my gloves, jacket, and helmet. Then i throw some 50/50 mix of blue marble synthetic and some petroleum additive. I don't know, i got it from a dealer in west that sold me a 06 700 ram and they said they had good luck with it. I keep the sled running as i put the oil in and i usually let it set a few minuets after words. Then i run around the parking lot a few times to make sure every thing is running good and nothing is wrong. Then i sit there and wait for every one else to get dressed and unload. Would you recommend this worm up? Its not like once we get going the first thing i do is climb a hill at full throttle for 3 minutes. Usually i ride down the trail for 3-5 miles before i highmark everything.

Is this an ok worm up?

And i can order any oil i want through my dads shop so what is the exact oil you use in your sled? And how often do you clean the valves?

I know i ask allot, but one more

My dads 700 with a stock pipe and a HPS can sounds 10 times better then my 900 with slp pipe and can, is that mostly because of the pipe or if i switch do you think it would change anything? My dealer gave me about 50 HPS decals so i want to use em :light:

indydan · Jan 14, 2008

Warm-up

I_OWN_U said:
Hay indydan. I just bought a 05 rmk with a 06 900 engine in it. The sled has, SLP airbox, vents galore, SLP head, pipe, can, V-force 3 reads, big wheel kit, E.T.C.

I have an engine code SERuCE coming up and if you or mountain horse know what it is or ware to find out what it is, that would be great!

I always dress before i go so when i get to the mountains i unload my sled, start it, throw on my gloves, jacket, and helmet. Then i throw some 50/50 mix of blue marble synthetic and some petroleum additive. I don't know, i got it from a dealer in west that sold me a 06 700 ram and they said they had good luck with it. I keep the sled running as i put the oil in and i usually let it set a few minuets after words. Then i run around the parking lot a few times to make sure every thing is running good and nothing is wrong. Then i sit there and wait for every one else to get dressed and unload. Would you recommend this worm up? Its not like once we get going the first thing i do is climb a hill at full throttle for 3 minutes. Usually i ride down the trail for 3-5 miles before i highmark everything.

Is this an ok worm up?

And i can order any oil i want through my dads shop so what is the exact oil you use in your sled? And how often do you clean the valves?

I know i ask allot, but one more My dads 700 with a stock pipe and a HPS can sounds 10 times better then my 900 with slp pipe and can, is that mostly because of the pipe or if i switch do you think it would change anything? My dealer gave me about 50 HPS decals so i want to use em :light:

That sounds like a close to perfect warm-up.

I wanted to be extreme in my explaination, and paint a mental picture of what goes on in these little Horse Power packed motors.

Pound for pound these motors are not far off of a Nascar motor right out of the box

an average 2 stroke 800/900 motors weights 110 to 120 pounds complete with everything and they put out 130 to 150 HP in stock form.

that is very close to a Nascar motor hp to weight ratio. and a Nascar NEVER runs in a cold enviornment like a sled motor does and you see plenty of them hatch right on the track.

Imagin the BEST people in the world building them and at a cost starting at ( guess ) 30K on up a piece.

I would guess a small block 350 chev to weigh about 500+ pounds fully dressed with intake and exhaust.

I run have run Castrol oil and Klotz for 20 + years, I made a short switch in my 2003 Vertical Escape to Red Line Racing oil only to find the first time I took it apart the crank was all rusty.

I never saw this with Klotz, BUT I heard thru the grape vine that Klotz was switching its base stock to the same as AMSOIL ( I don't have a clue if this is true or not ) but I didn't take any chances I went back to Castrol Oil in everything.

Castrol, - Old Polaris Blue, - Old Cat Green - are all about the same oils give or take a few additives and color dies here and there.

indydan · Jan 14, 2008

Crank Temp

Long idling is not the answer, depending on how tight your belt is it can shorten belt life and put a wear mark on the drive clutch sheave so alot of this is understanding your machine.

Its normally best to use a stand and slowy spin the track and move the engine speed around. once done moving the track shut it off and let the heat move into the crank .

Cranks are tuff to heat up idling or running on a stand, Driving them on the trail taking it easy it the fastest way to get heat into the crank.

Sled cranks are extremely strong when they are warm and are snug in the case.

When they are below zero and floating in the case it doesn't take much to hurt them just alittle and once they are knocked out of tru they tear themselves apart.

Beels · Jan 14, 2008

Interesting read Dan...

The whole oil thing has me scratching my head. I've been using synthetic oils for quite a while now, and haven't had any rust issues. I started out with the Shell Advance Snow Ultra syn. until the price got stupid on it, and went to Amsoil Interceptor syn. 3 years ago. Not disputing what you're finding, because you'll see more motors in a week than I have in my life. Are your concerns with synthetics purely based on storage, or other issues? We don't get the constant humidity up here in the northern prairies like you'll get in MN and many other places in the US.

I fully trust your judgement and I'm basing my oil buying decisions on it.

snowmanx · Jan 14, 2008

Walmart super-tech???

indydan said:
Castrol, - Old Polaris Blue, - Old Cat Green - are all about the same oils give or take a few additives and color dies here and there.

How about it??? Walmart supertech, I bought some in a pinch and was impressed with it(which doesnt say much) what do you think and thanks for your opinion!

indydan · Jan 14, 2008

Beels said:
Interesting read Dan...

The whole oil thing has me scratching my head. I've been using synthetic oils for quite a while now, and haven't had any rust issues. I started out with the Shell Advance Snow Ultra syn. until the price got stupid on it, and went to Amsoil Interceptor syn. 3 years ago. Not disputing what you're finding, because you'll see more motors in a week than I have in my life. Are your concerns with synthetics purely based on storage, or other issues? We don't get the constant humidity up here in the northern prairies like you'll get in MN and many other places in the US.

I fully trust your judgement and I'm basing my oil buying decisions on it.

Beels, There are lots of reasons.

Just a few:

I don't like it becasue its hard on seals and oil pumps.

And I see more rod failures with synthetics then ever before WAY MORE, And I believe it doesn't mix as well with the fuel as the petroleum does.

The rust is the least of the problems.

Beels I truely believe that the OLD petroleum did a better job lubricating.

It maybe alittle dirtier but cleaning Exh valves is easy.

Spaarky · Jan 14, 2008

Frig, wish I had enough sled sense to sort out the finer details of this thread... looks like I will be on the phone all night sorting it out.....

TTTWWWWWWWWIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIISSSSSSSSSSTTTTTTTER, sure hope you are home now....

shortstop20 · Jan 14, 2008

So is there only one kind of Castrol 2 stroke mineral(petroleum) oil? Or do I need to buy a certain one?

Does the belt to sheave clearance need to be checked even when switching from say Polaris 10-66 weights to 10-64 weights and vice versa? I use 10-62, 10-64, 10-66 and 10-68 weights. I have all these different sizes because I ride many different elevations during the year.

snowmanx · Jan 14, 2008

Belt to sheave tolerance

shortstop20 said:
So is there only one kind of Castrol 2 stroke mineral(petroleum) oil? Or do I need to buy a certain one?

Does the belt to sheave clearance need to be checked even when switching from say Polaris 10-66 weights to 10-64 weights and vice versa? I use 10-62, 10-64, 10-66 and 10-68 weights. I have all these different sizes because I ride many different elevations during the year.

What do you recommend on the belt to sheave clearance?

indydan · Jan 14, 2008

Oil & Belt clearance.

The Cheap Castrol Oil _ Green bottle its about $16 to $20 per gallon.

All New Polaris weights sit on the same heel pad Shimming is fine with all them.

Clearance to a new polaris belt Zero to .010

I shim my own to Zero and then I do not let it idle until I have broke the belt in and wore the sides in just a touch then there perfect.

Beels · Jan 14, 2008

Thanks again Dan!

Nolimits · Jan 14, 2008

Alot of good info on this thread Dan, You will definatly get my business if my motor ever goes south. Thanks for the good read!

actionfigurejoe · Jan 14, 2008

I use Citgo Sea and Snow. (yeah, yeah.....I know about Hugo). I pick it up at Fleet Farm for $8 per gallon. It mineral based and JASO FC certified. Currently in my 660HO for over 1500 miles. No doubt it's dirtier than synthetic but I have zero blow by and no rusty cranks. I'm with Dan on this one. Every crank that's blew on the sleds I've owned were gulping synthetic. Each failure came at the beginning of each season. Rust, rust, rust. And yes, I did fog the motor. I never lost a crank on a motor that drank mineral oil.

BIGGDAWG · Jan 14, 2008

So dan what about walmart tech 2000 oil. it is tcw-3 rated?

sodfarmer · Jan 14, 2008

Thanks for all the good info on here. Dan are you saying that the Polaris blue oil I can get from the dealer right now is the stuff to use? I have a 2000 700 rmk that is just being put together, and I want it to run for a long time.

Thanks for your help.

indydan · Jan 15, 2008

Citgo Sea & Snow

actionfigurejoe said:
I use Citgo Sea and Snow. (yeah, yeah.....I know about Hugo). I pick it up at Fleet Farm for $8 per gallon. It mineral based and JASO FC certified. Currently in my 660HO for over 1500 miles. No doubt it's dirtier than synthetic but I have zero blow by and no rusty cranks. I'm with Dan on this one. Every crank that's blew on the sleds I've owned were gulping synthetic. Each failure came at the beginning of each season. Rust, rust, rust. And yes, I did fog the motor. I never lost a crank on a motor that drank mineral oil.

Greg, that would make a great amsoil commerial!!!!

Amsoil is at the absolute bottom of my list. ( Hard to believe we can get better Oil from Hugo's fat a$$ then we can from all these synthetics.

That Wallmart oil will be fine!!!!!!!! Put it this way............you would be hard press to find a Petrolem based oil that won't work just great. just pick an oil brand and try and stick to it so you get accurate data back from your motor.

900RMKRidgerunner · Jan 15, 2008

Dan, Just so this is clear to me.... I'm a little slow some times.... All of this information is applicable to my 900 VES engine. The reason I ask, Its been drilled into my head since day one when I picked it up, you can only use VES oil on my sled....

I have been running Polaris VES II in my 900 RMK and my wifes 380F ski-doo for the last couple years. I want to make sure I can run one oil in both sleds. I was told many many times that I could run the VES in my wifes sled but I couldnt run Non VES oil in my sled. Is it just a way to get me to pay more?

indydan · Jan 15, 2008

900RMKRidgerunner said:
Dan, Just so this is clear to me.... I'm a little slow some times.... All of this information is applicable to my 900 VES engine. The reason I ask, Its been drilled into my head since day one when I picked it up, you can only use VES oil on my sled....

I have been running Polaris VES II in my 900 RMK and my wifes 380F ski-doo for the last couple years. I want to make sure I can run one oil in both sleds. I was told many many times that I could run the VES in my wifes sled but I couldnt run Non VES oil in my sled. Is it just a way to get me to pay more?

They can't tell you what oil to run and they CAN'T VOID your warranty because you run better oil.

We have run full mod motors with NOS turning RPM"s past the 9000 rpm mark with the good old fashion oil, I would think of trying that with VES GOLD.

If your worried about your dealer seeing another collor in the oil lines and hanging you out to dry ( Becasue they think its oil related ) by all means don't change.

Put it this way.............. There is more connecting rod ( Failure ) & wear now then there was back when the motors were WAY smaller and the components were being stressed much harder in relation to their size of todays motors.

Now days its bad fuel and bad oil.

There are motors failing all over the country with this VES Gold oil, Problems I have not seen until this oil came to market. ( Its money all about money ) and cleaner valves.

Both your sleds will be fine with the same old fashion oil. They will be better.

Ricta · Jan 15, 2008

Wow after reading this I feel ripped off for buying $40 jugs of Pol Gold, especially since I have my motor in the back seat of my truck because of a crank issue (02 700RMK). I have a premix set up, should I start using some non syn oil sounds like I should? I'm a rookie when it comes to working on sleds so I don’t know a lot. Was riding this weekend and the sled died on me (knew something was wrong) but like what was mentioned earlier in this thread it started right back up. I let it sit for a while then tried to head out and 10mins later it locked up on me, took it apart last night and the crank locks up in one spot. I know that’s not a lot of info but what am I looking at to fix this, just bearings? I’m taking it in today but I would like to get as many as opinions as possible and IndyDans seems to be one of the best.
Thanks for any info.

POLZIN · Jan 15, 2008

Dan ,
Any opinion on Royal purple brand it is a synthetic but, i have used there products in tons of industial rotating equipment and it suceeds where others fail its really quite remarkable stuff run it in my 900 and it runs better that ever. I will be sending you my bottom end in the spring .I guess you can evaluate it at that point. I would bet good money its the best syn. out there likley better than conventional
.

CRANK'N my 06 900

Somewhere between too dumb to quit and flat earth

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