During a gear change I couldn't turn the track by grabbing it and pulling on it. The tension is set correct. So then I pulled the belt and tried turning it with the secondary. It would turn then but really hard. Loosed the track and tried again it was easier but was thinking should of rotated easier then it did. Track isn't fully clipped.
How hard is your track to turn by hand?
- Thread starter 562xp
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Keep it banjo tight or Polaris will accuse you of running too loose when you try and get warranty for the track wearing where there are no clips.
Mine was tight and they still accused me of running too loose.
I think bearing life will definitely be compromised running too tight and power is lost.
Mine was tight and they still accused me of running too loose.
I think bearing life will definitely be compromised running too tight and power is lost.
P
Do a quick search on this. Been discussed many times. Effort to turn by hand and turning it under power are two completely different things. Keep factory tension, it's an efficiency thing. And if you are wearing the non-clipped section of your track, then the first thing I would do is check your tension, it's probably too loose.
Polaris spec is 3/8"-1/2" with 10 lbs 16" from rear bogey wheels, I ran mine 3/8" all season, adjusted before every weekend of riding (got real old) and still wore the non clipped sections of the track after only 500 miles on my 2nd track. This IS a problem that Polaris needs to address... But YES, run that thing banjo tight, anything over 1/2" with 10 lbs I've found to ratchet on me, which is a lot harder on the drive system than a tight track is on drive bearings...
B.S. Sorry but you must be a Polaris dealer (only) and not a real world rider to say this.
I respect much you have said in last posts but certainly not this one.
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A lot of people at dealerships are real world riders as well.
It's due to the centrifugal forces as the track comes around the idler wheels in the rear, they essentially try and follow the wheels completely around. Every change in direction creates new areas of friction and forces. Run your track loose, then take a peak as your running at high speeds...or don't, I'm sure you're smarter than several teams of mechanical engineers at the "Polaris Dealer"...
My sled is well within spec, has 110miles on the clock riding bottomless in Gaspesie QC and is already showing abnormal wear on the unclipped Windows.
Grow up.
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Grow up.
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Clipping is only answer so far- running this thing banjo tight is not
an option let alone an answer as per spec....
It an issue that we need to address ourselves as many in my group have been denied
:juggle: The warranty , 150 to 1,000 miles and tension made zero difference.. in stopping wear
an option let alone an answer as per spec....
It an issue that we need to address ourselves as many in my group have been denied
:juggle: The warranty , 150 to 1,000 miles and tension made zero difference.. in stopping wear
It's strange that this problem should show up now... they've been running the same tension and single ply tracks since the ProRide platform was introduced.
The differences on the AXYS tracks....
Taller lugs (2.6"& 3" vs 2.4") and 7 tooth drivers.
Hyfax is the same, track ply and clipping is the same.
The differences on the AXYS tracks....
Taller lugs (2.6"& 3" vs 2.4") and 7 tooth drivers.
Hyfax is the same, track ply and clipping is the same.
In this photo... which direction is the front of the sled?
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S
Seen this on a Doo I built. The only answer is to install a clip in that spot. The wear is due to the high load over the lug. I would be willing to bet a guy could un-clip the non lug area with no issues. The issue is the load the lug creates on the hi fax.
Might check your manual
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oops, numbers in my head were a little off, but I think you smell what I'm stepping in. 3/4" is still too loose and will cause it to ratchet.
The tracks lugs are stiffer.
The 2.4 lug would fold, these tracks flex the belting.
P
Haha!, yeah that's me...
Anyway, I definitely could see taller, stiffer paddles, and the smaller 7t drivers not helping the situation. Have never liked the 7t drivers. Really wish they would make enough room for 8t drivers but I'm not willing, at this point, to spend the money to make 8t fit. I did however go to the effort install a 2.25 PC with 8t drivers last year. For a number of reasons I'm back to the stock setup. Driver size and track tension are two different, yet related things, I'll always recommend running factory track tension.
Cory
8t driver and the 2.6 work just fine.....no modifications required..
Yeah and Kurt's Polaris was at the Snow show over the weekend with the AXYS gear down kit and this kit includes 8t avid drivers.
Don't need avid drivers, the drive shaft and drivers off a pro drop right in .... effective modification - Complement it with a TKI system , and a smoother rolling- flatter approach angle is achieved.... Above all CLIP THAT TRAck!!!!
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