IQR mountain handling

IdahoPowderHound · Aug 14, 2010

Just wondering if anyone else has had alot of seat time on the Raw chassie and a mountain converted IQR. I had a IQ chassie for two years then went to a 05 IQR with a 155 rear skid and 43" Z' Broz front end. I can no were close to sidehill as good, carve as easy or just ride the sled like i could the IQ chassie. I am no novice to ridding sleds and i can ride this sled very good but it just seems that it takes twice the effort to do so. So my question is, is it just rider pref. or setup? The sled has a 685 struthers and a 155 iq skid. exit shocks in the back and floats up front. Any info at all would be great, as if its setup then id like to get it done now before the snow flies, thanks

Matt McFerran · Aug 14, 2010

Hey there-
I have 3 IQrs and a 09 155 RMK.
Front end width is key- I have a dragon front end on my 150" IQR800. The front of my skid is mounted pretty low, and the skis are super narrow (I think 39"?). The thing falls right over, and carves like a mofo, only downside is ski lift (not perfect for himarking, but super fun for corness busting!
The Polaris Gripper skis are money! I have those on the 150" and my 136" and the rmk.
My spring sled is a 45" wide short track with the Uzi II skis on it. Its a pig to carve! the sled feels 50 pounds heavier then my big girl, and I have to work at keeping it on its side!
I ride with soft suspension on the skis and back of the skid, and stiffer and lower mounted front skid. kinda like having a more distinct pivot point in the center of the sled.

Sounds like a great setup that you have- Maybe borrow a buddies front dragon suspension for the weekend???
This is just how I like my sleds, but everyone will have a different idea!
Good luck-
Matt

IdahoPowderHound · Aug 14, 2010

Yeah i was thinking it was the front setup. i love the z-broz for the durability. i do alot of drops and jumps and re-entries so the little extra width is good. Just like your saying it feals 50 lbs heavier when its really alot lighter. I also have powder pros which are a wide ski. thinking of ditching them cause they dive alot, im guessing its the keal design of the ski. I just miss the stupid easy sidehill and carving that i had with the other chassie. for free-ridding backcountry its probly best to have very little ski pressure on that chassie. My IQ had boost so im used to steering with my body and legs when climbing anyways lol. I just want to get the comfort and finess back on this chassie

hudini · Aug 14, 2010

If you want comfort and finess back then you need to go with dragon spec a-arms/shocks...I ran my IQR with the race front susp and it was as you are describing. I changed it over to the dragon front end and that made the difference, plus I believe it is 20+ lbs lighter then the race front end, (my friend weighed his and I think that is what he told me). I also run the SLP P.P. with the Carls mod, but I really like mine, they seem to work well. The dragon that I have been on is setup with Holz/Fox and SLP P.P.'s and seems to take more energy to side hill and lay over when boondocking slowly through the trees. The thang that I notice is that the IQR seems to push through a corner due to no sway bar. Another friend of mine put a sway bar on his IQR and I have to say that it is the best handling sled out there hands down, pretty amazing. I would change your front end around and go ride it. Hope you get it dialed!!!

SnoDmon · Oct 4, 2010

You just need some seat time. I was really awkward on mine with a real similar setup for a few rides and then I just NAILED it out of nowhere. I came off an 05 900 174" and thought I could ride it better at first but after 2 months on an IQr I feel WAY more confident on the 900 and any other sleds then I ever did before. I thought I was a badass before and the IQr has taken my skills to a whole new level.

skidoomod · Oct 11, 2010

Front

I can ride mine great but it sure does have some ski pressure... What about shorter spindles and change the weight transfur......? Does the Dragon front end bolt right up?

SnoDmon · Oct 12, 2010

I'd say its probably a suspension setup than. Either the floats are f-ing you or the rear is setup to "high" so to speak. How's it transfer? Do you have room to tighten up the frt torque arm or let out your limiter strap? Id adjust the floats first just cuz it'd be simpler, but it sounds like the rear if there is too much ski pressure. It has the rmk skid correct? If so maybe mount the shock in the lowest hole.

hudini · Oct 13, 2010

It is the front suspension. I ran Brads short spindles, Floats, etc. and did not care for how the sled handled. I changed to the Dragon A-Arms and 17' Floats and everything changed for the better. Naturally the IQR's have more ski pressure, but trust me, my sleds handleing was much better without the race front end. I was not as wore out after a days ride when I made the change.

As far as setting up your rear suspension for mountains/pow you can pm me and I will give you the settings Carls gave me.

skidoomod · Oct 14, 2010

Sup.

I have a ez-ride skid.. I fear mounting the skid any lower due to the attact angle it would have, as you know they are a bit steep to begin with...

hudini · Oct 15, 2010

They are indeed. The measurments that I obtained does not permit the use of the stock IQR rear suspension hangers due to the geometry, and I suppose this would depend on your length of track and rear torque arm placement within the rails. Generally speaking, the skid is located down and back, but it is not as a big of move as you would think by reading this post. The placement of the rear skid came from a very reputible builder that built many IQR's for the mountains comparing the IQR setup and how it went through the snow to that of the RMK/Dragon and how it went through the snow.

The word on the street is that the IQR setup with these measurments had a better attack angle then the Dragon due to the chaincase being set somewhat lower. I can't confirm or denie this, all I can tell you is that I have not had any issues of trentching or excessive wheeleing and my sled goes thorugh the snow very well. The only issue with handeling I have noticed is that the IQR without the swaybar tends to "roll over" when moving slow in the pow, but this is no big deal with a pull on the bars and a blip of the throttle.

doors4u · Nov 9, 2010

I run a 41" Holz front end on mine. I had the stock shocks and just switched to FLOATS last year. Softer shocks help, but I think the width is the key. IMO 43 and 45 wide front ends are great for hill climb racing, but narrower is better for backcountry sleds.

meathooker · Dec 15, 2010

hudini is right on about the front end. i've always ran 43" wide front ends on my older t-arm sleds and loved them but the iqr for backcountry riding likes the 41" i have HOLZ a-arms and spindles and it is 22-23 pounds lighter than the stock front end.

another issue is the skid mounting position. i tried it in the stock front mounting hole to get a better track angle and i did not enjoy riding the sled as you describe. after moving in down one hole it was a whole new sled.

also as hudini mentioned if you can get a sway bar in there it will become the best handling sled you have ever ridden. Jetfuel has it set up so well i would stack it against any sled on the snow for handling.... i wish mine was that dialed. after i get my turbo sorted out i will put a sway bar in it so i can keep up with him on the trail again.

PR Performance · Dec 21, 2010

You guys might be able to help me. I am installing a timbersled rear skid 144 in my IQR and was wondering where to put the mounting holes in. I have a drop down bracket, but just need to know where to put new holes for better approach angle I have the z bros front end on it also so it is lower. Any info would be great as I want to get installed real soon.
Thanks

JET FUEL · Dec 22, 2010

PR Performance said:
You guys might be able to help me. I am installing a timbersled rear skid 144 in my IQR and was wondering where to put the mounting holes in. I have a drop down bracket, but just need to know where to put new holes for better approach angle I have the z bros front end on it also so it is lower. Any info would be great as I want to get installed real soon.
Thanks

I have a holz rear skid out of an edge sled, i went down one hole(on the inside of the tunnel the mounting plate)(about 5/8) and trimmed the rails to clear the drivers, I did meathookers the same. Mike(hudini) went down and back on his and it seems to handle well, he got his measurements from carl cycle.

I don't know what the specs are of the timber sled skid, if it is the same as an edge skid you can do it the way I did and just make sure your C to C are correct, meathooker makes rear drop bracket if your looking for those.

These are awesome mountain sleds when setup correctly.

edit just re read that you had drop brackets.

hudini · Dec 29, 2010

Yeah! I can't get over how well the properly setup IQR handles in the snow and goes through the pow! straight up amaizing, I would take any of our IQR's that are setup over a Dragon. I can't wait to get side by side a pro! Just not one with a turbo:face-icon-small-win

Twostroke · Jan 16, 2012

I've been trying to get my IQR mtn convert to handle the way I'd like it but can't seem to. It has tons of ski pressure, it's more happy on both skis then on edge on one but I have been riding set up snow. I have dragon control arms, and spindles with shorted and revalved stock iqr WE's but they have stock mseries springs on them with one turn of preload. 155 rmk skid. I think it's mainly the heavy ski pressure making it so much work to throw it on edge. sidehills and downhill u-turns are much harder for me on this sled then they were on my arctic cats. I added few turns of preload on the center shock to try to lessen ski pressure but it's still heavy. Limiter straps are mounted in the center hole if I remember correct. Rear tensioner block is on the softest setting.

What are some things I should try to make this sled more at home sidehilling?

IQRTurbo · Jan 17, 2012

Where is your front and rear torque arm location in the tunnel? I feel your pain as it took me a while to get it right. Move the front mount down a bit and try it. Small changes make huge impovements. I have a turboed pro as well and give me my IQR over it any day of the week. Absolutely a blast to ride and as nimble as a sled can get. I have dragon arms, shortened and revalved WE shocks, HRP ez steer spindles, 146 2.5 camo extreme, Holz rear skid with fox zero pros and custom narrowed and raised running boards.

Try letting your straps out more as well, you just need to get more weight off the skis. Also pull the spacer block out from behind your steering stem to get back another couple inches on the sled and that will pull some weight also. It is possible you have the rear arm located too low and may be fighting that as well.

Twostroke · Jan 17, 2012

I'm in the stock location in front, I'll have to measure the rear but it's above the footboards, about the same height as stock but further back. Would dropping the rear help? i have the bracket already there to do so.

Dropping the front wouldn't make my attack angle worse and cause trenching?

I'm hesitant to loosen the limiter strap anymore because it already wheelie happy.

I just want it to feel light in the bars and more willing to flop on it's side,.

IQRTurbo · Jan 18, 2012

You are too high with the front torque arm bolt. You need the sled to pivot around some on the front of the skid to make it roll easier and carry some of the weight of the front end. If you lower the back crossshaft (which will raise the bumper higher off the ground) you will be going the wrong way and planting the front even more. Drill another set of holes and try it, it only takes a half a beer to move the skid and the other half can be enjoyed while reveling about how great it now works. The sled will wheelie, but it makes it fun and you will learn to like a bike and lean. I promise, it will be a blast to ride once it is dialed in.

jpmanguy · Jan 18, 2012

IQRTurbo said:
You are too high with the front torque arm bolt. You need the sled to pivot around some on the front of the skid to make it roll easier and carry some of the weight of the front end. If you lower the back crossshaft (which will raise the bumper higher off the ground) you will be going the wrong way and planting the front even more. Drill another set of holes and try it, it only takes a half a beer to move the skid and the other half can be enjoyed while reveling about how great it now works. The sled will wheelie, but it makes it fun and you will learn to like a bike and lean. I promise, it will be a blast to ride once it is dialed in.

I tried mine in the pilot hole below the stock front one and my rear mounts on drop brackets at 9-1/8" from top of tunnel, not including the coolers if that matters. I had problems stabbing the track with it in the lower hole even with the limiter straps sucked up. Btw I have a iq rmk 144" rear with exit x1 shocks. Will an anti stab kit prevent this from happening and will it lessen the pressure of the track on the rails? When it's down there it seems to be a lot of pressure on the front of the rails.

IQR mountain handling

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