S
I personally would rather do a 10" riser block then 10" tall bars, just seems to me you would be asking for a strength issue with 10" tall bars, but with these being Chome Molly I might have to try a set of em 
Skinz Protective Gear (SPG) Handlebars
- Thread starter mountainhorse
- Start date
M
Mountainhorse,
Do you know if these bars w/the tabs for mounting a mountain bar will work w/Fabcrafts mountain bar strap?
Thanks
Do you know if these bars w/the tabs for mounting a mountain bar will work w/Fabcrafts mountain bar strap?
Thanks
Fabcraft was the original maker and designer of the grab straps for Polaris
Polaris used the design, and are now making them with their own suppliers, probably in Tiawan..
So, YES the Fabcraft Polybar will work the exact same as the stock Polaris strap. They are the same part. Also the Fabcraft PolyBars come in Blk, Blue, Red, Yellow, Purple, Green, Orange for $25.
Fabcraft (406) 777 - 1200
Polaris used the design, and are now making them with their own suppliers, probably in Tiawan..
So, YES the Fabcraft Polybar will work the exact same as the stock Polaris strap. They are the same part. Also the Fabcraft PolyBars come in Blk, Blue, Red, Yellow, Purple, Green, Orange for $25.
Fabcraft (406) 777 - 1200
Mountainhorse,
Thank you for the nice comments. The hi power grip heaters will be available in July/August for next season. We have a good working relationship with Skinz and the Hawksworth family. You can even see some of our design input in their products.
We are working on a non u-bolt mount for the Fabcract style of mountian bar. Trying to get it so it is not too expensive.
What do all you other people think about a nicer mount for the Fabcraft mountain bar? U-bolts work but yes are a bit un appealing.
Thank you for the nice comments. The hi power grip heaters will be available in July/August for next season. We have a good working relationship with Skinz and the Hawksworth family. You can even see some of our design input in their products.
We are working on a non u-bolt mount for the Fabcract style of mountian bar. Trying to get it so it is not too expensive.
What do all you other people think about a nicer mount for the Fabcraft mountain bar? U-bolts work but yes are a bit un appealing.
S
Personally the u-bolt set up would be my last choice. I would search high and low until I found a cleaner mount.
RSI
do you sell the carbon fibre wrap/insert to help with the heat disappation on the aluminum handle bars
what else can I wrap the bar with to prevent the heat loss
How much more power will the hi-heat hand warmers draw
do you think Polaris will address this issue on their pro tapers or will they just leave it as is and let the consumer figgure it out and pay for the fix themselves
It gets cold up here and I cant think of not having heated grips to ride with Brrrrr.
do you sell the carbon fibre wrap/insert to help with the heat disappation on the aluminum handle bars
what else can I wrap the bar with to prevent the heat loss
How much more power will the hi-heat hand warmers draw
do you think Polaris will address this issue on their pro tapers or will they just leave it as is and let the consumer figgure it out and pay for the fix themselves
It gets cold up here and I cant think of not having heated grips to ride with Brrrrr.
Rab,
The Carbon fiber wrap bars are a thin layer of carbon bonded to the tapered aluminum. They definetly help with the grip heater issue. Our new hi powered grip heaters solve the problem on the regular aluminum handlebars. Testing has gone great with most people turning them off because they get plenty warm. One of our test riders said finally my hands are warm with aluminum bars even without handguards. To use our hi powered grip heaters on steel or the carbon bars may cause to hi of heat for most people.
The Ski-Doo summits have aluminum bars stock and use a layer of thick cork to insulate the heater from the aluminum bars. This makes the grip too big of round in our opinion. Our new hi powered heaters will allow you to put the heater right on the aluminum, eliminating the cork layer, thus making the grip feel smaller in diameter.
We checked with Polaris and they said they are useing the same grip heater as the 08 sleds with steel bars. Might have a heat issue with those. The ones I have rode seemed to get warm but it was above freezing / spring conditions. The thing we found out when rideing the 09 Polaris with the Pro Taper bars was the amount of flex in the bars right above the crossbar clamp. I thought the steering hoop was loose because of the buttery / sloppy feel but after looking the bars flex big time above the crossbar clamp with little effort. I felt more comfortable on the stock steel bars. Just our 2cents .
We will have the heaters and new products up on our site here real soon. The STD rectangular style of hi power heaters retails for $34.95 per pair and the extended over the hook ones are $39.95 per pair. They only draw a bit more juice from your sled. The sleds have plenty to run them.
The Carbon fiber wrap bars are a thin layer of carbon bonded to the tapered aluminum. They definetly help with the grip heater issue. Our new hi powered grip heaters solve the problem on the regular aluminum handlebars. Testing has gone great with most people turning them off because they get plenty warm. One of our test riders said finally my hands are warm with aluminum bars even without handguards. To use our hi powered grip heaters on steel or the carbon bars may cause to hi of heat for most people.
The Ski-Doo summits have aluminum bars stock and use a layer of thick cork to insulate the heater from the aluminum bars. This makes the grip too big of round in our opinion. Our new hi powered heaters will allow you to put the heater right on the aluminum, eliminating the cork layer, thus making the grip feel smaller in diameter.
We checked with Polaris and they said they are useing the same grip heater as the 08 sleds with steel bars. Might have a heat issue with those. The ones I have rode seemed to get warm but it was above freezing / spring conditions. The thing we found out when rideing the 09 Polaris with the Pro Taper bars was the amount of flex in the bars right above the crossbar clamp. I thought the steering hoop was loose because of the buttery / sloppy feel but after looking the bars flex big time above the crossbar clamp with little effort. I felt more comfortable on the stock steel bars. Just our 2cents .
We will have the heaters and new products up on our site here real soon. The STD rectangular style of hi power heaters retails for $34.95 per pair and the extended over the hook ones are $39.95 per pair. They only draw a bit more juice from your sled. The sleds have plenty to run them.
Glad we could help
SPG's full line of bars...These show the hooked bars, available as straight bars, without hooks, as well
Great for the M-S and Dragons / Assault No extra Block riser needed.
Top to bottom 10", 8", 6", 4", 2"
Without hook, My 4" bar shown
Full line, shown with hooks
Great for the M-S and Dragons / Assault No extra Block riser needed.
Top to bottom 10", 8", 6", 4", 2"
Without hook, My 4" bar shown
Full line, shown with hooks
how wide are they compared to stockers? Anybody tried them on a nytro yet?
with hooks a bit wider than stockers with hooks on.
The non hooked ones are about the same width
The non hooked ones are about the same width
B
I was told that Polaris has a new grip heater for the uluminum Pro Taper bars that gets alot hotter and works awesome.
I sure hope so I dont think Ic could drive without heated grios anymore
If Polaris doesnt fix it I will either get those special cant rem who makes them hand warmers that work on aluminum
or
I will get the SPG bars
just one Question on the hooked SPG bars do the hand warmers and grips go over the end of the bar on install ?
Our new hi power grip heaters solve the aluminum handlebar issue. They get hot and you will find yourself even turning them off from time to time when useing aluminum handlebars. Price is better than OEM too. STD are $34.95 / pr and the extended ones are $42.95 / pr
View attachment 19068
View attachment 19069
View attachment 19070
NICE!!!
3 wire... Low, Med, Hi??
What is the current draw on high per heater?
Is that for the heaters themselves or for a whole kit with switch etc?
Can the stock wiring on the sled handle the current draw or is a relay needed?
What is the length of the pigtail?? ... the longer the better so that the splice can happen under the hood instead of exposed to the elements or in plain view...
3 wire... Low, Med, Hi??
What is the current draw on high per heater?
Is that for the heaters themselves or for a whole kit with switch etc?
Can the stock wiring on the sled handle the current draw or is a relay needed?
What is the length of the pigtail?? ... the longer the better so that the splice can happen under the hood instead of exposed to the elements or in plain view...
The grips go over the hooks...you will need longer grips like the ODI's... a much better grip IMO than anything else out there.
With the SPG or any other bar with built in hooks, you will need to have a two piece throttle block.
They will work on Polaris that have Low, Med, and High. The High function is built into the switch.
They are a 30 watt heater. Most Stock oem ones are around 20 Watt.
They are just the elements and will work with the stock switch. We are working on getting a universal high / low switch.
Yes the stock wires will handle the current. Been testing them all winter.
The length of the wires are 14". You pretty much can't remove your stock heaters without damageing them. So we reccommend cutting off the connector off of your stock heater and re attaching it to our heater so it can be plugged into your chassis harness.
Hope this helps
RSI...
Has the order been placed yet from your mfg.....
I would really like to see a longer 24" or so wire so that the spice can happen well under the hood instead of out in the open. Makes for a much cleaner looking handlebar too.
Has the order been placed yet from your mfg.....
I would really like to see a longer 24" or so wire so that the spice can happen well under the hood instead of out in the open. Makes for a much cleaner looking handlebar too.
Similar threads
