the handlebar thread...

i went with cheetah bars and grips. happy with them.

I have tried about five sets of bars on my proclimb, including the cheata bars. Most are to wide for my preference, I settled with the lowest rise bars that Polaris offers. They are also the strongest bars I have found, every other set wound up bent after a few roll overs

richardderkevorkian said:

I have tried about five sets of bars on my proclimb, including the cheata bars. Most are to wide for my preference, I settled with the lowest rise bars that Polaris offers. They are also the strongest bars I have found, every other set wound up bent after a few roll overs

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What height riser are you running with that set up?

Downzero said:

What height riser are you running with that set up?

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The arctic cat 2", with the lower rise bars and an hcr post they are about the same height as a stock axis set up.

Handlebars are a very rider specific thing. To anyone looking to replace their bars with something better, this is my recommendation: don't buy a set of bars because joe schmoe says "They're awesome". Just like any other aftermarket part you need to know why they are awesome FOR THAT PERSON. The reason they like them might be totally opposite of what you are looking for. Richardderkevorkian seems to like narrower bars. I on the other hand have really broad shoulders and went with the widest bars I could get with the pull back angle I like.

If you don't know what you want your new bar bend to be and don't have access to bars to test, try this:
1. Stand your sled in your normal riding position. Note any pressure points or areas you feel less than comfortable.
2. Now let go of the bars and hold your hands where they seem most comfortable. Does the width of your hands match the stock bar? Narrower or wider? How about the angle of your hands and wrists?
3. Note the differences between steps 1 and 2 and then you'll have an idea of what direction to go with your new bars.

Aluminum bars will pull heat from your grip heaters very quickly so they need to be insulated to still work well. A layer of cork between the bar and the element like Ski-doo uses works well and theirs is already adhesive-backed to stick to the bars. This also makes the grip diameter a little larger by the time it's all said and done. Aluminum bars without a cross bar will typically flex a little more than other types.

I've used RSI 7" grips and they are very similar in diameter and grip to Polaris grips. They do wear fairly fast. Their 8" grips seem to be ODI Ruffians which are my grip of choice. They are soft and provide grip in all conditions and seem to be resistant to building ice on them (grip flex might be breaking it off). They are not the thinnest though.

I personally like the stock Cat bend, just wanted them a little wider and same height I had with a 6" riser. I got a set of Rox chromoly flat bars with 12 degree pull back and built in 30-45 degree hooks. They are pretty much what I was looking for. The hooks are also angled forward slightly which I really like as you can feel them keeping your hands locked in to the bar at all times. The heavy duty chromoly bar doesn't flex much, but I like my sled to feel pretty rigid so my inputs go straight to the sled. I like to ride with my elbows just SLIGHTLY bent in my neutral position. That gives me enough flexibility to move and absorb hits, but when I shift my body to make the sled change direction my pulling arm is straight. Pulling on a sled with a straight arm is much easier and requires less strain than if your arm is bent.

I posted this on the 1100 thread, but not much action. I have a 12'XF 100 t, WITH Cats vertical steering kit. Looing to add CFR bars. I just want to use factory switches. Will the Boondocker 2.0 bars just bolt up?