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LED light install

C
Hi guys!

Pls help, installed LED light, but noticed that both beams working same time no matter which mode is on, high beam or low beam. Panel's high beam sign is also illuminate, no matter LED lights attached or not. As soon as I attach halogen, all works well.

Pls advise, is this thing named "heater indicator lamp in switch" connected with both wires, can be the reason of current flowing in both lines in case of higher resistance when Led or nothing att-d? What is it BTW? Can it be removed?

Leds lights now without decoder, anybody expereinced, will it help if I buy it and it solved this matter? Decoder works as low resistanse trick?

Tnx in adv!

left handlebar scheme.JPG
 

The Bob

Well-known member
Premium Member
Mar 1, 2008
504
84
28
MN
How many wires goto the LED?? What wires do you have the LED hooked up to?

I would advise you do a search on LED's on a Pro-RMK. Lots of articles about it. Big issue is if you remove the halogens and run lesser watts to the LED's you need a resistor to make up the watts you eliminated by getting rid of the halogen. Halogens 100-130 watts most LED's 10-20 watts. Most use a 100 watt 3 ohm resistor. I do not think this is why your High beam indicator is staying on.
 
C
How many wires goto the LED?? What wires do you have the LED hooked up to?

I meant original halo, not additional lights. Thou I have additional leds in high beam wired hooked up near halogens, they work well, switching between modes


I would advise you do a search on LED's on a Pro-RMK. Lots of articles about it. Big issue is if you remove the halogens and run lesser watts to the LED's you need a resistor to make up the watts you eliminated by getting rid of the halogen. Halogens 100-130 watts most LED's 10-20 watts. Most use a 100 watt 3 ohm resistor. I do not think this is why your High beam indicator is staying on.

I did it for sure, but nothing find similar to my case. So you mean "to play" with resistors , the way decoder/load did ?

Big issue for me is "heater indicator", what is it. To find resistance of it gives a clue how many add to high/low beam lines for proper current flow. Or remove it
 
C
Solved this matter by myself.


So, resistance of that lamp heater indicator is 16 Ohm which by calculations from 13V gives current at about 0.8A and accordingly voltage to any - high or low beams at about 10-11 V which was enough to light up both lines of LEDs

I cut one of wires of that lamp-heater indicator, which itself is absolutely unnecessary, barely glow, at least with me, and viola!, all works perfect !

Hope it help to somebody else with LED lights installing bags
 
E
Dec 28, 2012
1
0
1
Sweden
Solved this matter by myself.


So, resistance of that lamp heater indicator is 16 Ohm which by calculations from 13V gives current at about 0.8A and accordingly voltage to any - high or low beams at about 10-11 V which was enough to light up both lines of LEDs

I cut one of wires of that lamp-heater indicator, which itself is absolutely unnecessary, barely glow, at least with me, and viola!, all works perfect !

Hope it help to somebody else with LED lights installing bags
7 years later... Thanks for this thread, i had the same problem with my 600 Rmk - 13.
I would never have solved this without this thread. A "simple" solution to a tricky bug, thank you very much.
//Tomas
😃😃😃
 
C
Dec 14, 2020
493
682
93
I think I got an LED rectifier all built and ready to go from MTN Tek. Without it the lights flickered at idle until voltage came up at about 5000rpm.

I have 1000 Miles with no resistor. Nothing has burned up yet with 50w of LED.

Generally it's really hard to burn things up with too little load. Only exception that comes to mind is a coil, but that's trying to discharge 30-50000 volts, and it will find a way if it's not connected.

Big difference from 12v though.
 
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