06' 900 mid throttle cutting out

biggsy90 · Mar 1, 2015

Thanks guido. I have tried both with the exhaust valve intact and with plugged ports. Doesn't seem to change.

I will check the fuel pressure myself. Any ideas where I can get a decent gauge for a reasonable price. Fuel lines outside the tan look ok. I will pull the tank in the next couple weeks. Do u really think it could be a fuel pressure issue when it runs so good at WOT?

Would an ECU give such erratic behavior. Kinda thought it was good or DEAD.
I may take u up on that.

Better Boards are great by the way. Thanks

biggsy90 · Mar 2, 2015

changed the reeds out last night with SPI ones. didnt see any noticeable craks or chips, but there was thick black oil residue in the throttle body on the engine side only. I have noticed this each time I have taken them off. first i thought it was just my previous oil leaking problem, but wondering if this is normal or if this could suggest a reed problem. yes i have already changed them, but cant test it until this weekend and dont want to keep replacing things without knowing what the problem is.

Also, is there any special way to put the reeds in? I realize there are 2 inside and 2 outside ones, but theres not an engine side or intake side right? meaning the reed can be turned 180 and still function the same?

Last thing, when I changed the fuel filter, didnt seem like there was any residual pressure. When I pressed the schrader valve there was no spurt of fuel, just gravity trickle. Normal or not?

Still looking for a fuel pressure tester that has a long enough hose to see while riding and will go over 100psi

thanks
Bill

biggsy90 · Mar 7, 2015

Well, didnt help at all. Tried packing snow around the ECU, regulator, capacitor, but no help.

stumbling and cutting out seems to be prevalent at all lower rpms. Then once it catches runs like a raped ape above 6000 RPM,

Thinking now it may be an injector issue. Checked the fuel pressure with and I got 118 with a buddies gauge. Will pull the tank and check the lines next, then send in the injectors

biggsy90 · Jun 16, 2015

Summer update.

Got the injectors back and all checked out ok.

checked fuel pressure again and got 124, but pretty cheap gauge, but held steady through RPM range

anyone think its possible that STA-BIL could be causing this problem? I put some in every fill up since I will sometimes go weeks without riding.

otherwise I will keep replacing things.

biggsy90 · Jan 4, 2016

Well.... Problem keeps getting worse. Now it wont idle warm. when its cold idles a little high, but smooth. Once it gets to about 70-80 it sounds like running on 1 cylinder then dies. still seems fine at WOT.

I have replaced every piece of electronics except for the Stator. Checked all the wiring and looks OK. fuel pump assm was replaced, compression is around 100 on my gauge and even.

Im stumped. only other thing I can think of is that the wire harness may be bad.

Any other thoughts?

Cerialsledder · Jan 4, 2016

To me it sounds like it's electrical. If that is the stock stator then I'm going to point to it. Electronics do funky things when they get warm.

biggsy90 · Jan 4, 2016

certainly sounds electrical. May as well Try the Stator since Ive tried everything else.
anybody got a stator?

biggsy90 · Jan 11, 2016

Stator didnt work either. Im at a loss. not sure what else it could be

switchbackdragon · Jan 11, 2016

doesn't 100 psi seem low compression. I know they say even and above 90 as a rule of thumb but I wonder if bad rings or seal might be an issue.

biggsy90 · Jan 12, 2016

I really think that is more my gauge. Have had it for years and highest I have ever seen is 115 on a rebuilt toyota motor. Plus pulls VERY strong at WOT. stumbles along then takes off like a rocket and damn near throws me off!

anyone think this could be a bad kill switch or ignition switch, or are those usually all or nothing type problems.

switchbackdragon · Jan 12, 2016

I would not think the kill or ignition switch would change at wide open throttle. on a car the symptoms you are describing would be like an oxygen sensor. on them when you go wide open throttle computer doesn't look at oxygen sensor data. But I see you already replaced exhaust sensor. Is there excessive smoking out exhaust thought maybe oil cable out of adjustment causing over oiling until WOT. Sorry about car theory just explaining thought process.

biggsy90 · Jan 13, 2016

doesnt smoke to bad and has new FBF type cable. pump seems to be working normally.

giving up and taking it to a dealer in Laramie bummer is its a 3 hour round trip, Ive just gotten no where and prob have 50+ hours into trying to fix it.

Cerialsledder · Jan 13, 2016

Have them look at the tps setting on that thing. To me that could be out just a touch and it doesn't take much to knock them out of wack either.

biggsy90 · Jan 22, 2016

Well, 2nd dealer couldn't diagnosis it either. Couldn't replicate the problem. Hooked it up to the computer and everything checked out. TPS, they thought was within spec. Couldn't talk to the technician himself so not sure what the voltage was.

We'll now need to start from scratch again. Plan to check the TPS again myself .

Anyone got any other ideas? Worried I may have replaced 1 bad sensor or computer with another

TriumphoverU · Jan 24, 2016

I'm still thinking its a partial load injector problem. It may not be the actual injector, but maybe the wiring going to the injector.

Once you can replicate the problem at idle, unplug one of they spark plugs and see if the engine either continues to run the same, continues to run but worse, or dies. At least this way we can see if the issue is affecting 1 cylinder or both.

Since the injectors checked out ok, I would maybe check out the wiring harness between the ECU and the injectors very closely.

biggsy90 · Jan 24, 2016

Pick up the sled yesterday and different mechanic reflashed ECU for stock program and set TPS it was .89 or .90. set to .93 i believe. didnt make a difference.

Quick recap
The sled. 2006 900. PO said engine was rebuilt 1000 miles ago and definitely looks like someone went through it. RTK torque line head, CPI pip and Can i believe. fire and ice intake.

The problem
Idles and runs fine cold, but at about 80ish degrees idles erratically and will even die, then starts stumbling and cutting out at part throttle. WOT seems to pull strong, but i have nothing to compare it to.

I have changed just about every electrical component, unplugged kill and ignition switch, and even hand and thumb warmers.

Triumph, I looked at them pretty good this summer when I sent the injectors off. tried to test resistance and move the wires all around and didnt seem like the resistance changed at all so seems like the injector wires are OK, but man do they get kinked once the engine is back in. I'll check the harness from the computer to the injector plugs again, didnt see any pushed in pins or any other problems though. I still think this may be the problem, but not sure what else to do to check it.

I havent tried pulling a plug wire yet, but when the idle acts up, sure seems like it is running on 1 cylinder.

when I took the plugs out to check compression, seemed like one of them had more oil than the other, but didnt look terrible to me.

does anyone think this could be a top end or cylinder problem?

Cerialsledder · Jan 25, 2016

There should be a manual in one of the stickies up top. I would ohm out the air temp sensor and O2 sensor and make sure those are not faulty.

biggsy90 · Jan 25, 2016

checked checked both the intake and exhaust probes last year and ended up replacing both as well, so I dont think thats it.

Cerialsledder · Jan 25, 2016

can't think of anything else other than wiring somewhere? you checked by the jackshaft where things are routed and nothing worn through? checked fuel pressure?

biggsy90 · Jan 25, 2016

checked fuel pressure and even replaced fuel pump and everything. I will check wiring again.

wondering if this could be a rings problem, just seems wierd for rings to do this, but I dont have a lot of experience with 2 strokes

06' 900 mid throttle cutting out

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