Adjustable bars

Adjustable bars or adjustable risers??




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ROX makes adjustable risers.

The short skidoo adjustable riser works great and is easy to adjust with the flip lever.
You need t top steering post to use it.
I have the carbon fiber RSI back country bars on top of that.
I cut 1 inch off of my steering post and welded a knurled T post top on it.
The skidoo adjustable riser is the only one that I know of that uses a single lever to adjust.
Solid as a rock.

I just put my handlebar bag right over the top of it.

Nice work...

NOTE: The Ski Doo requires a wider T-top than the factory Polaris T-top.



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Sheetmetalfab said:

I just put my handlebar bag right over the top of it.

Click to expand...

Ok... Interesting, any more pics on this one? Is there an up to date parts diagram somewhere online?

Thanks

I had a look at this today.

So that you know... Sheetmetalfab has more skills and resources than most
...so know going into installing a this adjustable riser that it is a custom fab setup.



Some info you may find helpful.

The Ski Doo's run a tall riser and straight or 2' Rise bars... compared to the Polaris that have a built in 7" rise to them. (6" on the "low" 2015 bars)

The Ski Doo Pivot tube (t-top tube) is 4.25" wide compared to the std rmk 3.125" wide Polaris

There are 3 models

1)
PN 860200634, $160
6.5inch to 8 inch rise (165mm - 205mm)

2)
PN 860200972, $160
7.2 inch to 10 inch rise (185mm-250mm)
NOTE: This is for bars that have a normal 7/8" center section only.

3)
PN 860200973
4.5 inch to 6.8 inch rise ( 115mm - 175mm)
NOTE: This is for bars that have a "FAT" 1.125" center section only

Also... no clamps are provided for the bars (the mating half of that bolts to the riser...Ski doo intends people to re-use the stock ones... those must be purchased separately from SkiDoo... $20 each.
Or, the kit from powermadd would work
http://powermaddstore.com/pm/product.php?productid=292&cat=0&page=1


As I said above.. and pointed out by Sheetmetal fab... there are no bolt on adapters for the flat Polaris mount that have the wider 4.5" t-tube for the Ski Doo width risers.

Of course, there are many other bar-rise-height combos to choose from.


You would need to make a custom t-top steering post
OR
Have WildChild (Canada Sled Parts inc) make you a custom width one to fit this block.
http://canadasledparts.com/cgi-bin/p/awtp-product-category.cgi?d=canada-sled-parts&pc=9054

Overall... Post, adjustable riser block, handlebars, grip heaters You are looking at around $400 plus shipping/tax plus labor.
about $225 if you can fabricate the post on your own.
Nice mod... I'm considering it...Thanks to Sheetmetalfab for bringing it to our attention.


ALSO...

If used in conjunction with the PRO Taper bars... even the shortest of these models would be 13.5" rise to 15" rise... the tallest would be from 14.2 to 17" rise after the Doo block is installed.
SO..
You would need to change to a straight handlebar like this one from RSI.
http://www.rsiracing.com/CHROMOLY-78-HANDLEBARS_p_32.html

Or maybe the 3" rise bar like sheetmetalfab is using. (RSI has discontinued the Carbon version... But has the plain aluminum ones avail)
With the Tapered "fat bar" version ... this would give you a bar height of 7.5 to 9.8 inches of total rise (again, compared to the stock 7" rise on the pro)
http://www.rsiracing.com/7075-TAPERED-ALUMINUM-HANDLEBARS_p_34.html

Here is a vid of the Doo Adjustable riser.
<iframe width="853" height="480" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/9IK3dX4YR7c" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Ski doo photo




Description: (from SkiDoo parts)

Renegade Backcountry (2011 and up), Summit SP - Vehicles with 165 mm or 205 mm riserblock

Mountain and backcountry sleds require a wide range of riding positions to maximize your experience.
Handlebar positioning is key.
The fast way to modify your handlebar height adapting to changing riding conditions.
Utilize the lower position for trail / sit down riding/ extend to maximum height in seconds to convert to stand up riding.
Works in conjunction with all stock cables and wiring.
Easily and quickly adjustable without tools.
Adjustable length: 130 mm to 205 mm high.


Color: Black / Aluminium

Click to expand...

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MAN Eric !?

Talk about responding to the Q's!! :clap2:

Wicked info Eric, gave me a completely new angle on getting an adjustable riser for my pro. Simple way; flat plate bolted to my pro steering post and bottom of riser + IQr/other straight bar on top.

Thank you.

RS

Norway said:

MAN Eric !?

Talk about responding to the Q's!! :clap2:

Wicked info Eric, gave me a completely new angle on getting an adjustable riser for my pro. Simple way; flat plate bolted to my pro steering post and bottom of riser + IQr/other straight bar on top.

Thank you.

RS

Click to expand...

Yeah i considered that.
Two things.
First the skidoo bolt pattern is tight enough that you may have to countersink them into the adapter plate to not interfere with the flattop post.
Also i did not want my steering post bent, (again)
As there is no fold point. ( maybe i am too hard on chit)

Second.
I already had the rsi bars so i machined the riser to adjust a half inch lower than before. Then i cut an inch off the stock post and welded the strait tube from a fly pivot adapter on the top. This gives me adjustment from an inch lower than stock to super tall for hauling a snowboarder, or just wheelieing over backwards alot in steep terrain. ( testing the fold point/ undercarriage inspection)

On a side note the fly pivot adapter is post heat treated cromoly and hard on endmills.
Also the factory steering post is double wall at least the top half.

I have not measured one of these but it may work with a strait handlebar and the short doo adj. riser.
If not the narrow portion below the pivot tube could be cut a little skinnier.

Should give you a lower than stock and higher adjustment.



This is what i had on hand and the base on it interferes with the doo bottom bolts.
Strong lil bugger tho.
Looking at my first picture you can see how much pivot tube sticks out each side of the doo riser.

You really only need 3.5" of pivot tube for the doo riser.

Thanks a lot both MH and Sheetmetalfab, great info. I think this will be my ticket. Probably use the #860200973 riser as it seems to combine a short total minimum length of 115mm with a good increase of 60mm up to 175mm total.

Would want to either get a std rmk post or cut my pro post and weld a T-top on it. The latter would allow me to weld on the correct size tube for the riser, leaving only the handlebar to fit. Have some ideas there to that are simple and affordable.

RS

Sheetmetalfab...

What is the measured width of the silver part of the Doo adj riser where it 'nests" onto the t-top?





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Another option is the Alt Impact Titanium PRO "T" top post that Dan jigged to allow him to weld it at most any length desired.

Huge weight savings to boot. From my notes 2 1/2#'s of weight saved for the three pieces if all three are used. Just shy of a grand however, but excellent quality craftsmanship.


I can post pics and weights after work but they are much lighter fully loaded with the bearings and all than the stock steel parts raw. I also had him make mine tall enough to just run a 1" or 2" riser with my straight tapered Carbon bars.

I'm still looking for my short riser though, most I've found do not have the large clamp for the tapered bars in such a short riser. I may end up modifying a 7/8" x 7/8" riser to fit my needs.

Mountainhorse that length of tube i gave clears each side of the riser by a 16th of an inch wider.

Loud handle.
Fly makes a 2 inch riser that goes from seven eights to inch and an eighth

mountainhorse said:

Sheetmetalfab...

What is the measured width of the silver part of the Doo adj riser where it 'nests" onto the t-top?





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Click to expand...

To answer what you're driving at I know the stock rmk T post will not contact enough of the skidoo riser to be strong.
In the crotch of where the skidoo riser nests onto the 7/8 tubing, there is only a quarter inch thick material.

3 3/8" wide silver piece.

Not driving at something... Genuinely would like to know the dimension of the part if you can help me out.

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There ya go.





3.625 outside of nubs.
3.375 inner

LoudHandle said:

Another option is the Alt Impact Titanium PRO "T" top post that Dan jigged to allow him to weld it at most any length desired. He can do them as short as sheetmetalfab's pic or as long or longer than my pics.

Huge weight savings to boot. From my notes 2 1/2#'s of weight saved for the three pieces if all three are used. Just shy of a grand however, but excellent quality craftsmanship.


I can post pics and weights after work but they are much lighter fully loaded with the bearings and all than the stock steel parts raw. I also had him make mine tall enough to just run a 1" or 2" riser with my straight tapered Carbon bars.

Click to expand...

Another thing I'm doing to save some additional weight is going to the '10 Rush bushings and the '10 Rush and IQR / Pro X / Edge extrusion which saves an additional 0.44#'s with steel hardware or a bit more than 0.509#'s with TI hardware. If I need to remove some play I will machine the wider EDGE extrusion to take up the play. Rather than the bolt being centered in the extrusion it will be offset the appropriate amount.




While the weights are hard to see in the photos they are;
Post was 856 G w/o bushings, now 477 G w/ bushings and 4 1/2" additional length for mine. I may wish I had gone with a lower T top if I go over the bars much. : )
Mid-shaft was 839 G, Now 438 G
Frog was 255 G empty (forgot to weight it loaded), now 196 G loaded w/ TI bolt and nut.

So if you elect to use the '10 Rush style bushings and extruded retainer you can save an easy 3 #'s plus for about a grand. The Rush bushings are cheap and the extrusions are prevalent, especially in the EDGE width. I had Dan make the T top a full 4" wide.

Hopefully some find this info helpful