Rk Tek Drop in kit RESULTS

Jkinzer · Apr 15, 2013

I know there was a bunch of these kits on the snow this year, if and only if you have one in your sled please respond to this thread with your experiences through out this season. Would like to hear the good and the bad.

We installed 15+ of these this year with great results. Every kit we did this year except one 2011 were all stacked with the slp stage 2 kit. Very big power increase from low end torque all the way through the power band. This kit also takes A LOT of the engine vibration away, you can actually leave your helmet and gloves on your seat with the sled running and they stay there. Put over 600 miles on my personal sled with this set up this season and couldnt have been happier, just wish i had more time to ride it:face-icon-small-hap
so my review for this kit would definitely be two thumbs up for RK Tek, great performance and an even better price!

Jkinzer · Apr 15, 2013

mtnrider · Apr 16, 2013

what fuel controller are you using. and if you are using the PCV do you have a fuel map. when I installed the SLP pipe and PCV With the SLP stage 4 mapping with the RKT drop in kit my top end was popping and stuttering. By the way Ive got a 2012 800 Pro

edavis0202 · Apr 16, 2013

Jeremy sold me my kit and I had SLP Pipe/Can with my own clutching…stage 4 mapping and I made adjustments with the help of my AFR…almost 800miles and it just flat out worked like I wanted…can’t wait to put a drop in kit on my 13’ Assault with turbo…should bring smiles to my face and make my arms longer

Thanks Jeremy!

Jkinzer · Apr 16, 2013

mtnrider said:
what fuel controller are you using. and if you are using the PCV do you have a fuel map. when I installed the SLP pipe and PCV With the SLP stage 4 mapping with the RKT drop in kit my top end was popping and stuttering. By the way Ive got a 2012 800 Pro

running all pcV's with the stage 4 as a base map, making minor adjustments where needed

mtnrider · Apr 16, 2013

can you post the changes you made to stage 4 mapping

Eivel · Apr 16, 2013

Running the drop-in-kit (12.6:1) in my '13 Pro stacked with the SLP stage2 kit, at sea level with 98okt fuel. 91 non eth mode.
I'm really having a hard time with DEt problems.

Started out with the Stage3 SLP map, more or less useless.
Got the stage 4 map, it was better but still would DEt when pumping the throttle.
Tried a map from a very helpfull person here on Snowest, and it helped but still not good.

Bought the Autotune kit from Dynojet and got to test it this weekend, only problem is I'm very unsure of the AFR target map. But with this kit and new map it got my sled running the best for now. Yet again DEt will occure, hoping to test some more before the snow is gone.

Another note is the increase in coolant temperature I got.
Stock it would hold 50-51 deg cel, and with the kit 58-59.
Did the "$28 upgrade" and now my temps stay at a low 44-45 deg cel.

All in all happy with the power gains when she runs whitout DEt, it will for sure be worth it when I get it sorted!

Jkinzer · Apr 16, 2013

mtnrider said:
can you post the changes you made to stage 4 mapping

i do not have a map that i am comfortable giving out, the best thing to do is to get an afr installed and go off your readings, have been hearing good things about the auto tune set ups as well

mtncat1 · Apr 16, 2013

:face-icon-small-hapI have ran my 13 with slp pipe and rkt drop in kit,this kit worked great,but would det with regular 91 non eht. fuel.added about 2 gallons of 104 to each tank and has never hit det since.engine is much smoother with rkt kit and can beat my 2 friends 12s in a up hill drag race by a couple of sled lengths,this dosen't sound like much but i out weight them by at least a 100lbs.the only issue i am having is not getting enough rpm pulls about 7900 on most climbs in heavey spring snow(i havn't been able to ride n good snow because i puchased it last month).I think if i get the rpm up a couple hundred more closer to 8200 it will gain a nother sled length.this is what my sled needed to compete better with my friends.i've always need a edge to compensate for my weight.:face-icon-small-hap:face-icon-small-hap

mtncat1 · Apr 16, 2013

Thanks jeremy for all your help i didn't buy my kit from you but still helped me greatly thanks again:face-icon-small-hap

Jaynelson · Apr 16, 2013

Hopefully I'm not off topic with this...

You guys installing these in motors with some miles on them, are you doing any cylinder prep i.e. honing? Or just replacing pistons and away ya go? Just curious

Jkinzer · Apr 16, 2013

all of them should be honed, even if new replacement in my opinion

ditch1000 · Apr 21, 2013

I have about 350 miles on my drop in kit with a 13.1 head riding between 2000' and 5000' here in BC. When I had the kit installed by a local mechanic, I'd doubt he honed the cylinders. The kit did run alot hotter; I'd run 123-127 most times stock but when the kit was installed it would run 135-150 and the rpms would fall off to 7500 on a hard pull with the temps spiking to 145. I did the $28 upgrade and now it runs 109-116 and the rpms do not fall off anymore. I'm pulling 1.5 grams more weight up to 8400 rpms. I may increase the weight from 65.5 to 66.3 just to drop the rpms a little, but the kit is said to be run at a true 8300-8500 rpms.
I have a tied secondary, I ran it on the 73-57-60 angle at first and the kit pulls good. I tried the 73-55-60 angle last ride to see if there was any difference; the sled did not pull as hard in the bottom and mid range with this angle. Also on the trail out it hit DET in the midrange at 1/4 throttle or less. I shut the sled down and let it reset, fired it up again and it was fine. I think at 73-55-60 the engine is not loaded enough.....I'm just gonna switch the helix back to 73-57-60 as nothing else changed to make the sled detonate!!
Other than that, there is a huge amount less vibration and the sled pulls like a train with the 73-57-60 helix. I think I'll try Kelsey's helix next year to see if I can get a little extra out of the clutching. So overall, I'm pleased with the kit and would do it again.

Dizzle · Apr 21, 2013

Eivel said:
\ but still would DEt when pumping the throttle.

Not trying to sound like an ***, but why do people throttle pump anyway? Every video I watch, and everytime I go to the mountain, people are always constantly in and out of the throttle and it has never made sense to me. Is it better on the clutch or something as opposed to keeping a steady throttle? Is it better on the belts?

Eivel · Apr 21, 2013

Dizzle said:
Not trying to sound like an ***, but why do people throttle pump anyway? Every video I watch, and everytime I go to the mountain, people are always constantly in and out of the throttle and it has never made sense to me. Is it better on the clutch or something as opposed to keeping a steady throttle? Is it better on the belts?

Sometimes to maintain a good and controllable sidehill it's an absolute necessity to be in and out of the throttle alot.

Anyway, I would like my sled to take every throttle position, load and abuse without hitting DEt. If it does, the tune (not just the ecu) isnt right.

rmkboxer · Apr 21, 2013

Dizzle said:
Not trying to sound like an ***, but why do people throttle pump anyway? Every video I watch, and everytime I go to the mountain, people are always constantly in and out of the throttle and it has never made sense to me. Is it better on the clutch or something as opposed to keeping a steady throttle? Is it better on the belts?

I do it so my engine does not burn down, 2 strokes do not like being held in mid when cruising. I have a dragon and I know there is a lean spot so I just ride all my 2 strokes this way to keep having any problems with mid range burn downs

Dizzle · Apr 21, 2013

Ahhhh I didn't know that about 2 strokes..

Skadi · Apr 23, 2013

I also HAVE to do it on the trail or my sled will overheat... but yeah, I was always told to not hold the throttle in one position for days on end or you risked burn down... maybe that's an old school way of thinking with carbed machines but I don't think so, cause I heard there was a lean spot in the 6 grand range on the Pros too...

mostly for me it's the over-heat factor on the trail, and once I get in and get off the trail I do it to bring my sled to the position I want it...

Trenchmaster · Apr 23, 2013

I have an EGT gage on my 07 600 RMK it will definently get hot if you hold the throttle steady in the mid range. Give her a quick blip on the throttle and she cools right down, the extra fuel must help cool the cylinders. This is a carbureted sled though. I'm very interested in the results of the RKT kit as my 2011 RMK vibrates enough to worry me!

Reg2view · Apr 23, 2013

In a 2 stroke, fuel is the primary source of combusion chamber cooling.

Blipping the throttle isn't done by tuners or old racers on tuned sleds for attention, it's how you keep EGTs down. You're dumping extra cool fuel directly into the combustion chamber and down the pipe. FWIW.

Rk Tek Drop in kit RESULTS

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