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800BB
CDI re flashed
CDI re flashed
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800BB will not rev out
- Thread starter Big_T_Roose
- Start date
M
rpms
what do the tops of the pistons lok like is it lean or rich that mite be to much weight try some other weights
what do the tops of the pistons lok like is it lean or rich that mite be to much weight try some other weights
M
rpms
the temp sensor can limit rps its not hot is it
the temp sensor can limit rps its not hot is it
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mite be to much weight try some other weights[/QUOTE said:
sure sounds like a bad temp sensor
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If you are just reving it out on a stand then you really wont get a good idea of what the clutching is doing. Just a thought before you go tearing into something.
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The tach is accurate.
The chassis is new to me
The motor I ran in a pro x chassis last year and it ran great
I did the swap myself
I think it is too much weight. I looked and they are 10 66
It sounds real good at low end and then sounds like it just cannot pull the weight.
C
sounds like a timing thing... so temp sensor or cdi box.
DET?
T
Ignition related most likely. Either CDI or a temp sensor deal, DET hookup, TPS deal. Something probably wasn't hooked up correctly in transition.
10-66 isn't that heavy, I run em on a 700BB w/ twins in my IQR. At low elevation though.
You aren't running vacuum on your carbs most likely, so your jetted WAY fat right now but that won't keep your R's down.
6000 R's is pretty much the rpm range that an ignition limp mode will give ya. Just enough to get ya home basically.
I once had a twin pipe flange break and it dropped the R's down but you could hear it almost immediately.
10-66 isn't that heavy, I run em on a 700BB w/ twins in my IQR. At low elevation though.
You aren't running vacuum on your carbs most likely, so your jetted WAY fat right now but that won't keep your R's down.
6000 R's is pretty much the rpm range that an ignition limp mode will give ya. Just enough to get ya home basically.
I once had a twin pipe flange break and it dropped the R's down but you could hear it almost immediately.
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I am with Ten-zing.
I bet the carb vents aren't hooked up to the air box
I bet the carb vents aren't hooked up to the air box
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I am with Ten-zing.
I bet the carb vents aren't hooked up to the air box .
Your prox would have had the vents into the airbox. I forgot to hook mying back up on my IQR with a 700 once after having the air box out and it wouldn't rev out would sound just like the DET or temp limp-in was kicking in. Would fall on its face anything after 6000RPM. Thats about the easiest thing to forget to do when making a swap as you did.
I bet the carb vents aren't hooked up to the air box .
Your prox would have had the vents into the airbox. I forgot to hook mying back up on my IQR with a 700 once after having the air box out and it wouldn't rev out would sound just like the DET or temp limp-in was kicking in. Would fall on its face anything after 6000RPM. Thats about the easiest thing to forget to do when making a swap as you did.
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I am running pod filters and I ran those on my prox and had no problems. Also I am running a 155 track. There is no det sensor. Can i unhook the tep sensor and run it that way to test it? Can i do that with tps?
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Well I certainly wouldn't say it is DEFINATELY the temp sensor, but they are cheap to replace and are quite prone to failure so no good reason not to put one on and try it. No, you can't just unhook it. The reason I was asking about the motor being new in the chassis is because I was wondering what you did for a pipe? If you modified your own pipe to fit in there it might be what's giving you grief. You can't go cutting bending and removing material/ length from a pipe and have it work the same. But maybe you know that and your pipe's good?
If the temp sensor and the pipe are o.k. I'd look at the timing, are you using the same ignition for that motor? All the right wiring/coil?
Then if you haven't changed anything else goin from one chassis to the next and it ran good before, time to do a compression test, look at your reeds, fuel pump, carbs
Like I said 66 gram weights are not enough to drop 2000 rpm, that motor shouldn't have any trouble with them if it's in good shape
If the temp sensor and the pipe are o.k. I'd look at the timing, are you using the same ignition for that motor? All the right wiring/coil?
Then if you haven't changed anything else goin from one chassis to the next and it ran good before, time to do a compression test, look at your reeds, fuel pump, carbs
Like I said 66 gram weights are not enough to drop 2000 rpm, that motor shouldn't have any trouble with them if it's in good shape
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C
What???
You run the carb vents into the air box to go up about 1-2 jet sizes, but you don't have to run them into the air box, and 1-2 jet sizes will let you get up to 9000 rpm's if your sled could turn it.... Also, it runs leaner by not having the vents hooked up.
It has to be ignition related, like fouled plug, CDI, wrong ignition all together, DET not plugged in or faulty, OR sending it into limp mode. OR it should also be temp sensor. MY $ is on the temp sensor. :bump2:
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A factory pro x 800 has the vents from the carbs go to the air box. Thats how the carbs are set-up from the factory. Having them hang down makes it richer. The air box causes a vacuum on the float bowls when the engine is running. Which in turn makes it harder to pull fuel into the motor factory jetting.
So if they are unhooked it makes it rich. Because the fuel in the bowl is now at atmospheric pressure and doesn't have a vac source on it making it easier to go through the carb circuit and into the motor through the carb.
It doesn't just affect main jet. It will affect the jetting at all throttle positions.
But if he ran it without them hooked up before and it worked then thats not the problem.
Maybe I am wrong but thats how I have always looked at the difference in atmospheric vents and air box vents. Thats how a tempaflow works by putting a vac on the fuel bowls and leans the mixture. So taking the vac source away will richin it. Why do we use a tempaflow to lean mixture for warmer temps automatically.
Sorry for getting off topic.
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So if they are unhooked it makes it rich. Because the fuel in the bowl is now at atmospheric pressure and doesn't have a vac source on it making it easier to go through the carb circuit and into the motor through the carb.
It doesn't just affect main jet. It will affect the jetting at all throttle positions.
But if he ran it without them hooked up before and it worked then thats not the problem.
Maybe I am wrong but thats how I have always looked at the difference in atmospheric vents and air box vents. Thats how a tempaflow works by putting a vac on the fuel bowls and leans the mixture. So taking the vac source away will richin it. Why do we use a tempaflow to lean mixture for warmer temps automatically.
Sorry for getting off topic.
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I said that he basically is looking at an ignition issue.
But took notice of his stating he is running 460 mains. On a pod filtered 800, 460's are really fat jets. I think I run my 800 on a single pipe down to 380's?? I can check, but after he gets that "limp mode" ignition figured out, he should probably do some jetting changes.
But took notice of his stating he is running 460 mains. On a pod filtered 800, 460's are really fat jets. I think I run my 800 on a single pipe down to 380's?? I can check, but after he gets that "limp mode" ignition figured out, he should probably do some jetting changes.
A
did u change the coolant. air bubble. overheating??? maybe its not a temp sensor issue maybe ur just air locked. are your coolers warm or cold when the sled is warmed up?
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The jets are just in there because that is what I ran with a single pipe in my pro x and I have not been able to go out and ride to do the tunning. Collant is bled corectly.
I was working with it tonight and it revs to 6500 and sounds like it wants to go.
I was working with it tonight and it revs to 6500 and sounds like it wants to go.
