Ski Pressure

KDD · Dec 26, 2009

I have a Iqr with a 600ho, Holtz front end with Fox Floats. The rear is a 151" Rmk rail with Holtz arms and Fox Zero coil over shocks.
I would seem that my sled like to nose dive alot.I don't know if that is how the IQR handle or is my suspension not set up right. I would like the front end to come up more less ski pressure, but I do not remember what I need to do to get it that way. Do I loosen up the front oil over shock or make it more stiff. How much air PSI should i Run in the fox Floats up front? Any info would help. I am a larger guy about 240 so i like the rear suspension a little stiffer for bumps.
Thanks again.

mtn junkie · Dec 26, 2009

try loosing up the limiter straps on the front of your skid and maybe add a little air to your front end do one thing at a time so you know what each adjustment is doing for you. you can also loosen the back coil over and get better weight transfer

KDD · Dec 26, 2009

I am sure that the limet straps are all the way out. I will try and put more air in the shocks do you know what psi is a good base line? Does the front shock have anything to do with it, like how stiff i run them I just cranked them both up to handle my weight. I don't too much suspension sag when i ride it the snow builds up and adds even more weight but it just seem the sled likes to nose dive.
Thanks

JET FUEL · Dec 27, 2009

Get us pictures of where your rear suspension is set at. If its been installed in the wrong place it will cause that no matter what you do to the springs or straps.(I'm more interested in the front arm, the back is easy to locate after the front is set)
It took me a couple tries before I got mine dialed in. I ended up pulling the skid and track out of my buddies dragon to get the dimensions I needed for the front suspension arm.

meathooker · Dec 27, 2009

one other point:

240lb rider + 600cc motor + 151" track + rider forward sled = skis on ground

you might get it better than it is now but i wouldn't expect it to pack the skis on demand

KDD · Dec 28, 2009

Here are some of the photos of when I built the sled this fall. I have never rode this style of sled before. My last sled was a 02 RMK 800 151" so this seem like it likes to nose dive. Maybe with me being larger or "big Bone" I should get used to it doing it. I thought there would be some trick. Can anyone tell me how much air they run in there air shocks up front just so i can use it for a base line.
Thanks again.

meathooker · Dec 28, 2009

sweet looking sled.

your front arm looks like it is mounted too high. I will try to get measurements off of my sled tomorrow.

die hard poo · Dec 29, 2009

Ya I would drop your front mount hole 3/4" down and see if it tranfers better.

KDD · Dec 29, 2009

Thanks for the compliments and the info. So both of you both agree the front should moved down. I can do that this weekend any more info on how much would be great. On my RMK we did that it was like 1" in the front and 2" in the rear. I took some pictures of the sled in my grage tonight they are not the greatest with the lighting but you get he picture.
I also took a couple of pictures of my RZR on tracks, with those on there is not a hole lot that can stop it. Thanks again and any more info would be GREAT !!!.

shoobear · Jan 3, 2010

did u use the stock front hole for the skid?

KDD · Jan 3, 2010

yes should I drill a hole 1" down from the stock? Also what should I run for PSI in my fox floats?

Thanks

JET FUEL · Jan 4, 2010

The hole will be aprox 3/4inch down. I think the plate on the inside of the tunnel already has a pilot hole drilled at this location, if memory serves me right.
Just pull your skid and drill it out from inside the tunnel. And double check your center to center on you suspension arms and make sure they are correct after you move the front one down. It shouldn't affect it, but it never hurts to check and the wrong center to center can effect it too.

One other thing I did was remove the block from under the steering post and added a riser. This brought my bars back and moved me back a little which helped transfer some of the rider forward weight back a bit.

Hesdale · Jan 4, 2010

wouldn't you also want to take the dolly's off and let the sled sit flat on the ground and see where the pressure is on the track? see which lugs have the most weight on them

KDD · Jan 5, 2010

Ok will do I will look for the pre drilled hole. And also try riding with the steering block out. Thanks for all of the info. By the way when the sled is down on the flat ground the front of the side is pointing up hill, so making the skid more level will give me more rear weight transfer? Thanks agin

JET FUEL · Jan 6, 2010

Keep us posted.

KDD · Jan 10, 2010

Well I removed the skid today and found that there was a pilot hole on the inside of the tunnel 3/4" down from my stock hole so I drilled it out and intalled the skid. That took all of the slack out of the track making it fiddle string tight. I went out for a test ride just to see if makes a differance and boy does it ever it would pick up the front end no problem at all. Even when I stand far forward. So back to the shop I go to pull the skid. I have 144 rails with SLP rail extensions to make it a 151. So I cut into the front of the rails 7/8" and move the rail extensions and big wheel kit forward and reinstalled it. Now I have all the track slack in I need.
I also run anit-rachets by the way so I like it loose. Out for the second test run and it's awesome thanks to all for the info. It's things like that make the sled or break it. And you guys help me make it.
THANKS AGAIN !!!!

The Bob · Jan 13, 2010

Very glad this thread has been started. I am installing a 144" RMK skid in my IQR also. I love the idea of the front mount being 3/4 down, because in fact I already have that hole drilled (would be nice to use it so my tunnel doesn't start looking like swiss cheese). But, is this the correct mounting? I know Jet Fuel has chimed in here and over on HCS where I started a thread. Jet Fuel I am sure knows there is another member on HCS that says to do 8.5" back from the center of the drive shaft and something like 1.5"s up. He is very knowlegable and builds some nice IQR's. I am just wondering if mounting this 3/4" down from the stock hole puts it where he is describing. I am just trying to get this perfect, I kinda mounted my 136" in the wrong spot in front when doing my 141" setback, way to much front skid pressure.

JET FUEL · Jan 13, 2010

I just measured where my front mount is in comparison to the measurements that pete gave you....they aren't even close.....the one I gave you puts the skid an inch back from his measurements, not saying his are wrong, but there is more than one way to beat your neighbors dog.
If you already have the hole drilled for the measurement I gave you than just try it you've got nothing to lose since the holes are already there.

My bro took some pics with his crackberry as soon as he sends them to me I'll resize and post them up.

poorider · Jan 13, 2010

Every different possible skid used with every different possible a-arm and shock combo will mean the mounting holes will need to be in a different position on a per build basis. KDD never did say which rmk rails he was using with which corresponding model of holz suspension, or which a-arms. All he did say was that he was having a problem with ski lift and the friendly folks here helped him find a remedy.

Bottom line is there is NO universally ideal place to drill the front mount when you are building a custom sled, there are simply too many factors involved.

I personally used an outdated x-tra lite 151 modified suspension for my iqr, because it was available, and I used the factory a-arms. There is no way I could have drilled out the stock hole 3/4" lower and had this combo work. There is also no way it would have worked with tblade's measurements of 1.5" up. Believe it or not my front mount is actually below the running board, which was dictated by the rear skid and the ride hieght of the front end.

For you guys building these things with no real baseline measurements to start with, this will give you a really accurate starting point......

Assemble the sled completely ready to ride, but without the rear suspension mounts drilled. Suspend the sled on level ground by the rear bumper with the skiis sitting on the floor. Loosen off the track tensioners most of the way and lift the rear bumper to the height you want it to sit at. pull the skid back all the way and mark the holes for drilling. This will give you a fairly accurate starting point for where to mount your suspension and any fine tuning can be done afterwards

FactoryAir1 · Jan 18, 2010

JET FUEL said:
I just measured where my front mount is in comparison to the measurements that pete gave you....they aren't even close.....the one I gave you puts the skid an inch back from his measurements, not saying his are wrong, but there is more than one way to beat your neighbors dog.
If you already have the hole drilled for the measurement I gave you than just try it you've got nothing to lose since the holes are already there.

My bro took some pics with his crackberry as soon as he sends them to me I'll resize and post them up.

Keep in mind my measurements WILL NOT come close to yours because I'm running the AVID extended chaincase. The c-c between the jackshaft and driveshaft on my sled is 9.25". This is REALLY going to throw off any comparison. My measurements were direct from Matt @ Holz and applied them to the center of my D&R'd driveshaft, NOT the stock driveshaft location. And just in case anyone is wondering I'm running the Holz coil over (non alpha) with 153 rails, and mounted with these specs, limiter straps adjusted correctly along with pre-load, it's bang-on as far as intial set-up. Sled hooks and goes, no trench, 4-6" of lift under HARD acceleration and corners incredibly well with very little effort.

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