06 IQR 700 NEED CLUTCHING AND JETTING INPUT.

T-LOC107 · Nov 25, 2012

So I have a 2006 IQR 700 that has a lot of random things done.
Stock motor is a 2000 700 a Non-Ves with oil injection.
Mikuni TM-40 Carbs I believe? They are out of a 2002 700 xc I think?
Vforce 3 reeds and K&N air pods with chargers.
98 440 red rocket cdi that has been reprogrammed I believe?
Nology Hot spark plug wires.
Aaen single tuned pipe hand fit for my application.
Stock track with studs and stock rail length.
Mn elevation.

I will be tearing my carbs and clutches off soon to see what I have in them because I can't remember anymore. Also I changed the gears closer to a 600rr iqr trail sled. Will have to see on gears also. Any ideas would be great!

Looks like from what I can see the stock jetting should be #460 main, pilot jet #45, starter pilot jet #145 and air pilot .8. I was told to go to .9 if they offer or 1.0 if not? Any ideas?

I put a 1000 miles on as it was and all worked and ran fine was just fat and a little doggy just not snappy. However it started good and ran good but would load up if idles to long and ran great at night or when pretty cold. Plugs are black and kind of wet so I assume I have a ways to go? I am thinking starting with dropping two main sizes and one on pilot and go up on air pilot to .9 or 1.0? It starts just fine so I think I will leave the starter pilot jet?

Am I close? What would you do and what are you thoughts?
Thanks in advance.

T-LOC107 · Nov 25, 2012

Something seems to hold back topend also.

I also think my helix I was told to get isn't working in this setup as I had hoped for? BTW I have a TSS-04 roller secondary clutch also. If anyone lives local and has parts we can try to see if I want to buy let me know? I will throw you a couple extra bucks for that added privilege so I don't have a bin of clutch parts when done. I had this set up in a standard indy chassis before with a 121 1.25 track with studs. Hope this is enough info but ask more questions if not. I think it should be obvious I am trail riding. Thanks

T-LOC107 · Nov 26, 2012

My Current specs I am using now. Please help

It seems as if now my motor wont pull the weights on top end or the helix angle is too much to pull? I ma not sure just guessing really based on past experiences. My entire clutch set up worked great with same motor in a standard chassis with a 1.25 track with studs and now went to IQR stock track with studs and think the added tack paddle along with different gears threw it all off? Thoughts? I will try lighter weights to start and it that doesnt get my top rpm and top speed back would you go to helix next?

Current setup.
Primary weights 10-66 and white square spring not sure if other marks on spring?

Secondary clutch is Team Roller Tss-04 with black spring and looks like a varible helix 70-42-46 and other number on helix is 70-44-46.

Belt is a Polaris 3211104

Mikunki Tm-40 Rack style carbs with 430 mains and rest is stock at 45 pilot, 145 starter pilot and air jet at .8. I cant get the air pilots to come out to swap either. Also my primary clutch bushing is froze in place it seems. Can't get it out to get my puller in to pop off to clean and swap parts etc.

PLEASE HELP I am at a loss.:jaw: THANKS

Twostroke · Nov 26, 2012

Change only one thing at a time so you can keep track. Sounds like you could be way to rich.

T-LOC107 · Nov 28, 2012

Twostroke said:
Change only one thing at a time so you can keep track. Sounds like you could be way to rich.

Thats what I thought also just hate to go to lean but not showing any color on plugs yet so feel I need to keep going leaner till I get some color.

Ten-Zing · Nov 28, 2012

Your mains are way too high. I don't have any real numbers to reference anymore but I do know that you are using rack Miks that were designed to operate on a vacuum signal from the airbox. You don't have that vac now, so your mains drop a TON for that reason.

10-66's? I had a 800VES in an IQR and it wouldn't pull that on a SLP single, port matched and blue printed motor with stock ignition curve and SLP domes. I'd think more like 10-60's for your application, if not less.

This is all very random, just thought I'd let ya know it seems you are real far out from what I've seen used. I don't know the TEAM clutch, but be prepared to go with shallower angles, and less spring. Your primary spring finishing rate should be low, lower than the blk/grn at least. I think I went with almond.

T-LOC107 · Nov 28, 2012

Ten-Zing said:
Your mains are way too high. I don't have any real numbers to reference anymore but I do know that you are using rack Miks that were designed to operate on a vacuum signal from the airbox. You don't have that vac now, so your mains drop a TON for that reason.

10-66's? I had a 800VES in an IQR and it wouldn't pull that on a SLP single, port matched and blue printed motor with stock ignition curve and SLP domes. I'd think more like 10-60's for your application, if not less.

This is all very random, just thought I'd let ya know it seems you are real far out from what I've seen used. I don't know the TEAM clutch, but be prepared to go with shallower angles, and less spring. Your primary spring finishing rate should be low, lower than the blk/grn at least. I think I went with almond.

I figured that much on the jets from what I could see. So I will drop them down prob closer to 350 I think? About the clutch weights I think you are off in my experiences with these motors. I pulled 10-68's in standard indy chassis with same motor and taller gears but less track. I assume you maybe think I am running in the mountains? I am flatland mn 0-3k elevation.

Now with my IQR being it was twice the track and was concerned about it pulling those weights I geared it down a little lower and dropped it back from 10-68 to 10-66. I have a set of 10-64 but thought those were for mountains from the rmk I had with same motor? Can't remember all the details etc.

So currently my set up is
mains=430
pilots=45
starter=145
slide=1.5
needle=57

Will change to something more like this from what I am finding?
mains=350-380
pilot=50-55
starter=145
slide= Not sure about 1.0, 1.5, or 2.0? ( yr 01=2.0 & yr 02=1.5) was told 1.0
Needle=57

I think that will get me in the ball park. 02 has ves and tps sensor. Mine does not. You talked about vaccum pressure from air box. Can I add a spigot like air box had on my filter and epoxy spigot in place and then my jetting at 430 may be close? If that is the best way I would just do that? Could't I just tap the end of the filters for vaccum lines? I would like to go back to a air box one day. Thanks for your input!

ducttape · Nov 28, 2012

I had a 04 700 in my IQR with pod filters mostly stock and I was running 420 mains at sea level and 340 at 8000 feet. 144x2 track and was pulling 58g weights at 8000 and up. don't remember what I had for springs or helix

Ten-Zing · Nov 30, 2012

My 800VES pulled 10-62's in MN at best. These motors don't pull anywhere near the weight vs. any other chassis. My 800 came out of a Pro-X pulling 10-66's and 10-62 is where it ended up. I'm betting 10-60's would have ran better but I sold it with the 10-62's.

I think jetting was 360-380 range. No point in vacuuming the pods as jetting to compensate gets the desired result. I think the 2002 Mik carb racks benefitted from a PAJ of 1.0? Dunno.

Throw any and ALL logic you are trying to bring over from how this motor acted in the last chassis, it's pointless. Once I did that I actually got to a decent starting point that I didn't feel bad selling the sled to someone with the clause that it still needed "tuning, suspension set-up, and clutching" to get it all right. Suspension tuning once you get the motor to pull hard is going to be the next thing. Because having it right when it's running like a dog won't be right when you get the clutching right.

T-LOC107 · Nov 30, 2012

No sweat I think I got it! All I was looking for was a starting point based on last set up and now I think I figured it out. My problems are a combo of things I am pretty sure. One needle was missing the white plastic washer. May be part of my issue. I just threw in some jets I had laying around quick and never tuned until now so I was 5 jet sizes too fat and maybe more. Need to tune and see. Clutching is close may just need a couple little tweaks. So I am just sorting through the little stuff now is all. Gears are close also. May need some little tweaks to tie all together etc. No biggie. Thanks

Ten-Zing said:
My 800VES pulled 10-62's in MN at best. These motors don't pull anywhere near the weight vs. any other chassis. My 800 came out of a Pro-X pulling 10-66's and 10-62 is where it ended up. I'm betting 10-60's would have ran better but I sold it with the 10-62's.

I think jetting was 360-380 range. No point in vacuuming the pods as jetting to compensate gets the desired result. I think the 2002 Mik carb racks benefitted from a PAJ of 1.0? Dunno.

Throw any and ALL logic you are trying to bring over from how this motor acted in the last chassis, it's pointless. Once I did that I actually got to a decent starting point that I didn't feel bad selling the sled to someone with the clause that it still needed "tuning, suspension set-up, and clutching" to get it all right. Suspension tuning once you get the motor to pull hard is going to be the next thing. Because having it right when it's running like a dog won't be right when you get the clutching right.

T-LOC107 · Nov 30, 2012

Only thing I am struggling with is locating and taking out this paj .8 so I can swap it to the 1.0 like mentioned above. 01 has .8 and 2.0 slides. 02 was updated with 1.5 slides and .9 paj but 1.0 paj is the best. I have the 1.5 slides and .8 paj because I can't find it or take it out. 380 mains now and was 430. Pilots are 45 stock and went to 55 and left the starter jet alone. Fuel screw 1.5 turns out for now. This is just my starting point until I can make some runs and go from there. So when I can I will head to the lake with a bucket full of jets, weights, springs and gears. Then I should be good after a day of tinkering I would hope. Can anyone take a picture of paj location and a paj. I even brought carbs to a local Polaris dealer and they couldn't tell me. Marv Jorgenson looked at them for you who may know him?

T-LOC107 · Jan 6, 2013

So you live in mn? Where abouts? Ok so the other day I tried a ts 98 roller team clutch, a cat roller secondary and my tss 04 team and also my button clutch. None of that seem to make a difference in regard of rpm fall off on top. I tried lighter weights and diff primary spring also. I went from 10-62.5 dalton weights to polaris 10-60 weights and swapped out the red epi spring for a black white spring. That seemed to help from a take off to 6k rpm or so and no hesitation there but top end was still same. So think I am getting closer slowly but surely. I know my primary is worn and just checked it a week ago and was told it isnt in best shape but should be fine for now. Since then I replaced cover bushing but that is it so far.

T-LOC107 · Jan 6, 2013

Here is a list of parts I have and could try.
1.)Primary clutch springs, red epi, black white, white, almond square, silver blue, gold

2.)Secondary springs for team, black, black white and a red one but not sure if has second color and may be a stock spring for many. Also have one more but not sure what color cuz is in a clutch so will have to see.

3.)Gears I have are 19, 22, 39, 40, and 45 slipper. Also have gears in sled but can't remember what they are or what would be ideal. Currently sled does at least 80 mph top speed even with only 7000-7500 rpms on top. Stock snow cross track with studs. I will check my gears tomorrow to confirm and will try some different combos. What is best gear ratio for this chassis? I would like some more top speed but not sure possible with that track?

4.)Helixes I have and could try, 62-48-46er, 62-46-46, 66-44-56er, 54-42-f-er, 62-48-46, 70-42-46, 70-44-46 also have one more helix in sled but not sure what it is and will report tomorrow.

5.) Button clutch with yellow epi spring and tried in third hole with helix 46-36 progressive cut. No extra parts for it though.

T-LOC107 · Jan 6, 2013

The other day I tried some of a buddies stuff and results on top rpm didnt change much if any at all?

Tried a Cat roller secondary with yellow spring and also that button clutch set up I mentioned above. Also tried the tss 04 team with one of these helixes but cant remember which 70-42-46, 70-44-46. Also tried a tss 98 team clutch but not sure on spring but helix was 66-44-46.

I like a solid back shift so when I come out of a corner I have instant power. It seems now the back shift is way doggy and lags! I am going to check carb slides and make sure Venturis are clear of the slides at wot also tomorrow. I may even try a buddies primary clutch if I cant get it by playing with clutching etc. Just keep banging my head and at a loss and need some input please. Thanks a lot guys!

T-LOC107 · Jan 6, 2013

Also seems like when I really squeeze the sit out of the throttle on top end sled keeps speeding up but rpms dont seem to increase much if at all. Kinda seems like my thumb warmer may even hit rubber grip before wot? Will check a bunch of this tomorrow and will inspect primary more also for wear etc. I want to get a holtzman atacc and fit my airbox also and dump air pods because some say they take in hot engine air and loose power and top rpms because of it also some say rich jetting may do that but I am sure I cant be that far off! Just want to rule things out one by one I guess till I get to the root of all evil.

Current jetting now is 380 mains, 45 pilots and have 55 I could try also. Went to 1.0 paj and 145 starter. Checked needles and slides and all against a stock 02 700 xc and all is right. So I think it must be in my clutching? I dont have the air screws just fuel screws. Where should fuel screws be set at? Would that affect top rpm? I also have a red black and also a black white team springs. I also put in 10-60 weights and a black white spring. Based on all my parts I have and my sled what do you think the best combo would be? Thanks again

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06 IQR 700 NEED CLUTCHING AND JETTING INPUT.

T-LOC107

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