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skinz front end

skunk75

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The sled I just bought has the skinz front end with raptors. The guy I got it from stated there weren't any instructions. He wasn't sure he got it together correctly. Do these pics look correct?

How much preload do you run? Where do you run the clickers?

The sled has a tremendous amount of ski pressure. My son's stock 1100t is way easier to boondock and side hill with.

The front end also has c and a skis.

Any ideas? The sled has kmod with raptors rear skid and 300hp tune from evo with all of their goodies. It rides like a tank.

20141229_145350_zps850f7a59.jpg
 

0neoldfart

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Some adjustments are needed...

The front shocks should be mounted in the outboard hole - the increased ride height will add to heavy steering. I run Polaris Grippers as the ski pressure is greatly diminished as well. I can't comment how much preload to run on front shocks as I am using Evol R's with my Skinz front end. The Skinz degign actually adds a bit of ski pressure due to the longer wheelbase over stock. After some testing last year, I went with a 224# straight rate front track shock spring with 1" of preload, the Kmod skid mounted in the 2013 front arm lower hole. I may play with front track shock preload depending on snow conditions, but overall I'm happy with the setup thus far (I like a light front end). Hope this helps you.
 

skunk75

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Thank you!

What position do you run your limiter strap on the kmod. Currently this sled is set in the loosest position.
 

0neoldfart

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Limiter is set at 8" free length

I noticed from your other pics it looks as though the coupling is set to the max - the numbers should face the scissor, in your pic I see #1 facing up.
I made a few observations in your other post.
 

skunk75

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So I should turn the number 1 to "touch" the black arm?

Thank you so much for your help!!
 

0neoldfart

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yes

#1 touching the arm for boondocking, increase for climbing steep stuff. The coupler block makes a huge difference depending on setting.
 

0neoldfart

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BTW...

Bear in mind I like a light front end, and usually steer with running board input. The only time I run my coupling blocks higher the #1 (with the Skinz front end) is if I'm pointed up something ugly. But for boondocking in the trees, I personally prefer #1 (with the Skinz front end). My sled is a 2013 M1100T with Evo Big Chute multi-map, and a X3 track.
If you are trying to make the 1100T as nimble in the trees as a 2 stroke, it simply isn't going to happen - not what the sled was designed for. It can be done, but there will be a lot of sweating involved, as rider effort is considerably higher.
 

0neoldfart

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Thanks should go to Kevin

Kevin (Kmod) helped me immensely when dialing this sled in, even though he had very little experience with the Skinz front end. His after sales service is second to none, and even returned my calls after hours or on weekends. I learned a LOT about suspension setup due to his patience. My wife's Pro has his suspension front and rear, and she'll never own another sled without his suspension after riding it... so a public "Thank you" to the man who made it happen.
 

JustBoostIt

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All of what 1OF said. We have conversed on the subject many times, and with Kevin as well, and I rode with Kevin when I had my sled with the Skinz front end. I found I rarely rode on more than #1 also. I thought #1 felt like what 2.5 would have felt like with a stock front end. I ended up putting on a set of 8" Slydogs at the customer request. I rode it for a day with them and that was quite a help compared to the SLP PP. Running a loose strap and getting a stiffer front shock will be the key. Lots of adjustments all over that sled, it will just take some patience for the ride you are looking for.

Great sled btw, best of the best in parts. I remember Woody calling me a few times when they were building it.
 

F_ast

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I thought the front shocks required the orbital/ swivel bushings from the race evol shocks???

I would contact skinz to clarify. There certainly are not many guys out there rocking the skinz front end yet. But they are pretty
 

skunk75

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I was able to get the raptors turned over and mounted into the proper hole. I had to do some "fab" work to the boost hose cover on the left side to get the clicker to clear.

The front end worked very very well. Now I need to get the Kmod dialed in and some different handlebars.

Thanks for the help.
 

JustBoostIt

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Boost hose cover....yup some work required. I left my Raptors inverted and did a little work to the mounting brace on the lower arm to get the outside hole to work. More than one way to skin a Cat lol. I also had the WTA so the Raptors only fit inverted with the bulkhead cooler in the way.
 

skunk75

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Yes it did. Do you have pic's of how you modified the lower mounting bracket to mount your raptors with the res down?

BTW. Thank you for your help.
 

0neoldfart

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Not quite...

I believe OneOldFart got a set pressed into his Evols for his Skinz. They definitely need to be spherical for it.
I believe you can purchase the bushings and have them pressed in, but I ordered Evol R's specific for the kit through Fox. The EXIT shocks I was running previously ended up on my kid's M800 as I had clearance issues with the lower a-arm & spindle with the shocks. But I've NO complaints with the Evol R's, they work as well as the Exit X1 piggyback units I had previously.
 
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