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Arctic Cat: M Series 2005-Current, all models in the M-series chassis
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Old 12-18-2017, 02:07 AM
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Default C5 voodo bonkers stuff

Folks

Hey, I wanna wish everyone applicable a merry xmas season and whatnot. Been out on the 09 C5 I was blabbing about issues last week just about every day till I solved that plugged fuel injector issue. Thing is a blast. I get the lack of power idea now. a 1.5 track doesn't quite bite well in the fluffy stuff. Its a trail boss though, and I love how smooth it is. Don't throw it in the deep snow without momentum. Thinking of putting a decal on the skid plate.. Kitty loves to fly...

I do have a re-occurring power delivery glitch thats been repeatable for the last couple of days/rides. Yes, its a suzuki.. I know their kinda temperamental and not without finicky problems but its fine, I forgive it. Curious puzzle though. Let me first explain the engine setup, then the glitch circumstances.

Current synopsis/sled setup details/circumstances.

MY altitude is 600m above sea level. Sub-zero temp range -5 to -15. Fires from cold on the 3rd pull. Idle is in the 2300 range for a bit till she warms then settles 1690 1740 ish. TPS set solid at .700 .701vdc. Fuel pressure is solid 42lbs and steady. 12 ohm off of injectors. Fuel is 'regular' octane (like a 30% ethanol mix, plus CDN winter additives). Compression is 99lbs (4 pulls) PTO side.. 100Lbs Mag side. (not proud of that, but top end planned b4 next season) Mag output is 13.7vdc-14.2vdc flutters but stabilizes above 2500rpm. Looks like system load is about 2volts in around there-bouts. All control devices work and check out on electrical, with good ground and nothing bypassed, incl the throttle safety switch. 1 Fuse good. Voltage Regulator is healthy. NO CODES. Coil wires are good, boots connections are good, signal wires to coil are in great shape. Plugs are brand new Br9eya's gap set at .030in both sides. Oil injection is set a tad bit heavy (line on lever to the top side of line on oil injector body. (avg allot colder up here) A line width. throttle is set slightly behind oil injectors (.5mm difference). Plugs are clean polished around the face, with dark brown on the ground electrode, black center electrode.. dark insulator.

Stock Y-pipe has oil residue in throat of it, but very light. Getting ideal burn conditions. No aftermarket pipe, stock expansion pipe. Seals/donuts seal properly, no missing springs or damaged flanges

Reed stopper height .315in Reeds seal, and no chips or pieces missing. No cracks and prefect seal. Intake boots/cages torqued to spec.

Cooling system is immaculate, and filled with Turbo Power
Extended Life1 16-374. PH 7.8 - 9.0 ORANGE

Vodoo wierd %^&* stuff I can't seem to figure out.

If I hit WOT, WARM. I can sustain a 5 second burst a total of 3 times. On the 3rd sustained burst.. after about 4 seconds the sled starts to miss-fire. Let up and the subtle Miss goes away, hammer it again and it missfires worse now, dragging the engine down. If I get off the WOT the miss goes away. For the remainder of any trip after that event, it will missfire if operated at same throttle position below 5500rpm for more then 10 seconds requiring a blip in the throttle to 'wake up' other cyl. If you WOT and then quickly let off then smash the throttle it MISSFIRES and literally falls on its face...on clockwork.

IF from a stop WOT is smashed after the first event, the sled does not rear up, it accelerates hap-hazardly coping with the non patterned missfire untill it hits about 5500 RPM then the fire demon inside decides it wants to come out and play some more.

When I come back to the shop and let the sled cool to cold. And start it up after.. warm up procedure etc (ides for 10 mins) I can do sustained WOT bursts 3 times as before, and on the 3rd time the mis-fire condition appears again, and just comes and goes as it pleases from then on. I have my ideas, but I want to know what others think.

When I cruise steady at 50Mph, there is no missfire. If I do NOT WOT the sled AT ALL.. the misfire does not appear, never. Period. I have tried and repeated this with success. It's odd voodoo bonkers stuff as I have nothing showing me even the slightest indication its not working.

TPS FLEXing out of position with the heat generated from REDLINE maybe? I know the TPS is a very very sensitive thing, and even so much as a 10th of a volt outside of its idle 'window' (between .690 and .710vdc) and it can put the ECU into a goddam &^%$ fit either leaning out the mix or dumping lots of fuel in. So I am not thinking it's totally shot, but rather a dodgy sweep (dead spot) and being worn out as its almost 10 years old, its probably growing a beard.

Stock clutching, stock diamond drive, stock belt.

Otherwise love the sled. What a thing.

What do you think is going on?

Last edited by FurtherOn; 12-18-2017 at 02:52 AM.
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Old 12-18-2017, 10:31 AM
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Default Fuel

Are you able to find some non ethanol fuel?? Those Suzukis run OK on 10% like we have here in the States but I question 30%. The early Cats had a connector on the ECU that needed to be disconnected if you used ethanol. I had a 2007 M8 and I recall that there was an ethanol plug on the ECU. 30% sure seems to me to be a strong mix. Not sure the Arctic Cat ECU fuel map can deal with that.
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Old 12-18-2017, 11:26 AM
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Default Ethanol

This may be leading you in the wrong direction but here is a link to some ethanol plug information. There is likely a "looped single wire plug" and not the blue plug on the ECU. Disconnect that and see if there is a difference. I think it may be a fuel problem or at least the ECUs ability to deal with 30% ethanol. I avoid using it at all (in anything) here in South Dakota. There is a lot more on this on the net I am sure.

https://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=110925

Last edited by Firetrail; 12-19-2017 at 01:37 PM.
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