Slydog attack ski

I'd like a post season picture of the Slydog as well.

I have no idea how it will work, but it appears the bottom keel/wear bar is flatter on the Slydog which could keep the ski in the gravel longer and make for harder steering at times.

I'm curious to know if the rear of the ski allows it to ride up over the snow better in reverse and if the rear taper cut outs make it counter steer easier.

Wow, it is noticeably larger then the Gripper. Wow, what a great looking ski. Looks tough and durable. Interesting color combo..I am interested to see what you have up your sleeve with your new Alpha.

Looks like they need to remove 2 lbs. of plastic ea.? Is this with the carbide? I would bet the non carbide is lighter and will not make any difference in the deep, unless the trails up are the main goal? I would bet these are over made to some extent, but probably in not the right places? The problem with these is if you hit anything the holes elongate where the bushings are installed if the back side is thin like the original sly dog skis? Hopefully they work as intended?

To me they look like the keel is not rockered as much which should make them easier to turn. Less strength needed. I also see they still have a bit of a snow induction feature which makes them track straighter.

Also, typically larger means better floatation in the deep. However, I am really not sure if there is more surface area on the snow or not.

1Mike900 said:

Looks like they need to remove 2 lbs. of plastic ea.? Is this with the carbide? I would bet the non carbide is lighter and will not make any difference in the deep, unless the trails up are the main goal? I would bet these are over made to some extent, but probably in not the right places? The problem with these is if you hit anything the holes elongate where the bushings are installed if the back side is thin like the original sly dog skis? Hopefully they work as intended?

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C&A Pro ski's are designed the same way with the lack of a mounting plate. They seam to hold up for the Snocross boys so I am assuming if the skis are mounted correctly they should be fine.

Too bad you cannot change the mounting locations forward or back to dial in your riding style! I have taken the original powder hounds and chopped the front off re-contoured the front with heat and re-mounted the grab handle to the 2nd bolt. Along with doing the Carls cut at the back outer edge. Then cut the back kick-up off and re-bent up-ward. Now I want to heat the whole ski bottom and re-curve slightly to not make it lay so flat. Does the Gripper have more curve all the way thru? If so then there is more lbs. per square in. to let it bite in hard packed, then once fully loaded in softer snow it floats? Also when I bent the ski with heat it cupped the front half to the first skag bolt side to side, so it helps compress and hold the snow underneath. Too bad the outer edge does not have a outer dropped edge for extra grip on a side hill, maybe worse or better? But then again they are universal from side to side as is, not left & right. Hopefully they work as designed? Mike

I hate the long flat keel and super stiff skis.
Reminds me of the C&A BX. No bueno for anything.
Lawn dart every ditch. Twitchy steering.... no thanks.

summ8rmk said:

I hate the long flat keel and super stiff skis.
Reminds me of the C&A BX. No bueno for anything.
Lawn dart every ditch. Twitchy steering.... no thanks.

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Some C&A's have twitchy steering but I can assure you with over 5000 miles on slydogs they are less twitchy and easier steering the any other ski I've tried.

The flatter profile helps. If you have a severe rocker all of the pressure point is put on the center of the carbide making them very twitchy and takes a lot of arm strength to steer. With a flatter profile the pressure is more distributed across the ski.

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