Engine Removal Time Estimate?

03RMK800 · Jul 17, 2011

I have a 2010 XP 800R and am thinking of pulling the engine.
I see quite a few people have pulled their XP engines, and I saw the threads the hood pieces, the plug that needs the wire removed, and oil cable circlips.

What I didn't see is how long its taking people to pull an engine. Please someone who is not a mechanic every day (me) know what I am looking at in terms of time.

Thanks!!!!

"I have seen men suffer glandular malfunctions." Rango the movie...

mbret2004 · Jul 17, 2011

Hmmm.......

It's hard to say. A mechanic that does this every day could do it in less than an hour including smoke breaks.

For the "week-end" warrior mechanic, depending on mechanical abilities, I would think 2.5 hours is reasonable. Don't let the time factor bother you. Take your time. I take a digital camera to the barn with me, snapping pics before I rip stuff apart. It saves a lot of headaches upon reassembly.

Good luck

frog · Jul 17, 2011

Remove the top end first, it will help tremendously with gaining access to the DPMhoses, oil lines, wiring etc. If you do it this way a couple of hours for removal is what it will take and no major frame/body work will need to be removed. You can leave the jackshaft bearing support in just remove the secondary/jackshaft and you will be good to go. Leave y-pipe on, remove ex. valve assm, carbs and inatke boots and the cyls will come right out accessing all the hard to reach parts. Remove recoil and primary and the bottom end should come right out.

revx827 · Jul 17, 2011

Just pulled mine out friday nite. 45 minutes.
Personally I prefer to remove the bearing support. Only takes a few minutes but then you don't have to work around it.
I also like to remove the topend seperate from the bottom.

I may have done this once or twice... (this month)

03RMK800 · Jul 17, 2011

Thanks-- The comments open up a lot of options for me, including doing it piecemeal, which might best accomplish what I need -- it might be enough to get the head off.

winter brew · Jul 18, 2011

Take alot of detailed pictures for wire/hose routing as you go....unless you have a second sled to look at.

Scandianels · Jul 18, 2011

Lots of photos

I know first hand that you'll need lot's of good photos for the hoses, cables, etc.

I am putting mine back in right now and scratched my head more than once trying to route hoses and cables.

(I think it comes out wayyyyy faster than it goes back in)

Good luck!

IQRIDR · Aug 6, 2011

I wanted to add that one of the most common things I hear from a guy putting his XP back together, when they call the shop- is that they can't remember which ports on the back of the case the 3 hoses go to. 1 is easy to tell from the length of the hose, the other 2 could go either way. So that is something to remember also for those looking to do this job.

joshkoltes · Aug 6, 2011

time

Its not the time it takes its the torture it causes! Pretty frustrating job. Takes lots of time and take lots of pics of where the hoses and wires are routed around the motor.

airmanf · Aug 6, 2011

Taking it out isn't too big of a job. Putting it back in for the first time can get tricky. Like the others said, take plenty of pictures. The first time you do it I would suggest either taking the carbs out completely or taking it out in two pieces. Be quick to plug the oil supply line with a 1/4 inch socket extension and the mess will be minimal. Good luck.

noxis · Aug 6, 2011

engine removal

when i do mine i take seceondary brace off and y pipe and pull whole engine with the hoses from the case and the electrics on the right still hooked to the motor and then label them with scotch tape after i get the motor out makes it easy to hook them back up and instal is a snap nothing to worry about super easy job to do

diamonddave · Aug 7, 2011

noxis said:
when i do mine i take seceondary brace off and y pipe and pull whole engine with the hoses from the case and the electrics on the right still hooked to the motor and then label them with scotch tape after i get the motor out makes it easy to hook them back up and instal is a snap nothing to worry about super easy job to do

X2...I also leave the oil cable hooked up to the pump.

ARMYSLEDER · Aug 7, 2011

diamonddave said:
X2...I also leave the oil cable hooked up to the pump.

We had to rebuild a 800R for a buddy in my garage this winter. I X3 on the oil cable not a easy thing to hook back up

i'llDooit · Aug 17, 2011

if ur waranty is up^ then while ur that deep into motor,,,,,,Block off plate and premix:light:not hard to doo,, and easier the next time without the oil cable there.:face-icon-small-win

trinitypowder · Sep 2, 2011

ARMYSLEDER said:
We had to rebuild a 800R for a buddy in my garage this winter. I X3 on the oil cable not a easy thing to hook back up

That's why I went to premix:face-icon-small-ton:whoo:

scratley · Sep 2, 2011

Doing an 860 now. Going to go with oil delete. Do you have to run the little bottle for crank bearings like back on the HO motors?

trinitypowder · Sep 2, 2011

Some guys use a bottle while others use a tube with a vent on the end. As I said, you'll go thru a bit of oil intially, and then she'll quit.

hivoltagesledhead · Sep 3, 2011

Anyone got pics of the block off plate and/or oil tube?

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Engine Removal Time Estimate?

03RMK800

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mbret2004

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frog

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revx827

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03RMK800

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winter brew

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Scandianels

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IQRIDR

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joshkoltes

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airmanf

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noxis

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diamonddave

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ARMYSLEDER

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i'llDooit

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trinitypowder

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scratley

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hivoltagesledhead

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