2013 Pro BD turbo tunning

How much boost is it currently set up for?

I run 50/50 av in mine on 10lbs, the cost of 110 race gas is double the cost of av and you only gain a few octane. I've yet to det on av and a little over 12lbs+ when I crank it. The less octane you can run without detonating the better throttle response you will have.

You will have to work directly with BD if you have questions, expect little to no knowledge or dealer support in the state of Oregon, that's unless you meet a rider with personal experience.

If you do end up having to tune it, it's not a whole lot different then tuning a carb machine, you need to be able to tell the difference in throttle position and which rpm's to adjust. But since the machine is older it should have had all the hiccups tuned out of it by now.

Dangerfield210 said:

Just picked up a low mileage pro with a Boondocker gtx2863 turbo set up. Intercooled with the BD controller and koso egt gauge. I don't know much about tunning with the controller box. would really like to get it dialed and have a good understanding of it before I go into the deep back country this year. Was told it does run race fuel. Is AV gas better? I usually ride 4K-8k feet. I plan to walk around the puyallup snowmobile show maybe ask questions to anyone wearing BD gear. Does anyone tune them in the Portland OR area? Thank you.:eyebrows:

Click to expand...

Boondocker has a technical support page that has the control box instructions...
http://www.boondockers.com/media/wy...olaris_RMK_Turbo_Control_Box_Instructions.pdf

They also have the starting numbers...
http://www.boondockers.com/media/wy...mbers/PolarisProRMK_11-15_StartingNumbers.pdf

I would recommend reading the control box instructions front to back so you have an idea for how things work should you need to make an adjustment on the snow.

Don't forget the control box is self adjusting for boost depending on altitude, thus...if your at 9 PSI at start up in your garage at home at low elevation, your going to be at a higher psi at riding elevation, contact Boondocker for a recommendation on octane for your riding area/boost. Odds are you can run straight av gas or a av/premium blend.

As far as tuning is concerned, I run an afr (air/fuel ratio) gauge so I can see where I need to adjust, then see the outcome on the gauge after making the adjustment. Just the way I prefer to tune. I wouldn't change any settings on your control box until you can somehow determine what needs adjustment if anything...Just plugging the starting numbers in might be a step backward if the previous owner already did the due diligence getting it tuned for that specific setup.

Dangerfield210 said:

Sounds good thanks for the replies. My other question is, I sucked out all the old oil in the turbo oil reservoir it looked a little milky like snow or condensation had got into it. Does anyone know how much oil should go back in these turbo tanks? Thought I read 16oz somewhere but I think that might be to much. Thank you

Click to expand...

I had noticed the oil color in my turbo reservoir as well, I'm going to guess condensation. As far as amount to fill it to, I noticed on my setup which is boost it, not BD, I fill it to the neck. I'd guess as long as your ~3/4 full you should be good. just look at the pick up and think of the angles the sled may be at, and think will it still get oil?

as far as fuel goes, I was running 25% av gas for 7# at about ~5500-6k feet. more so to be safe than anything. av gas is so much cheaper than race gas. race is easy twice as much and your sleds going to eat the fuel up down the trail when your not always on the power, so av is a great alternative. I'm going to try and taper back to straight 94 premium with out the av if possible.

An AFR gauge is really your best friend when your trying to tune. higher AFR numbers=lean and lower numbers are richer. Without one you just have to watch what specific ramp and throttle % range it's acting up at and pull a little fuel a number at a time and see if it's getting any better. Making too many fueling changes without a AFR gauge is kind of a game of roulette. Write down all the numbers in your box and compare them to Boondockers starting numbers just to see where you are.

I've had both egt and a/f, I'm now on a/f because it's better. With egt your tuning to, a temp but that temp may be rich, or it could be lean, also as you hold it wide open, yes everything warms up, and it makes you worry. Where as the a/f you see the numbers you want to see and hold it pinned, your fine. Sleds from the factory are that way, if you stuck one on a stock sled you'd see they are controlling the a/f ratio at a certain point, it may be even on the leaner side but she doesn't melt down.