19/43 or 19/45 gearing on 11 pro rmk 800 163"

snopromod · Jan 2, 2015

I am a very aggressive tree rider that likes to ride deep steep drainages. What gearing combo would you guys recommend to get front end to dance on the steep hills?

Also does anyone out there have a 43 tooth or 45 tooth bottom gear and 74 link chain to buy?

Snowmow · Jan 2, 2015

Turbo it Ya poosy!!!

snopromod · Jan 2, 2015

Borrow me some money snowman

wellfed777 · Jan 2, 2015

a gear down will move you in the right direction but honestly to make the
gear down work the best some clutching changes are a good idea
look to some of the clutching gurus on here for info
like TRS or Winterbrew or MDS

i like my 20/46 with TRS clutching :face-icon-small-hap
(if chain and gear costs are pressing the pocket book then my advise is no help ha ha ha :face-icon-small-win)

snopromod · Jan 2, 2015

Yes money does come into play. I am about 350 rpm flat right now in deep snow. I'm running 19/42 gearing right now. Stock helix and black team spring 155/222 . I know a spring will help like a black/ purple 160/240or black/white 160/260
But really looking for good advise on those gear ratios.
Also I like where my primary is at on engagement and rev's quick. Just need help on secondary and gearing from some one who unloads in the trees and never leaves till day is done.

wellfed777 · Jan 2, 2015

how do your clutches feel after working them in the trees for awhile ?
if you go stiffer secondary spring it will help in somways hinder in others
you say your happy with your primary but your "flat on 350 rpm in deep snow " ?

as in it starts to fade and won't backshift in a climb ?
or you never hit your target rpm ?

Murph · Jan 2, 2015

I run 19/46 gearing on my 163
19/45 on the 155

wellfed777 · Jan 2, 2015

murph are you running stock clutching with that gearing ?
i'm thinking he's got somthing not working right to have such a rpm loss in deep snow that should'nt happen WY snow should be like angel dust compared to Sierra cement or Oregon boiler plate :face-icon-small-win
and i'm don't see that kind of rpm change a good clutching setup and your rpm should be very consistent in a wide range of conditions

Murph · Jan 2, 2015

Stock clutching-- no

TRS spec Helix
Lightning weights

Indy Specialties TMX motor-- breaking in motor, still on Ethanol setting

wellfed777 · Jan 2, 2015

oh yeah ! nice Tony is the man :face-icon-small-hap

back to topic

let it snow

snopromod · Jan 2, 2015

Wellfed yes it seems to hit 8050 then just isn't back shifting seems to fall even more on a deep steep sidehill
If I put the black/purple secondary spring in it I would be right at polaris recommendation for my altitude. I run on a good hard pull in deep powder about 7950. It hits hard to 8100 or 8050 but then seems to fade a bit

snopromod · Jan 2, 2015

Even if I had it running 8200 I would still want it to be more aggressive and snappy. So I figured by the time I gear down it would be raising rpms anyway then I could chase it from there

jess · Jan 2, 2015

change the motor to have a fix it kit and head. I have a 11 162 and geared it down to no help. the problem is the motor is junk and needs help. I went through 3 motors under warranty with different problems prior to the fix it kit and having higher compression seems to be the ticket with a little gear down. The stock motors dont maintain compression and that is what I fought and you are as well.
Good luck

Snowmow · Jan 2, 2015

jess said:
change the motor to have a fix it kit and head. I have a 11 162 and geared it down to no help. the problem is the motor is junk and needs help. I went through 3 motors under warranty with different problems prior to the fix it kit and having higher compression seems to be the ticket with a little gear down. The stock motors dont maintain compression and that is what I fought and you are as well.

Good luck

This one has a newer motor in it.

snopromod · Jan 3, 2015

Jess motor is not the issue

Sheetmetalfab · Jan 3, 2015

60-40-.32 helix
Same spring
19-45 gearing

Higher initial rpm and then fade is often.

Lack of ability for the secondary to grip the belt at lower speeds.....
Small amounts of snow dust hitting the clutches?

Flaked piston ring coating.

( have seen this happen with <500 miles on factory tolerance motors)

snopromod · Jan 3, 2015

No flaking, pulled motor and measured everything this fall.
I appreciate the opinions guys. It's not motor related at all.

Just looking for someone who might have some gears laying around they may want to sell from back in the chaincase days?
And if you guys that did gear down, if you liked it, was it aggressive?
I don't want this to turn into a motor issue thread, again motor is not the problem. Thanks

sledr4life · Jan 3, 2015

Based on everything said I would guess your weights are too heavy in the primary

wellfed777 · Jan 4, 2015

snopromod
try the blk/purple the blk/white is too stiff in my opinon
cheap test $20-$25 for a spring
now i'm curious what evl. are you running and what gram weights you got in the primary ?
yes a little fade is normal i guess especially if its super deep and or a long pull or back to back pulls but once it starts to fade very much you slip into the land of no return
i've seen and been on sleds with clutching and gearing setups that have almost no fade so i know its possible
what kinda shape are your clutches in how many miles on the internals and the springs ?
with 19/42 your at 2.21 gearing i don't think 19/43 would be worth it 19/45 is more where you gonna want to be
for trees good steep and deep gearing seems to be 2.3-2.4
the funny thing is you can try the blk/purple spring and or gear to 19/45 and then you might want the
softer spring back in for better upshift ? ( if you go too stiff in the secondary they just stay in low gear and won't upshift and then you don't get any good track speed )
let us know what you try
thanks

TRS · Jan 4, 2015

Cheapest bang for the buck is 19-46 gearing.

19/43 or 19/45 gearing on 11 pro rmk 800 163"

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