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17 MC - rear suspension

Chewy22

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100 seems way low on the rear.

I always thought a 3/4 to 1 inch sag is what you're after. Put all your riding gear on. Set track on flat ground and measure the drop when you get on the machine.
 
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Suzzy-Q

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After a couple of deep rides with some rough trail on the way in, 60/120 skis 70/150 centre and 100/180 rear works well for 230lbs rider dressed, but need to slow rebound a bit for next rip
 
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D
May 13, 2016
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I've been having good luck with these settings, 8 rides so far in fresh
Fronts 80/ 150
Front track shock 60/ 150
Rear shock 130/225
Big number is the evol chamber and remember to fill the evol expansion chamber first before filling the main shock limiter strap in stock position and skis in the middle position


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm 180 pounds without gear. Is this setup would be good for my weight? That's my first sled with evol shocks and i need some help to find the best setup for my 153 in. MC.
 

WyoBoy1000

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After a couple of deep rides with some rough trail on the way in, 60/120 skis 70/150 centre and 100/180 rear works well for 230lbs rider dressed, but need to slow rebound a bit for next rip

230lb rider should be below 120 on the rear main chamber. Your losing ability that low. Where is your rebound now.
 

Suzzy-Q

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230lb rider should be below 120 on the rear main chamber. Your losing ability that low. Where is your rebound now.

I turned in the rebound control 2 clicks and seems a little better but will try two more next ride I also will count the clicks next time I defrost the sled lol, I thought 100 was going to be way low but it's not much sag when I stand on it and weight transfer doesn't seem as aggressive. Now I didn't expect this but perhaps the dropped case puts more weight on the front track shock so you don't need to have as much psi in the rear shock? I thought it was going to transfer harder with the dropped case and would have needed more rear shock psi.
 

sno*jet

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im at 125/200 rts and it feels great for climbing/docking, 180lbs. id add a little more if i were just climbing all day.
 

Suzzy-Q

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Only if your Fts is really high p pressure. Shouldn't be more than 65psi unless your really aggressive. I suggest 50/110

Ya I had to get the FTS op to that 70# on the main chamber to keep it from bottoming too often now it just bottoms when I get goin fast on the way home smashing the mogals lol, I figured dropped case and my carcass lol was the reason for running more psi, cuz the dropped case also moves the drive shaft back a bit putting more weight on the FTS anyway correct?
 
M
Mar 1, 2008
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I do some test on my 16' LTD.

If you front ski shock are too soft, your FTS will work harder. It's my issue last year, front ski shock are too soft and FTS bottoming so i need to put some pressure on it and i run low pressure on rear shock like you (90-100main/160evol)

At your weight, if you run 60/120 on front ski shock, try 5-10 psi more on main chamber and 10psi more on evol. Put 120-130psi on main chamber, 200-220psi on rear track shock, you can lowering your FTS shock at Wyo pressure.

5psi is noticable, 10 psi can be a game changer on Float main chamber

I current have a 16' LTD 162, i weight 165lbs + gear and backpack + mountain addiction 3.3 gallon, my riding style is essentially a tree riding and boondocking, small climb (we dont have big hill here), so i need to get on top of snow.

FSS : 65/120
FTS : 40/110 deep snow 50/110 stiff snow
RTS : 125/190

With too much FTS pressure, i notice than the sled are very too tippy and dont work well and it's little harder to get on top of snow.
 

Suzzy-Q

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Ya I started with 75-140 skis 50-125 FTS and 120-220 RTS, rode way too stiff except for FTS, now with changing stuff around slightly every ride I have worked my way to where I'm at now, and so far it feels the best but still tweaking trying to find "the one" lol
 

WyoBoy1000

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Ya I started with 75-140 skis 50-125 FTS and 120-220 RTS, rode way too stiff except for FTS, now with changing stuff around slightly every ride I have worked my way to where I'm at now, and so far it feels the best but still tweaking trying to find "the one" lol

Drill your limiter and drop the rail tips 1/2" then add 5psi to the Fts.
 
M
Oct 4, 2015
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'17 MC shock set-up

I've only got some limited ride time on the new MC; Still trying to learn how to stay ahead of the sled. That being said, I fight it a bit. My set up is FSS 50/85, FTS 50/95, RTS 110/145. The ride is ok, if a bit stiff ( rider wt. with gear ~185 to 190 lbs.) The sled seems tippy & the front end wants dive at slower maneuvering speeds. I hope to dial in my shock pressures before considering ski changes (Grippers or Yammis) or skid relocation (Island Park AC engineers stated that the front skids should be moved to the forward/upper hole?) Should I try 40/95 in the FTS as recommended by Marble above? Appreciate any suggestions. :face-icon-small-con
 
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sno*jet

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I've only got some limited ride time on the new MC; Still trying to learn how to stay ahead of the sled. That being said, I fight it a bit. My set up is FSS 50/85, FTS 50/95, RTS 110/145. The ride is ok, if a bit stiff ( rider wt. with gear ~185 to 190 lbs.) The sled seems tippy & the front end wants dive at slower maneuvering speeds. I hope to dial in my shock pressures before considering ski changes (Grippers or Yammis) or skid relocation (Island Park AC engineers stated that the front skids should be moved to the forward/upper hole?) Should I try 40/95 in the FTS as recommended by Marble above? Appreciate any suggestions. :face-icon-small-con

not claiming to be an expert here, but i would try a little more in the FSS, like 60/130. im at 60/150 i believe. i like to catch a little air sometimes.
are you using the wrong foot forward technique to keep the sled on edge? it has a nice balance point using that method, i practice in the yard sometimes, on hardpack. kinda fun. neighbors prolly think im a bit odd LOL
that RSS setting it fine for cruising trails but wont work well if you want to climb some steep hills (where this sled belongs). crank it up to like 125/200 for that imo.
im trying a 5.5" riser over the stock 4.5, even though guys say thats a no-no. im not worried about trenching with this thing (MC 162). i gonna see how i like it for sidehilling, i was a little hunched over before (im 6 foot). i played with the bars a lot in my yard to get them adjusted where it was most comfortable standing up and riding on edge. i think its important to do that with any bar set up. i notice a lot of guys leave the bars and the controls at the angle the dealer gave it to them in, thats ridiculous, there is a lot to gain setting both the angle of the riser and the bars to that sweet spot when standing up.
 

Suzzy-Q

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I got my MC set up pretty much like snojet I recently bumped my rear shock back up to 110-200 because it keeps the wheelie down in the steep climbs but went to 10 clicks on the rebound to keep the pogo stick effects down, gonna try 8 next ride
 

F7arcticcat

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Anymore information on where guys ended up on this setup. I'm switching to evols on the front and a 17 MC skid with the evols for my 14 Proclimb.
 

Allseasons

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This is a compilation from Wyo and bopper for a start, then me playing around cause I'm 6,1 and dressed- with excessive gear, 260-270. So last years settings and playing with set up. I did more, but erased the settings that trenches or were just plain bad. Now this was on my 16, but we transferred this to my buddies 17 Mtn cat with success.

Notes from my phone, which I have with me when I ride.


Shock pressures

Start at Stock good for climbing
Front 60/100 Rear 145/180
Skis 100/100

Changed for trees/meadows
70/150. Rear 130/180
Skis 80/120
26 clicks-open

Wyo #1
Softer settings for lighter snow on rears, stiffer for harder snow
Front 50-65/110, rear 135-145/250
15 clicks.
Skis 65/110

Wyo #2
50/70 rear 130/160
15clicks
Ski 70/120

Right now. March 18th Handle bar deep, for climbing.
RF 60/110 RR 150/250, 15 clicks
Skis75/120
Need lock out coupler

Enjoy
 
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