The fuel gauge on my 2010 XP was acting up-- show full, then show half when it shouldn't, then show none and warning at maybe 25 miles. I let it slide.
Then, my reverse went out on first day of a three day riding trip. That, I couldn't let slide much beyond a ride or two after I got home.
Followed the manual's first diagnostic check-- compression. Compression was very good, and very even.
Next step per the manual was to use the factory/dealer electrical/electronic diagnostic stuff-- cable, wires, reader, plus a nicer VO meter. The factory cable stuff appeared to be largely to power the system, for conventional resistance, voltage and amperage tests. Very reluctantly, I was about to powerthe electrical system by reverse feed from a spare ATV battery. Couldn't stand the fear of frying components, and went simple:
1. Check continuity from handlebar switch to first plug.
2. Check continuity from first plug to plug behind instrument pod. Should be the beige (who uses beige, anyway?) wire into the instrument plug.
Check the pins carefully. I think there are like, 14 in the plug. My reverse problem was that the pin on the beige wire was loose in the connector, and was not fully connecting to instrument pod side of the plug.
Followed the same idea from the fuel tank-- check connectors and continuity whereever you can. What I found was the first connection out of the tank was loose.
While these connectors look like they clamp together and hold, try wiggling them. They move. I ziptied the connectors to hold them tight.
Have fun.
Then, my reverse went out on first day of a three day riding trip. That, I couldn't let slide much beyond a ride or two after I got home.
Followed the manual's first diagnostic check-- compression. Compression was very good, and very even.
Next step per the manual was to use the factory/dealer electrical/electronic diagnostic stuff-- cable, wires, reader, plus a nicer VO meter. The factory cable stuff appeared to be largely to power the system, for conventional resistance, voltage and amperage tests. Very reluctantly, I was about to powerthe electrical system by reverse feed from a spare ATV battery. Couldn't stand the fear of frying components, and went simple:
1. Check continuity from handlebar switch to first plug.
2. Check continuity from first plug to plug behind instrument pod. Should be the beige (who uses beige, anyway?) wire into the instrument plug.
Check the pins carefully. I think there are like, 14 in the plug. My reverse problem was that the pin on the beige wire was loose in the connector, and was not fully connecting to instrument pod side of the plug.
Followed the same idea from the fuel tank-- check connectors and continuity whereever you can. What I found was the first connection out of the tank was loose.
While these connectors look like they clamp together and hold, try wiggling them. They move. I ziptied the connectors to hold them tight.
Have fun.
