Best STOCK Performance Upgrades 2012 Pro

Hansen13 · Aug 6, 2017

Okay final post. Lots of thoughts on here but I wanna know what people do to make the 800 a better sled. I love the sled, but am finding myself wanting a little more. It's stock aside from the "fix kit" and a GGB Mountain Can. I haven't touched clutching or gearing in the chaincase, and I think that's my next option. What do people think? I noticed myself only pulling 7900 rpm upwards of 11000' now I know elevation was high but my buddy has the same sled and was pulling rpms fine, with a clutch kit. Thoughts on that and what you do to get the best bang out of these machines. The itch to ride is getting so bad and half of BC is still on fire :brokenheart:

Sheetmetalfab · Aug 7, 2017

Slp magnum force clutch weights.

2-3 minutes to adjust on the hill.

If you are happy with the clutching otherwise.

Maybe drop a tooth on the top chaincase gear.
Stock is 20 tooth.

Norway · Aug 7, 2017

After 1 year on my 11 I got a head from PAR. Money well spent. Got that bottom snap that gives you confidence when you have to jump into or out of something. And get a engine torque arm!! That and new motor mounts could get you your rpms back.

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Hansen13 · Aug 7, 2017

Sheetmetalfab said:
Slp magnum force clutch weights.

2-3 minutes to adjust on the hill.

If you are happy with the clutching otherwise.

Maybe drop a tooth on the top chaincase gear.
Stock is 20 tooth.

I was definitely leaning towards clutching that I can adjust on the fly. Especially if it'll help between elevations. From start of season until march we ride anywhere up to 8000' and once the other areas open up we're up 8-11000' and I was having a few issues pulling rpms. I've also read about running a 19-46 setup in the chaincase seems to be what everyone is favoring on the chaincase Pros anyways?

Hansen13 · Aug 7, 2017

Norway said:
After 1 year on my 11 I got a head from PAR. Money well spent. Got that bottom snap that gives you confidence when you have to jump into or out of something. And get a engine torque arm!! That and new motor mounts could get you your rpms back.

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What else do you run as well as the head, or was it just bolt on and go? Bad motor mounts could cause that? I guess it makes sense and I know they're a vulnerable part on these Pros so maybe a good idea to replace them and add the torque arm. Thanks!

Norway · Aug 7, 2017

Yes, mounts are cheap quality som must be replaced after a while or the engine will twist and you loose power in the clutches.
Stock clutching is pretty good on these, so mess around there if you feel you are capable or have a buddy with similar sled so you can check improvement after each change by racing him.
Keep clutches and engine in good condition, buy gas and ride!
Oh, and the "28$ upgrade" is real, will keep engine temps stable and prevent your ECU from messing with your engine power, in turn preventing you from chasing your tail trying to tune around this.

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Hansen13 · Aug 7, 2017

Norway said:
Yes, mounts are cheap quality som must be replaced after a while or the engine will twist and you loose power in the clutches.
Stock clutching is pretty good on these, so mess around there if you feel you are capable or have a buddy with similar sled so you can check improvement after each change by racing him.
Keep clutches and engine in good condition, buy gas and ride!
Oh, and the "28$ upgrade" is real, will keep engine temps stable and prevent your ECU from messing with your engine power, in turn preventing you from chasing your tail trying to tune around this.

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Thanks man, yeah totally capable of doing so, just nobody I know runs the chain case pros so as far as gearing down went I didn't know where to start. Seems like the 19-46 setup I'm gonna try, and yeah I have nothing bad to say about the stock clutching on the sleds. So the $28 upgrade is worth it hey? I run constant temps but heard they run about 10-12 degrees cooler with this?

Norway · Aug 7, 2017

I went 19/45 cuz 45 was the largest polaris could supply. Expensive mistake! Go aftermarket, TEAM industries. Good effect but might need clutching to work the best.
$28 upgrade runs a bit cooler, yes, but I strongly believe the biggest deal is preventing spikes in engine temps that makes the ECU retard timing and messing with performance.

I also cut the track down and would do that again, but only the outer lugs and not the two center ones. Big difference on any kind of hard or set-up snow.

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Hansen13 · Aug 7, 2017

Norway said:
I went 19/45 cuz 45 was the largest polaris could supply. Expensive mistake! Go aftermarket, TEAM industries. Good effect but might need clutching to work the best.
$28 upgrade runs a bit cooler, yes, but I strongly believe the biggest deal is preventing spikes in engine temps that makes the ECU retard timing and messing with performance.

I also cut the track down and would do that again, but only the outer lugs and not the two center ones. Big difference on any kind of hard or set-up snow.

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Thanks man, appreciate the input. Hopefully my local supplier can get their hands on the TEAM parts! And yes the upgrade for keeping consistent coolant temps does make sense.

RoostinRyan · Aug 8, 2017

I have a 12 and the par 13.6 head made a good difference. Last season I also added a spi pipe (I already had a ggb can), power commander, wisecos, changed gears to a 18 and 43, put a black purple secondary spring, can't remember what helix, and a couple other small things. Couldn't be happier with the results when riding in the trees. Power is always right there and letting off isn't a death sentence.

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Hansen13 · Aug 9, 2017

ryanlinger said:
I have a 12 and the par 13.6 head made a good difference. Last season I also added a spi pipe (I already had a ggb can), power commander, wisecos, changed gears to a 18 and 43, put a black purple secondary spring, can't remember what helix, and a couple other small things. Couldn't be happier with the results when riding in the trees. Power is always right there and letting off isn't a death sentence.

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How's the 18/43 setup?

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RoostinRyan · Aug 9, 2017

Hansen13 said:
How's the 18/43 setup?

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I really like it. It's a lot snappier. I originally didn't want to go that low but it was the only gear/chain combo I had on hand that would fit and have the chain not be excessively long. Riding in deep snow in tight trees is where it's super noticeable. You can get off the throttle when needed without worrying about losing track speed because it comes right back.

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Hansen13 · Aug 10, 2017

ryanlinger said:
I really like it. It's a lot snappier. I originally didn't want to go that low but it was the only gear/chain combo I had on hand that would fit and have the chain not be excessively long. Riding in deep snow in tight trees is where it's super noticeable. You can get off the throttle when needed without worrying about losing track speed because it comes right back.

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Yeah haven't heard many people running that low, but mostly that's the riding in my area. Where did you order the kit from?

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Deangarth · Aug 11, 2017

Hansen13 said:
Thanks man, yeah totally capable of doing so, just nobody I know runs the chain case pros so as far as gearing down went I didn't know where to start. Seems like the 19-46 setup I'm gonna try, and yeah I have nothing bad to say about the stock clutching on the sleds. So the $28 upgrade is worth it hey? I run constant temps but heard they run about 10-12 degrees cooler with this?

What's the $28 upgrade?

Norway · Aug 12, 2017

Deangarth said:
What's the $28 upgrade?

Just search here, thread by member TRS about redoing the cooling a little bit.
Runs a Doo thermostat++

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Speed Shop Inc. · Aug 24, 2017

There are a lot of things you can do that are very effective.
Our Mountain Series Billet Heads are an excellent way to bolt on some horsepower.
The V force reeds worked really well in that motor too.
Our pipe mod for the stock pipe in an inexpensive way to gain 6-7 horsepower for only $250.

You have the pistons already. Best bang for you buck is the pump gas mtn billet head and the v force reeds.

We also have a great clutch kit for that package too. New helix, both springs, and ProMag weights for only $259

http://www.bd-xtreme.com/index.php?id_product=244&controller=product

signdude · Sep 16, 2017

2012

I've been riding my 12 since 2013. I originally installed Carl's clutching, 19/46 gears, and a SLP can . The gearing and clutching has been generally spot on. It certainly makes track speed quickly and works well for tree riding. I do wonder if I am geared a little too low.. I noice a lot of riders remain stock or just a couple teeth down.

In 2015 I updated the pistons and a new head from SSI. Nice improvement as well.

My favorite mod though was to install Skinzz boards. Snow simply doesn't stay there unless you are in uber deep snow, even then they are a huge improvement from stk.
they are wider as well.

Last , it's probably time for you to rebuild shocks. Send them to Rogers in Cody and ask for Trs setup and yes, install the $28.00 upgrade. Your temps will be much more consistant when you are starting and stopping a lot.

Have fun!

gtwitch · Sep 17, 2017

Hansen, My opinion only, Do lighter weights and possibly gearing change first, And make only single or at most 2 changes at a time so you can see what will make a difference, If you make many changes at once, you have no idea what is causing what results. Only my thoughts as I learned this many years ago. I only make one change at a time and ride/try then next change and so on.
gtwitch in wyoming

Hansen13 · Sep 17, 2017

So I have the fix kit and a can.

If I go 19/46 gearing and some clutching that seems to be best bang for these stock machines without touching engine anymore hey?

For clutching, I'm riding 6-8000' usually. But I want to be able to adjust the clutching. Anyone running that give me a link to order from, and what parts you ordered?

Thanks for input!

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