speedwerx pipe fitment

I

ippielb

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Jan 4, 2011

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Saskatchewan Canada

• Jun 11, 2017

• #1

i have a speedwerx pipe on my 12' proclimb, and the fitment is no that great. The support that goes onto the bulkhead bar doesn't sit down low enough. And since it doesn't support it upwards, the lower sharp bend of the pipe hits the spar to the steering, the bolt that sticks up popped a hole right in the pipe. Not the mention the can doesn't have any spring hangers really. Anyone run into this problem?

 

S

Storskogen

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Jan 17, 2014

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Sweden

• Jun 11, 2017

• #2

I needed to use a shoe size 46 (EU) to fit it under the frame above the primary but after that it's fine. After three years there is no problem taking it out or putting it back (guess i also learned how to do it after some trial and error). I have a -13 M800LTD

EDIT: I don't think it's low quality, just bigger pipe that is the problem with mine. I have about 5000-6000km on mine without any problems


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Last edited: Jun 11, 2017

I

ippielb

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Saskatchewan Canada

• Jun 11, 2017

• #3

Got any pictures? I'd like to see how you managed. I tried to use some heater hose and cut it and slide it between the frame and the pipe support, but it just wiggles out.

 

S

Storskogen

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• Jun 11, 2017

• #4

Couldn't get any better pictures with the hood on but the rusty bolt is the one that came with the kit if I remeber correctly.
I have the full exhaust with y-pipe, pipe and can.

 

I

ippielb

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• Jun 11, 2017

• #5

Ahhh that would definitely help with clearance. My sled has the stock bolt, which probably sticks out probably more less 1/4" more then it. My pipe support seems to be a bit different then yours. I'll get a picture tomorrow of what I'm working with. Thanks a lot for the picture I'm going to find a bolt with an Allen key head low profile. I also have the full speedwerx system on my sled.

 

boondocker97

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Billings MT

• Jun 12, 2017

• #6

My BMP pipe was rubbing on that bolt too. It almost had a hole rubbed in it, but not quite. I welded it back in and put a rounded head bolt in like shown above.

 

K

kiliki

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Nampa, Idaho

• Jun 12, 2017

• #7

the slp pipe rubs at the same spot, I just cut half the head of the bolt off. the bolt that came with the 14 is taller than the bolt with the 16 btw

 

I

ippielb

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Saskatchewan Canada

• Jun 23, 2017

• #8

The pipe hits on the steering support where the coils hook onto, the spar bulkhead support. It rubber all he way up to the aluminum cast shock mount. I had both pieces of heater hose in the bulkhead to to try support the pipe up but nothing I've tried will get it to stay. Rips the hose if I try to wire it to it.

Dunno why it took me this long to post. I guess being summer, winte projects go on the back burner.

 

S

SpeedwerxInc

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Nov 12, 2015

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Forest Lake, MN

www.speedwerxstore.com

• Jun 26, 2017

• #9

ippielb said:

The pipe hits on the steering support where the coils hook onto, the spar bulkhead support. It rubber all he way up to the aluminum cast shock mount. I had both pieces of heater hose in the bulkhead to to try support the pipe up but nothing I've tried will get it to stay. Rips the hose if I try to wire it to it.

Dunno why it took me this long to post. I guess being summer, winte projects go on the back burner.

Click to expand...

Scroll up again and you'll see the solution to your problems- as Storskogen showed you in the pics he posted above, you need the rubber insulator off the stock pipe (Arctic Cat pn 2612-667). They are only $9.95 if you don't have one, so you could save some headaches using that rather than trying a makeshift setup using heater hose and pieces of flat stock to try to space it up.

He also mentioned and posted a pic of the button head bolt we supply with our pipes- if you bought the pipe used you probably wouldn't know that, but we include it exactly because of the problem you experienced with it rubbing on the pipe. We have them in stock (pn 1139918, $1.26) or if you can source one locally, it's a M8 x 1.25 x 25.

Once you have those you should be good to go, so long as the pipe wasn't tweaked in a wreck by the previous owner- in a worst case scenario you could send it to us to check in the jig if the proper hardware doesn't seem to help.

It's best if you call 651-982-6020 or email tech@speedwerx.com if you have anymore questions- we aren't on here daily, and it's usually best to go right to the source to get the correct answers quickly anyway. Thanks

 

I

ippielb

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Saskatchewan Canada

• Jun 28, 2017

• #10

SpeedwerxInc said:

Scroll up again and you'll see the solution to your problems- as Storskogen showed you in the pics he posted above, you need the rubber insulator off the stock pipe (Arctic Cat pn 2612-667). They are only $9.95 if you don't have one, so you could save some headaches using that rather than trying a makeshift setup using heater hose and pieces of flat stock to try to space it up.

He also mentioned and posted a pic of the button head bolt we supply with our pipes- if you bought the pipe used you probably wouldn't know that, but we include it exactly because of the problem you experienced with it rubbing on the pipe. We have them in stock (pn 1139918, $1.26) or if you can source one locally, it's a M8 x 1.25 x 25.

Once you have those you should be good to go, so long as the pipe wasn't tweaked in a wreck by the previous owner- in a worst case scenario you could send it to us to check in the jig if the proper hardware doesn't seem to help.

It's best if you call 651-982-6020 or email tech@speedwerx.com if you have anymore questions- we aren't on here daily, and it's usually best to go right to the source to get the correct answers quickly anyway. Thanks

Click to expand...

Wasn't expecting a reply direct but I appreciate i got it used. Didn't know that's how the stock pipes were as well. Bought a supercharger kit and everything came with.

I'm going to be getting a new bolt for the spar. And since now I know it's not a specific speedwerx part I'll buy that insulator from cat.

I'll give the bolt, and the insulator a try and see how everything likes up. See how the can fits in there with it.

 

R

rbblrsn

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Dec 9, 2007

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• Jun 29, 2017

• #11

Its not just Speedwerks. My Jaws Big Shark pipe smacks so hard on the crossmember that I get detonation codes and it goes into limp mode. Had to go back to a stock pipe during the season to be able to ride it. Re-worked the heat shield to go under the cross member instead of over but it still hits hard. I suspect motor mount replacement might help but haven't taken that step yet. (I do have the stock rubber mount that was mentioned earler in-place.) 2013 Proclimb.