My wife's 165, at Cooke city, 9000 feet pulls 7700- 7800 on 3 and 7900- 8000 on 4.
Ski-Doo 2017 Rev G4 Belt Issues Read This!
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I ride 4500-6500' and both my sleds (154 and 165) have been on 1 and I get 8200 all day. They definitely over rev if you want them to on hard pack. I have over 200 miles on each sled and have yet to blow a belt. I have never really had to the pin the sleds let alone for a long period of time. Guess I just suck at riding ?
P
Keep it coming please post your clutch settings rough riding altitude and RPM so we can establish a sure trend. Lets use this forum to get this fix.
I put the black secondary spring
24gram pin weight "Goodwin"
Mich. Upper UP 0-2000 feet? Fresh snow groomed trail
Clicker 2
Pulling 8200 on trail
Almost too much backshift
Got dusted by a stock 174 on a rolling start
Dusted the 174 from dead stop
Have not looked at belt yet
Did not check belt temps
200 miles 60-70% break-in
165x 3"
I'm 175lb without gear
Using Goodwin pin kit
FYI the Doo pin bolt is a 4mm
The Goodwin bolt is a 5mm
So dont forget to bring a 5mm allen
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You can add shims/bushings or whatever we are calling them these days under the head of the bolt. Just watch for clearance issues with the spider, they can't be much bigger than the bolt head. This is what Doo had in mind with that long bolt, or the Goodwin kit has what appear to be a better grade bolt and weight assortment that can be stacked to fine tune the overall weight. Takes just a few minutes and nothing to take apart like the TRA to make adjustments.
T
I would think rider weight would need to be added as well to be as accurate as possible. I will post my results as soon as I get enough miles on my belt for a few hard pulls.
Me thinks you need to mention the snow as well...was it dry, bottomless powder? Was out set up?
...I think the snow is a KEY factor in the quest to fix the clutching!
Ace
...I think the snow is a KEY factor in the quest to fix the clutching!
Ace
M
went thru all my extra clutching and bushing stuff and
found that if I added 9 grams, not a lot of threads left.
it would probably work, but cant add anymore.
according to roosterbuilt if I want to drop 200 rpm and load
the motor more, I will need 12+ grams. are these goodwin
kits going to add enough, or am I going to need a spring too?
the kits show 30,35, and 38 mm kits. whats the difference
longer bolts to give you more space for weight?
I feel like a total newb with this
found that if I added 9 grams, not a lot of threads left.
it would probably work, but cant add anymore.
according to roosterbuilt if I want to drop 200 rpm and load
the motor more, I will need 12+ grams. are these goodwin
kits going to add enough, or am I going to need a spring too?
the kits show 30,35, and 38 mm kits. whats the difference
longer bolts to give you more space for weight?
I feel like a total newb with this
mike you can go to the 951 ramp..its 6 gr heavier than the 967..and sounds like the same profile
I ride 3500-6500 ft. On steep pulls in fairly set up but powdery snow i was pulling 8100-8200 rpm on clicker 1. max rpm on my gauge says 8400. just over 200 miles on the sled, break in is done and I'm pulling cords. taking my temp gun this weekend to check temps. Im new to Doo's so these clutches are pretty foreign to me. What goodwin kit do i need? any advice is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
S
G4 850 154 over reving
Hey All;
Really like the last few post, keep them coming and maybe we can all put this over reving & heat problem to bed...! Love this sled by the way!
I am riding G4 154 I weigh 155lbs been riding mostly 2 feet of light powder or less mostly in the trees at about 50% broken in.
Fist few rides at between 3500 to 6000 feet running stock clicker setting which was set at 3 which gave me max rpm of 2350ish.
Last couple rides I have been on clicker 1 and and maxing out at 8150Ish rpm still have stock pipe & all foam in place. Have cleaned belt & clutches all looks okay, but no signs of it being green on sides of belt like my 2014 XM was.
Thinking of adding writes as I can't click down any lower.... any other suggestions or things that have helped.
Hey All;
Really like the last few post, keep them coming and maybe we can all put this over reving & heat problem to bed...! Love this sled by the way!
I am riding G4 154 I weigh 155lbs been riding mostly 2 feet of light powder or less mostly in the trees at about 50% broken in.
Fist few rides at between 3500 to 6000 feet running stock clicker setting which was set at 3 which gave me max rpm of 2350ish.
Last couple rides I have been on clicker 1 and and maxing out at 8150Ish rpm still have stock pipe & all foam in place. Have cleaned belt & clutches all looks okay, but no signs of it being green on sides of belt like my 2014 XM was.
Thinking of adding writes as I can't click down any lower.... any other suggestions or things that have helped.
I
This thread got real quiet real quick... Everyone must be putting weight on the primary and having it work out.. Funny how you read about people bitchin, but they don't come back to share a success story...?...... Thanks roosterbuilt?
Can't believe how everyone is all over the map. Talked to some guys, from North Dakota at Cooke, and he was in 5 with diamond s can. I believe he said he was pulling 8100. I was still in 3 pulling 7900-8000 at 9000 ft. Another guy, up there, blew his belt at 200 miles.
Just a note to everyone changing clickers. Break them loose in the shop first. You would be really hard pressed to do it in the field with their cheesy little tool until they are broke loose the first time.
Just a note to everyone changing clickers. Break them loose in the shop first. You would be really hard pressed to do it in the field with their cheesy little tool until they are broke loose the first time.
I think most guys that have been saying there was a issue for a long time now. Got tired of getting flamed for even saying there is a issue, so they quit posting about. I'd bet some even got it cured, but aren't going to say.
Just adding extra weight through a heavier bolt or washers does not eliminate the the heat FYI.
Just adding extra weight through a heavier bolt or washers does not eliminate the the heat FYI.
I
So everyone that has added enough weight to lower your peak rpm below 8000 is still experiencing hot clutches?
J
What he asked
I
Still crickets
Mine still is, as well as others I ride with so....
I've moved on to other stuff now
I've moved on to other stuff now
N
Mine seems to be working good with the added weight. Gets hot when I thrash on it in the deep snow for a long time, but it's a machine doing work based on friction, it's going to get hot no matter what you do. Ride it smart, take a break and let it cool off once in a while and have fun, it's not a competition.
P
I rode 2 rides with a washer added about 4.5 grams -- clutch was running cool no problem no belt dust clicker 1 at 3500 feet heavy coastal 3 feet. The second sled stock clicker 2 no weight but 3" track mine is 2.5 running hotter and most important belt slipping at high speed on the trail out is leaving tell tail black marks 3/4 up the primary clutch. mine again is squeaky clean. So weight does help, I am worried about backshift at higher elevation. I am going to the lighter primary first ( is in right now for next weekend nice engagement at 3300rpm) and possibly a stiffer secondary after that. My real job is keeping me from doing full on testing so it is one to 2 changes per weekend till it is perfect. About 3 to 4 weeks.
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