• Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

Yellow hood paint code?

E
Dec 8, 2008
812
36
28
Chelan area
Im looking to paint a hood, i found these numbers for the paint, its for the YELLOW hood on my 99 summit X 670 (i think).

1. B190.
2. PPG# DBU88272.
3. BASF and RM# 89849F.
4. Dealer paint code- 413 413 000.

What do they all mean!!! And which one do i give the paint guy so he goes (and i quote) "Ohh, ok i'll order this up, mix it and shoot it!". How much does it run? Thanks!!!!
 
Z
Jan 19, 2008
298
35
28
Wrangell, AK
The 'Doo # is a 'Doo part # for the paint used. The others are the paint manufacturer's paint mixing codes for that particular color of paint.

If the PPG and BASF #'s are good, give them to any automotive paint mixer, and they can cross the number over to whatever product they carry - dupont, martin-seynour, ditzler etc.

Price is determined by brand, and paint system used - Acrylic Enamel, Base-Clear Urethane, Single-stage Urethane, etc. The Enamel would be the cheapest. I have a small autobody repair shop, and I shoot everything with base-clear. Nice results, but much more expensive in that there are more materials involved. I would talk it over with the mixer, and determine what would be easier for you to spray from his point of view. If you have someone else spray it, I would go with whatever they recommend that would be within your budget. Materials and labor, I would charge $200-300 to paint a one-color hood, only needing minor prep-work and priming. Expect to pay more for holes, tears, etc. Not sure what you would pay in the real world.....
 
E
Dec 8, 2008
812
36
28
Chelan area
The 'Doo # is a 'Doo part # for the paint used. The others are the paint manufacturer's paint mixing codes for that particular color of paint.

If the PPG and BASF #'s are good, give them to any automotive paint mixer, and they can cross the number over to whatever product they carry - dupont, martin-seynour, ditzler etc.

Price is determined by brand, and paint system used - Acrylic Enamel, Base-Clear Urethane, Single-stage Urethane, etc. The Enamel would be the cheapest. I have a small autobody repair shop, and I shoot everything with base-clear. Nice results, but much more expensive in that there are more materials involved. I would talk it over with the mixer, and determine what would be easier for you to spray from his point of view. If you have someone else spray it, I would go with whatever they recommend that would be within your budget. Materials and labor, I would charge $200-300 to paint a one-color hood, only needing minor prep-work and priming. Expect to pay more for holes, tears, etc. Not sure what you would pay in the real world.....

Ah, ok thanks. I was hoping it would be under $100... :( well, guess i'll have to see what happens! Thanks Zach.
 
Z
Jan 19, 2008
298
35
28
Wrangell, AK
Under $100....

Well, you MIGHT be able to get away with that if you spray it yourself. You might be able to get a pint of Acrylic Enamel, and the reducer and hardner for that. Most acrylic enamel systems do not require the use of hardner, but it makes it MUCH more durable, and if you do not use the hardner, the finish may be ruined by solvents such as carb cleaner and gasoline.

Some of the bigger paint shops have a machine that can inject the mixed color into spray aerosol cans. Expect to pay about $25-30 a can. Two or three cans should cover the hood well. Remember, this would be automotive paint, and not your typical Krylon bought down at the local hardware store. So it will go on MUCH nicer, especially if you keep your edges of your spray pattern wet, and get uniform, over-all coverage. You will not be able to tell if it came out of a gun or a can if you do it right.

It is all in the prep work. The more work you put into the prep, the nicer the end result. Don't expect to scuff the hood with 80-grit, and spray the hood in a dirty shop and expect awesome results. Spend alot of time sanding, using finer and finer paper. I would start with probably 320, 220 if there are deep scratches, and then work up to 320, and then 400 for final sanding. With most Urethanes, I finish sand with 600. These are all wet-or-dry sand papers, using water while sanding. Wash the hood with hot soapy water when you think you are done, rinse it well, let it dry thoroughly, tack-rag it off, and spray away!

Piece of cake!
 
Premium Features