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PRE SEASON MAINTENANCE ON SHOCK SPRING ADJUSTERS

mountainhorse

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Here are some pre-season tips for better shock function. This goes for weather or not you have the shocks rebuilt or not.

This tip is a good idea, even if your adjusters are not stuck.

Some of you have been finding that when you try to adjust the springs on your sleds the adjusters are stuck.

FIRST.... DO NOT adjust spring preload with weight on the shock... for the fronts... tip the sled up to take off the weight... for the rear... lift the track off the ground completely OR tilt it on it's side... You dont want to make adjustments with weight on the sled.

DON'T try to force the adjusters to turn with a big set of channel locks or other tools... use a bit of finesse and you can get them to work just fine.

Most of the issues arise from corrosion or dirt between the threads. More prevalent on open trailer/deck hauled sleds as road dirt/salt can get in there and cause issues.

Before putting your sleds into service each year, as part of maintenance... it is a good idea to remove the shocks from the sled, wash them well, clean the threads ...soak them with some good penetrating oil on the adjuster threads... soak over night and then work them up/down with the springs off... get the threads nice and clean and then re-set them to the proper length at the beginning of the season.

If the adjusters are stuck.. get a helper to try to push the spring down enough to get the retainer off the other end and remove the spring...Then soak it again with penetrating oil and give it some light taps on the adjuster with a small piece of soft 2x4 wood...working around the outside... It should release at that point... make sure the threads above/below that you are trying to screw into are nice and clean.

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=312674
For the rear shocks... I find that it is easiest to simply pull the skid from the sled... which gives easy access for inspection all around... easy to pull the shocks... AND easy to pull all the pivot shafts out and clean all the "muck" out of them to regrease with a low-temperature synthetic grease (NEVER use common trailer bearing grease, or blue "boat trailer" grease). Your rear suspension will flat out work better and sometimes this cures the overly sagging rear skid on some sleds. Re-grease with the same stuff throughout the season!!
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=312674


I put a light smear of clear synthetic grease on the threads when re-assembling them and wipe off the excess when finished with the adjustment.. just a bit of pre-season maint goes a long way!!

After a season of riding ... I also find that the springs take a "set" and can use an extra 1/8" or 1/4" less adjusted-length than when the sled was new.

I've seen the same issue with Fox Zero-Pros, Ohlins, Ryde-FX, Ski Doo, Cat etc.. anything with a spring adjuster and threads in the body.... Clear anodized, not anodized or black hardcoated...

The best clear grease I've found for this kind of thing.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Super-Lube-3-oz-Tube-Synthetic-Grease-with-Syncolon-PTFE-21030/202932687#

a8bbc3d6-a3b1-47bd-9902-91b4446b3a1e_1000.jpg
 
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mountainhorse

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For the REAR SKID...
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=312674

I like to use this grease, RedLine CV-2 as it is priced well, and performs very well at low temps.

I prefer to keep a "snowmobiLe" grease gun separate from my other grease guns just for this.
I really like the pistol grip guns or the cordless/pneumatic guns as you can operate the gun with one hand and hold the chuck with the other.

http://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-80402-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000CPAEJA/

http://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-Lubrication-1134-Pistol-Grease/dp/B0002NYDZ8





PISTOL GRIP GREASE GUN FROM LINCOLN
41QkfomL1dL._SX425_.jpg


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milo303

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Been using anti seize also! Ruined one shock already so hopefully Andy at gasshockrepair.com cab fix it up for me
 

ullose272

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Your using anti seize in you suspension joints or your shock threads?

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
 

mountainhorse

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TTT for ya Shawn... been getting some questions about this...

This time of year... lots of salt spray and other ice melters all over the sleds.

A bit of Maint can save some frustration.

.
 

Snowmow

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Just got my shocks back from GSR. Sent them off Friday afternoon. Received them back one week later!
One shock had the adjustment nut seized onto the shock body. I carefully cut it off with a small hacksaw, threads under the nut didn't look good. GSR didn't replace the body but made it look like new!! Re valved, amsoil 5wt oil, and fixed the threads. $75 total for both shocks and only took one week!. Couldn't be happier. Definitely recommend him to anyone!
 
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gdhillon

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Nov 29, 2012
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I noticed my rear suspension does have a sag to it, when I lift the sled up to get a dolly underneath it and drop it back down it comes down quite a bit, my sled has 81 miles and I just greased the rear skid (I didnt take it out of the sled just did the zerks on the skid)

Also, I'm not 100% sure when I set up my rts that I got it at the right length, I did measure from where the owners manual said to but I found it pretty hard to crank. (its a 14 pro rmk with the WE shocks that aren't quick clickers) I did have the track off the ground when I adjusted it.

I suppose I could take the rts out and clean it like you described but with 80 miles I can't see that that much crap getting in the threads. I adjusted the rts before my first ride on the sled when it had .8 mile
 

mountainhorse

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You would be surprised how fast the threads can get messed up. With the load off the rear skid... it should not be difficult to turn the adjusters.

81 miles is not at all that much. What type of grease did you use?
 
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gdhillon

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Okay, I will set up my floor jack with a couple 2x4s or something and see if I can get it higher.

I used mobil 1 low temp synthetic stuff that I got from can tire
 

mountainhorse

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Bump for this time of the year... been getting pms on this.


MAKE SURE you take all the weight off the shock when adjusting. (or remove it from the sled if it is being difficult)

Do not use copper based anti-sieze on aluminum components.. Use the silver-color molybdenum anti sieze... OR the grease I posted in the first post.
.
 
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