My thoughts on the 2014 Standard RMK Vs the 2014 PRO RMK.
- Thread starter mountainhorse
- Start date
F
Essentially the same question worded a few ways...
Are the front shock lengths equal on the 14 pro vs std rmk?
Are the '14 welded arms the same geometry as the '14 pro's glued version?
Will shocks stock length from a '12 bolt onto a '14 rmk std but not a '14 pro unless the shock length is shortened?
Are the front shock lengths equal on the 14 pro vs std rmk?
Are the '14 welded arms the same geometry as the '14 pro's glued version?
Will shocks stock length from a '12 bolt onto a '14 rmk std but not a '14 pro unless the shock length is shortened?
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P
we need more people like mountain horse and less of dexter^^^^^^, there is alot of good advice here for anyonewondering about the 2
More specific?
R
Will say I love my '12 pro but eyes glued to the temp is pretty lame! But I have a long ways to go and it most likely is me!
Prorider, it's responses like that why many experienced people don't like to reply on here any more. It's personal preference why we all pick the sleds we do.
The weight difference alone is huge. You will not get 9 lbs with boogie wheels, you will still need scratchers, throttle response on pro is much better with belt drive, a arms are not weaker (although some had glue issues), shocks on std will not wear out quicker ( the aluminum bodied shocks will need servicing quicker due to aluminum contaminates, that's why they are serviceable), etc. I can keep going
I respect mountain horses views but I don't agree to buy a std. Rmk. The new pro performs much better. Why don't you buy one prorider then head To northern Canada in 5 ft of bottomless and watch the results.
shocks on std is pretty much crap,and you can not adjust spring pressure on FTS.i would like to see drivetrain efficiency differences between 2013 std and Pro measured in a track dyno,then we would know.polaris left us with a choice.if you like to mod,suspension,gearing the std would be a cheaper ticket.
R
Good tread.
Have any tested if there is any performance difference between chain and belt drive?
Have any tested if there is any performance difference between chain and belt drive?
I've had the 13pro and 13standard side by side.
Standard with Fox float2 upgrade and EVOL-R on rear...
Throttle response was the same IMO.... same engines.
Stock gearing and clutching on both.
I did notice that the PRO with the QD was a bit less "floppy" once on edge...but that also changed when we went to a 17.25" shock on the standard... ride height, side by side, seemed the same with the shorter shock and diff with the stock 17.5"...
I didn't get to "carve" with the sleds that day, so the inertia of the drive system didn't factor in... which is what I would think would be the situation where a lighter drive train with a smooth running belt would shine.
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Standard with Fox float2 upgrade and EVOL-R on rear...
Throttle response was the same IMO.... same engines.
Stock gearing and clutching on both.
I did notice that the PRO with the QD was a bit less "floppy" once on edge...but that also changed when we went to a 17.25" shock on the standard... ride height, side by side, seemed the same with the shorter shock and diff with the stock 17.5"...
I didn't get to "carve" with the sleds that day, so the inertia of the drive system didn't factor in... which is what I would think would be the situation where a lighter drive train with a smooth running belt would shine.
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Just my two cents………And you have essentially answered your own question without realizing it……The demos were made not on the production line but by individuals who knew what they were doing and how they were supposed to fit together…The production line versions, assumed they would fall together as engineering envisioned, but that has proven not to be the case………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………
From what I've seen, the ones with issues are from the top of the bearing plate being gapped away from the tunnel due to no compression when fitted in the factory (uppermost fastener is about 3" below the upper bearing and with the flexibility of the bearing plate, they were rolling the dice on a good fitment). This causes the lack of bearing crush between the shoulder on the jack shaft and the brake disk / sprocket stack, and allows the jack shaft to spin inside the baring race. As the bearing on the other end of the jackshaft is a press fit, no reasonable amount of torque will capture the upper bearing on the quick drive side, which results in the premature failure of the jack shaft. The best way to rectify this is re-glue the bearing plate properly and add two shortened chassis bolts where the two tunnel rivets are. With these simple upgrades this drive will last as long as the chain case. More detail in the upper sprocket heat thread.
Again just my observations
Fair amount of work to get that done... no "plug n play" options exist.
You'll have to cut the stock wiring harness to do it and splice on wires.
RSI used to have a kit for this... I think it was discontinued... it still required cut/spice/solder.
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You'll have to cut the stock wiring harness to do it and splice on wires.
RSI used to have a kit for this... I think it was discontinued... it still required cut/spice/solder.
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Would have been nice to have the controls in the Pro position though. Not sure why they didn't change them. I'm on the fence between snow checking the RMK or the Assault. The different track attack angle on the Assault has me a bit concerned for deep powder, sidehilling and climbs. I wonder how much it really impacts riding in deep snow? I read that some people have drilled and moved the rear suspension mount up to where it is located on the Pro. I fear this would affect the overall ride and setup of the assaults different rails and shocks. I haven't been able to find too much on whether or not it is truly beneficial.
Went with the Pro
First off thanks for the tread I did use the info to help make my decision.
I really bought the Pro for the light weight. So that had a major part in my decision. If you really could take off the wheels and add ice scrachers for a 9#
savings that would be nice but there is 9# difference, not much and I could live with that. But I was just not sure on that.
Then the shocks, I couldn't see buying used take offs for my new sled. If they were the 16.5" that are on the Pro, people take them off new and that would have been worth while, but if you buy take off's your savings is down to $550 so now we're not too far off. Also if you wanted upgrades shocks in the first place the WE' s are going to worth $450 or more. The std's will be hard to get rid off.
I don't like handle bar controls and do like the brake on the Pro, When I've ridden the Pro I've always said the bars are too wide, so if I don't get used to them I'll just cut them down. I think I would have liked the Std's bars.
AS far as the other issues on the Pro, I hoping the have tighter quaility controls for most of those.
I think to have a factory 417# sled with QD is a good way to go.
SB
First off thanks for the tread I did use the info to help make my decision.
I really bought the Pro for the light weight. So that had a major part in my decision. If you really could take off the wheels and add ice scrachers for a 9#
savings that would be nice but there is 9# difference, not much and I could live with that. But I was just not sure on that.
Then the shocks, I couldn't see buying used take offs for my new sled. If they were the 16.5" that are on the Pro, people take them off new and that would have been worth while, but if you buy take off's your savings is down to $550 so now we're not too far off. Also if you wanted upgrades shocks in the first place the WE' s are going to worth $450 or more. The std's will be hard to get rid off.
I don't like handle bar controls and do like the brake on the Pro, When I've ridden the Pro I've always said the bars are too wide, so if I don't get used to them I'll just cut them down. I think I would have liked the Std's bars.
AS far as the other issues on the Pro, I hoping the have tighter quaility controls for most of those.
I think to have a factory 417# sled with QD is a good way to go.
SB
I bought the kit from RSI for my 09 700 RMK. It was pretty easy to accomplish and it's still doable, but no kits are available now. You'd have to buy the switches, master cylinder, and so on separately. I don't know if the 2011+ year std RMKs still use the same wiring (colors and location) as my 09, but here's the schematic I got with my relocation kit.
This is the relocation kit on my 09 with Fly mini-bend bars. All of the other parts came from RSI:
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Thanks for posting Richracer1, that setup looks nice. I'll have to look into whether or not the wiring has changed. Has anyone had a look at the plastics in the console area on the MY14 RMK? I circled the area I am talking about in the photo below. If the console is pre-marked for the switches and the wiring is the same from 09, then it might be feasible. Fat chance the wiring will be the same after all these years.
Awesome job MH!
Just yesterday I decided to trade in our 2011 800 Pro 163" on a 2014 800 Pro 155"
Now you got me all screwed up. (Again):face-icon-small-dis I have until Tuesday.:face-icon-small-hap
We do have a 2013 800 Pro and after 1100 miles we have not had one problem. And it's been well tested and beaten severely. As far as the 2013 chain vs. belt drive I can't comment on, but our 2013 Pro has a noticeable improvement in throttle response over our 2011 Pro. Maybe I am comparing apples to oranges. As far as all the bad things I have heard over the years. Other than operator error we have had good luck with our Pro's.
2011 800 Pro 155" One bad ETS. 2000 miles.
2011 800 Pro 163" No problems. 1600 miles.
2013 800 Pro 155" No problems. 1100 miles.
Thanks for the great thread MH. I appreciate it!
I did notice in your pictures you have a 600 Pro RMK and a 800 RMK. Is the 600 Pro identical to the 800 Pro ? Other than the engine?
:juggle:
Just yesterday I decided to trade in our 2011 800 Pro 163" on a 2014 800 Pro 155"
Now you got me all screwed up. (Again):face-icon-small-dis I have until Tuesday.:face-icon-small-hap
We do have a 2013 800 Pro and after 1100 miles we have not had one problem. And it's been well tested and beaten severely. As far as the 2013 chain vs. belt drive I can't comment on, but our 2013 Pro has a noticeable improvement in throttle response over our 2011 Pro. Maybe I am comparing apples to oranges. As far as all the bad things I have heard over the years. Other than operator error we have had good luck with our Pro's.
2011 800 Pro 155" One bad ETS. 2000 miles.
2011 800 Pro 163" No problems. 1600 miles.
2013 800 Pro 155" No problems. 1100 miles.
Thanks for the great thread MH. I appreciate it!
I did notice in your pictures you have a 600 Pro RMK and a 800 RMK. Is the 600 Pro identical to the 800 Pro ? Other than the engine?
:juggle:
