BD M7 turbo install help

skime699 · Feb 17, 2013

Ok here's the deal bought a bd turbo kit off Craigslist with no instructions contacted bd and they don't have them any more and but did give me the m1 instructions which helps i have every thing mounted turbo, intercooler , plumbing for coolant, fuel lines,and figured out wiring for the rectifier and capacitor for the oil pump and the external fuel pump . The turbo is a GT2860RS DISCO POTATO.
The questions that i have are about how the boost reference lines should be ran. I've been torn on the placement of the transducer and where to get boost reference for fuel regulator, ect. I was looking at the tm8 (pump gas) instructions and the transducer was screwed into the airbox so i did that and the same for the fuel reg was going to plumb the blow off valve into the air box also but then it didn't make sense with how a bov works and have stopped the install. i believe this is a BD race gas kit for a m8 .
I believe NOW that the transducer, fuel regulator and blow off valve should get the boost reference from the stock oil injection lines that run into the reed boots if that's the case which i would have to run mix fuel which is fine. should a guy leave the oil injection pump there to oil the main bearings?
I should also note i have v-vorce 3 reeds and spacers idk if i should run them as i found ppl have been having issues with reeds cracking on turbo sleds. a million questions i know, any and i mean any help would be helpful from you guys with turbo sled experience thanx in advance

looking to run 10lb thinking av gas but 110 is also an option mixed with 91 will be running in 10,000 to 12,000 ft elevation also the secondary injectors are in the intake box.

skime699 · Feb 17, 2013

Some one throw me a bone here:face-icon-small-sho

m7 · Feb 17, 2013

I dont have a turbo m7 but my buddy does he is mtsthelens on this forum. I do know he premixes and the stock pump runs the oil for the turbo. He drilled somewhere on the bottom of the motor and put a bango fitting in with a jumper line. Where to I dont know. I will call him maybe he will jump on here and help you out.

m7 · Feb 17, 2013

He must be up on the mountain.

skime699 · Feb 17, 2013

thanxs for the reply, and it sounds like he has an earlier turbo version. Myn has a electric oil pump to feed the turbo. Im looking for the placement and location of the boost lines as far as where they come from and where they go as i feel i have placed them in the wrong location... but the location is fine for a m8 pump gas setup? idk if it will make it a tuning nightmare having things placed where i have.

btw i don't blame you're buddy for being out in the snow i would be!

Tonysnoo · Feb 17, 2013

Bov needs to get a signal on the engine side of the throttle plate(s). All the rest should be gotten off of the air box side.
Good luck and have fun.

skime699 · Feb 18, 2013

hay thanx just got my exhaust done and wide band 02 in you guys think i should run stock reeds or run the V-force?

Vertical-Extreme · Feb 18, 2013

Stock reeds. Lots of good threads on which reed set ups are working best if you search.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

mt st helens · Feb 18, 2013

Did you get it sorted out? How did you wire it? You WILL burn up your stator if you wire it like a M-8.

skime699 · Feb 19, 2013

I believe i have the electrical part figured out the cap and rectifier just plugs into my accessory plug and that feeds my oil pump fuel pump and control box . And i bov is fed off the reed boots.
Im still kind of tore on this set up (pic below) tho but i feel its basically the same as the tm10 any thoughts?
O yeah and im taking the turbo back off im going riding for a week.
just moved to Colorado from Minnesota and left my stock reeds back in my home town :doh::doh: my v- vorce reeds will not last

mt st helens · Feb 20, 2013

I went through two stators in a year and a half wired the way you have wired it. This was back when people were still doing a lot of 7's and you could still get fresh R&D on them. The best fix came from Shain at Twisted Turbo. I pulled out my stock fuel pump and regulator and just run the after market one that came with the kit. Hook your O2 gauge,boondocker box and oil pump to stock fuel pump wire. Hook only your one fuel pump to the blue rectifier. Then wire in a small battery with a on/off toggle switch to the fuel pump. You only need the battery when sled is cold when its warm it will start first pull every time. No problems for the last four years. I have chased the fix for the bad bottom end for six years just live with it its not an M-8. But once up on boost it will run with or out run most turbo 8's. Its a fun sled and I have never had to split the case on it with six years on boost just fresh top end every season. D drive perfect and have NEVER ate a belt. Replaced one motor mount. (wouldnt you like that M-1000 boys)

skime699 · Feb 22, 2013

mt st helens said:
I went through two stators in a year and a half wired the way you have wired it. This was back when people were still do 7's and you could still get fresh R&D on them. The best fix came from Shain at Twisted Turbo. I pulled out my stock fuel pump and regulator and just run the after market one that came with the kit. Hook your O2 gauge,boondocker box and oil pump to stock fuel pump wire. Hook only your one fuel pump to the blue rectifier. Then wire in a small battery with a on/off toggle switch to the fuel pump. You only need the battery when sled is cold when its warm it will start first pull every time. No problems for the last four years. I have chased the fix for the bad bottom end for six years just live with it its not an M-8. But once up on boost it will run with or out run most turbo 8's. Its a fun sled and I have never had to split the case on it with six years on boost just fresh top end every season. D drive perfect and have NEVER ate a belt. Replaced one motor mount. (wouldnt you like that M-1000 boys)

so i'll need a battery run the fuel pump when its cold so. hmm good to know what pump did you'res come with? i guess I'm surprised that the aftermarket pump has a nuff flow thanx for the input .

mt st helens · Feb 22, 2013

I will check the part #. its not the one that came with BD kit. Its a Walbro that uses less volts than the one that came with it. I think it was OVS that had a M-8 wire harness swap to fix the M-7 electrical problems. Some guys were also sending in their stators and having them rewound to give them more DC power.

skime699 · Feb 22, 2013

yeah that would be great if you could get that part # for me i want to do this right the first time..
so what you're saying tho basically in order to make every thing last stater and all. I'm going to need to run a small battery for warm up. what size battery are you running then? and do you have it tied into the stock fuel pump harness so it charges when you hit you're switch off or just leave it on for awile when you ride to charge? hay thanx btw for helping me out with this info its good to know :face-icon-small-hap
i have only 600 miles on a welded crank and forged pistions with cylenders renicked and bore mached from Millennium Technologies. when you do you're top end every year you just re ringing or new pistons? just curious don't mean to ask 30 questions just would like info

Tonysnoo · Feb 23, 2013

There are a few different schools of thought on the electrical. The factory m8 ccu is a clean setup, but it doesn't allow your tach to work any more.

The bridge rectifier works really good, but you have to keep the negative isolated from chassis or you WILL overload a stator.

The dc source for the stock fuel pump is limited and sorta unregulated. I didn't like the voltage drop I got when I ran an AEM o2 off of it, but I see lots of guys have done that Ok.

I'm not a fan of any supplemental battery system as I find it's not necessary.

mt st helens · Feb 23, 2013

Tonysnoo said:
There are a few different schools of thought on the electrical. The factory m8 ccu is a clean setup, but it doesn't allow your tach to work any more.

The bridge rectifier works really good, but you have to keep the negative isolated from chassis or you WILL overload a stator.

The dc source for the stock fuel pump is limited and sorta unregulated. I didn't like the voltage drop I got when I ran an AEM o2 off of it, but I see lots of guys have done that Ok.

I'm not a fan of any supplemental battery system as I find it's not necessary.

You only need the back up battery if you remove your stock fuel pump.

Polarisrocks · Feb 23, 2013

Shanes cap and rec doesnt supply enough power to get a booster or bigger external pump to build enough psi to start the sled. I had to get a dc adapter and now i have enough power to charge a small battery and use it get the pump up to psi when its cold. My sled is an 09 ac sled.. so i'm not sure what system the m7 has..

Jim

skime699 · Feb 23, 2013

Tonysnoo said:
The bridge rectifier works really good, but you have to keep the negative isolated from chassis or you WILL overload a stator.

The negative after the rectifier cant be grounded to the chassis correct? and the rectifier its self can still be bolted to the bulk head still right it doesn't ground its self also when you bolt it up to the chassis?

Thanks again for all the reply's

Tonysnoo · Feb 23, 2013

mt st helens said:
You only need the back up battery if you remove your stock fuel pump.

I remove the stock fuel pump and only run an external. I've mentioned it a number of times, an ordinary old school fuel primer is soooo easy and bulletproof... No need for batteries (or hot start switches).

The m7 had a very poor regulator for how much power the stator made. Extra load from pumps and other items won't hurt a thing. I used to run an extra load resistor plus the fuel pump and never had a stator problem. Ive never tried it but an 09 regulator would probably be a great item to put on an m7. The only thing different between an 09 m8 and an m7 schematic is the tach wire, egt, and of course reverse .

skime699 · Apr 9, 2013

Tonysnoo said:
I remove the stock fuel pump and only run an external. I've mentioned it a number of times, an ordinary old school fuel primer is soooo easy and bulletproof... No need for batteries (or hot start switches).

The m7 had a very poor regulator for how much power the stator made. Extra load from pumps and other items won't hurt a thing. I used to run an extra load resistor plus the fuel pump and never had a stator problem. Ive never tried it but an 09 regulator would probably be a great item to put on an m7. The only thing different between an 09 m8 and an m7 schematic is the tach wire, egt, and of course reverse .

ordered up a 09 m8 regulator up tonight so got that coming as well as a primer and other goodies. sorry guys for the long reply, when i was heading back from my last riding trip some D-bag t boned me on I-25 and totaled my truck and trailer sled was ok though.
Anyways i cant seem to find how ppl are putting primers on m7's though... it would be a no brainier if i wasn't already using the stock oil injection lines in the reed boots for my BOV. Was wondering if i could just use the primer to pump pressure into the pressure side of my fuel lines ... not likely tho with 30 to 40 lb.. lines would probably just go POP.. lol or maybe just hook up the primer into my lines that go to the bov and those reed boots?? thanx again in advance you guys have added a lot of helpful info

BD M7 turbo install help

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