Corking your hand warmers

volcano buster · Jan 1, 2014

I know on mine, the hook ends go in far enough that the "foam" would only insulate the first two finger widths next to the control blocks. With the cork, they are insulated all the way to the end. With the RSI heating elements that go all the way down, I seldom run "Hi".

I made a small 1/2" diameter plug to fill the hook bolt so the grip/element would be supported all the way down. Super nice to have a heater regardless of where your hand is resting.

I have large hands so I used heat shrink over the RSI element to smooth it down and then put the grip on over the top. This might not be required with a smaller hand, but I sure like it.

Oregonsledder · Jan 2, 2014

Forget the foam, I did that last year and could not tell any difference. Cork them and be done.

GoBigParts · Jan 23, 2014

We have cork that matches the doo cork in Stock. Self adhesive.

http://www.gobigparts.com/SPI-HANDLEBAR-HEATER-INSULATORS.html

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sledheadd · Jan 23, 2014

GoBigParts said:
We have cork that matches the doo cork in Stock. Self adhesive.

http://www.gobigparts.com/SPI-HANDLEBAR-HEATER-INSULATORS.html

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I bought these and they are well worth the money and time to install..

Dirty Steve · Jan 25, 2014

I just did this tonight. I just went to my local Ski-Doo dealer and bought their cork. It comes with notches in it for the built in hooks in the end of the Doo bars. I just cut that portion off and use the two pieces that were left.( One large, one small)

I used a heat gun to warm up my elements a bit a carefully peeled them off. I applied the cork and then used contact cement on the elements to make sure they were good and sticky. I did the air nozzle trick. I stuck the end of the nozzle under the grip applied a little air and pulled the grip right off.
I did the fender washer trick to reinstall so I had something to push on.

I did one side and the started the machine to compare. With the warmers on high, the corked grip was getting toasty after about 30 seconds at idle in my 70° shop. The uncorked side - I could not feel any heat at the thirty second mark. Major difference!

Also, I checked my throttle and I was not getting wide open throttle after the cork was installed. I could see that the throttle was about 1/8" from touching the stop with the flipper against the grip. I adjusted so it's about 1/32" from the stop when against the grip and if you really squeeze, it will just touch the stop.

Total cost for this was around $6.50 and about 45 minutes. 30 of which was doing other stuff while waiting for the contact cement to tack up.

Supposed to be -13°F for a high tomorrow here with -55° wind chill and a blizzard warning. Perfect testing conditions for this mod.

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GoBigParts · Jan 26, 2014

Dirty Steve said:
I just did this tonight. I just went to my local Ski-Doo dealer and bought their cork. It comes with notches in it for the built in hooks in the end of the Doo bars. I just cut that portion off and use the two pieces that were left.( One large, one small)

I used a heat gun to warm up my elements a bit a carefully peeled them off. I applied the cork and then used contact cement on the elements to make sure they were good and sticky. I did the air nozzle trick. I stuck the end of the nozzle under the grip applied a little air and pulled the grip right off.
I did the fender washer trick to reinstall so I had something to push on.

I did one side and the started the machine to compare. With the warmers on high, the corked grip was getting toasty after about 30 seconds at idle in my 70° shop. The uncorked side - I could not feel any heat at the thirty second mark. Major difference!

Also, I checked my throttle and I was not getting wide open throttle after the cork was installed. I could see that the throttle was about 1/8" from touching the stop with the flipper against the grip. I adjusted so it's about 1/32" from the stop when against the grip and if you really squeeze, it will just touch the stop.

Total cost for this was around $6.50 and about 45 minutes. 30 of which was doing other stuff while waiting for the contact cement to tack up.

Supposed to be -13°F for a high tomorrow here with -55° wind chill and a blizzard warning. Perfect testing conditions for this mod.

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Yeah, Like this picture. I think Doo and SPI have the same source for Cork.

http://www.gobigparts.com/SPI-HANDLEBAR-HEATER-INSULATORS.html

Dirty Steve · Jan 26, 2014

Yep looks like the exact same thing.

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GoBigParts · Jan 26, 2014

Dirty Steve said:
Yep looks like the exact same thing.

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Rode yesterday and going riding in a little bit. It is super cold here and I still couldn't leave my handwarmers on high for too long. 8 degrees and feels like 1 degree this morning.

fastlane · Jan 26, 2014

I did mine with the 1/16 napa cork, then put RSI heaters on, Like the feel of the thicker grip, the stock grips fit over decent, had to be careful starting them on but after that no problems. I glued cork but not grips, they weren't glued from factory and seem sticky inside, I can't move them at all after install. Riding today so we'll see how they work. Ill report back

mountainhorse · Jan 27, 2014

Wondering.. With the thicker grip if you still get full travel on the throttle flipper?

Dirty Steve · Jan 27, 2014

From my post above- I don't have a service manual, so I'm not 100% certain that I have the throttle set properly. Hoping I don't have to screw with the TPS....

(Also, I checked my throttle and I was not getting wide open throttle after the cork was installed. I could see that the throttle was about 1/8" from touching the stop with the flipper against the grip. I adjusted so it's about 1/32" from the stop when against the grip and if you really squeeze, it will just touch the stop.)

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fastlane · Jan 27, 2014

I definitely lost some rpm, anyone know the right way to fix lever travel for thicker bars, adjusting cable will mess up tps I would imagine, or adjust wide open and recalibrate it?

Oregonsledder · Jan 27, 2014

mountainhorse said:
Wondering.. With the thicker grip if you still get full travel on the throttle flipper?

On my sled I get 8250 rpm on hard long pulls before I corked and after I corked, so I don't care if I'm not getting full travel or not. For me peak rpm is the true measure.

fastlane · Jan 27, 2014

I was hitting 83 or so now at 82-8250, not alot but it is down a little, since the change, I'm not real impressed with how hot the Warmers are, corked with RSI one would think they would be uncomfortable hot on high, rode hour in 20 deg the other day and ran high the whole time, took gloves off to make sure they were even on, warm on bare hands but not hot, think this sled still has problems, just got it back from dealer said no issues... Idk. Stock didn't seem to work, everything checked out according to spec as far as ohm testing, start sled and had no voltage on yellow feed wire, I corked and put the RSI heaters on took to dealer and they said they worked fine, don't see how that's possible but I figured hey whatever as long as they work, first ride after they dropped it off and that's how the heaters work.. Any ideas?

GoBigParts · Jan 28, 2014

You guys bring up a good point. I been fighting a 100-200 RPM loss. Maybe it is the thicker grips.

volcano buster · Jan 28, 2014

On a smooth stretch of trail or other open area, can you reach over with the left hand and deflect the throttle cable when the flipper is all the way to the bar to see if you get an increase in RPM's?

I have the cork, RSI heater, shrink tube, then the OGI grip on mine and have use of full RPM's. I have used thicker grips in the past and had to use a razor blade to relieve the contact points where the flapper would hit on those.

Dirty Steve · Jan 28, 2014

I looked at the throttle on a stock 2014 with uncorked grips last night and the throttle travel ended about 3/16" from the stop on throttle body which is about where mine was after I corked my grip.

I never thought to look at mine prior to corking.

Can someone with a manual look up the proper setting for the cable?

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chrismm8 · Jan 28, 2014

corked mine last week, rode this weekend, holly h e double hockey sticks do they get hot. stock high is cooler than low now, well worth the $10 bucks for cork and an hours time

animaldoc · Feb 5, 2014

Corking Handlebars

Did my 13 Pro today. Used Ski-doo cork. Old warmers peel right off. Cleaned bars with enamel thinner. Cork sticks well. New Polaris warmers stick to cork good. TIP: Polaris grips are TIGHT!!! Did the fender washer trick. Use full compressor pressure (130lbs) didn't overinflate grip. Takes 2 people! One to run airgun/fender washer and the other to twist/pull the grip on. TIP: Use lube! Spit don't work! Soap/water? I used WD swabbed on both surfaces sparingly. Grip slid on with moderate/hard effort and did NOT move/rotate once finally in place. Time for total install including zip ties and plugging in--- about 1 hour. Time to convince Wife to help--30minutes and 2 beers!

bootz1981 · Feb 5, 2014

animaldoc said:
Did my 13 Pro today. Used Ski-doo cork. Old warmers peel right off. Cleaned bars with enamel thinner. Cork sticks well. New Polaris warmers stick to cork good. TIP: Polaris grips are TIGHT!!! Did the fender washer trick. Use full compressor pressure (130lbs) didn't overinflate grip. Takes 2 people! One to run airgun/fender washer and the other to twist/pull the grip on. TIP: Use lube! Spit don't work! Soap/water? I used WD swabbed on both surfaces sparingly. Grip slid on with moderate/hard effort and did NOT move/rotate once finally in place. Time for total install including zip ties and plugging in--- about 1 hour. Time to convince Wife to help--30minutes and 2 beers!

did mine today, just like animaldoc,work great, only i had to use "i will help do dishes" instead of beer

Corking your hand warmers

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