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My first post on Snowest - My purchase of a 2006 RMK 900

U
Feb 21, 2017
62
15
8
Saskatchewan
Hey everyone, thought I would make my first post here as im happy to see a dedicated forum for the 900 polaris. I hope to not become obsessed but i fear that is already too late :face-icon-small-hap

I did have a 2005 900 until an asteroid entered the PTO side breaking the rod which acted like a 360 degree jackhammer, now i am parting out that sled.

Being that i rarely learned my lesson the first time as a child and am a stubborn ol' bugger I just purchased a 2006 RMK. I will be picking it up Saturday. Sled has 930Kms.

I have searched and found a great amount of information here and if it works out I would like to use that information to document my progress as I
check the sled top to bottom and do what I need to make it reliable. I will keep this thread going as a way for myself to reference all the material in one spot and if it helps some people that will be great!

Here is what I know about it so far...

1)Still uses the 080 belt, apparently has had no issues but I will be switching to the 1115, and checking crank run out in case of a blown belt in the past.

2)Has all updates and bulletins completed

3)Has 930KMs

I will post back more information Saturday and make a list of my intended improvements once I do some more reading.

Thanks in advance everyone.
 

Cerialsledder

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First improvement is going to be sending the primary to indy specialty and have him shim the clutch for the 115 belt and also have him do a primary balance on it. This eliminates a bunch of vibration.
 
U
Feb 21, 2017
62
15
8
Saskatchewan
Thank you... I read that is one of the big crank killers on these sleds. Definately on the "to do" list.

As are torquemaster bottom end and compfusion mounts however...

I have the SLP push and pull stops that were never installed on the blown up '05 - Ill ask him if that will be sufficient after he does the bottom end.
 

Cerialsledder

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Thank you... I read that is one of the big crank killers on these sleds. Definately on the "to do" list.

As are torquemaster bottom end and compfusion mounts however...

I have the SLP push and pull stops that were never installed on the blown up '05 - Ill ask him if that will be sufficient after he does the bottom end.

Yep that will be enough. I have the TM1 bottom end in my sled with stock OEM motor mounts. I was unable to get a hold of compfusion at the time to get a set and I have had no problems in the last 2 years.

Another pointer is if you pull the motor to do all that fun stuff to it, pack up your injectors and send them to witchhunter to have them cleaned and flow tested. Trust me it's better safe than sorry.
 

mtbraun

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Mar 31, 2016
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Parts Available

I may have some of what you are looking coming up for sale. Basically my 06 900 is totaled and am waiting for the repair estimate and insurance claim to be settled. Here's what I'd have available:


Indy Specialties primary and secondary (done within the last 250 miles, have paperwork to support). It is set up for 175 lb. rider so you may need to change the spring but it has the adjustable weights which are really handy.


CompFusion motor mounts


Motion Pro throttle/oil cable, if you're interested


Let me know. Matt
 
U
Feb 21, 2017
62
15
8
Saskatchewan
Yep that will be enough. I have the TM1 bottom end in my sled with stock OEM motor mounts. I was unable to get a hold of compfusion at the time to get a set and I have had no problems in the last 2 years.

Another pointer is if you pull the motor to do all that fun stuff to it, pack up your injectors and send them to witchhunter to have them cleaned and flow tested. Trust me it's better safe than sorry.

Sled only has 930KMs... is the injectors a problem from the factory?
 

Cerialsledder

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Sled only has 930KMs... is the injectors a problem from the factory?

If it only has 930km/578 miles on it I would for sure send them out to be cleaned. If it truly has that low of mileage on it then that tells me that it has been sitting most of it's life.

3 years ago I rebuilt my 900 and in the same season I watched it burn a hole through the piston bigger than the size of my thumb. Now you can get 900 pistons all day long but that was one of my last sets of 975 pistons which are no longer made unless you put in a special order to the manufacturer and buy a batch of 10 of them, no thanks. The reason I had this burn down was because I ignored Slash and Guido's advice to take my injectors out and have them cleaned and flow tested, I think Mountainhorse suggested it as well, so it resulted in a clogged injector making it run lean on one side. For the little bit extra it would take to do this you may save yourself a bigger headache in the future. That's just my 2 cents. With these sleds it's better to be safe than sorry plus I don't want another azz chewing from the guys here saying "I Told you so!!!" or one from MartyUT telling me to "Get rid of the F__king thing!!!" LOL.

Good luck in your adventures!!!
 

Cerialsledder

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https://youtu.be/_gw4UHxPU4Y

Good Video showing a diy for injector cleaning. Ill be giving this a go, looks pretty simple.

Yeah I just had someone else do it that has a machine that controls the pressure the injector runs at. The 06 8 bar machines were 116 psi and everything else is 4 bar at 58 psi.

Let me guess, Witchhunter is backed up and won't be able to get to your injectors for a few weeks?
 
U
Feb 21, 2017
62
15
8
Saskatchewan
Didn't check actually I'm kind of a guy that would like to be able to do it myself. Anytime I had things apart I would clean them just to keep things tip top. If I'm gonna own this sled I'm gonna have to learn how to do necessary things on my own.
im sure that witch hunter does a damn good job and for a good price. But if you want to ride the next day and you are having problems, this video is worth a shot ?
 
U
Feb 21, 2017
62
15
8
Saskatchewan
Crank run out results

Checked the run out (PTO) about 1/4" from where the taper starts on the motor side and it is .002 maybe .0025 but that's max. 1/8" from the end of the crank it's .003. I marked the low point of the crank and until I can get my primary balanced I plan to line up the heavy side of the primary with this low point to offset the runout. Gonna see if the vibration is better by indexing the clutch this way. Clutch has to come apart for balancing and shim for the 1115 belt anyway so this will be just a trial run. Anyone care to help me out with the Polaris runout spec and proper location for measurement?
 

Merlin

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No experience with the 900s but .003" is pretty well the max. permissible on the older 800s.

Measurement is usually taken near the outer end of the taper as you have already done.

A quick call to Indy Dan to confirm would be the best but running it at .003" could be operating on borrowed time IMO.



Checked the run out (PTO) about 1/4" from where the taper starts on the motor side and it is .002 maybe .0025 but that's max. 1/8" from the end of the crank it's .003. I marked the low point of the crank and until I can get my primary balanced I plan to line up the heavy side of the primary with this low point to offset the runout. Gonna see if the vibration is better by indexing the clutch this way. Clutch has to come apart for balancing and shim for the 1115 belt anyway so this will be just a trial run. Anyone care to help me out with the Polaris runout spec and proper location for measurement?
 
U
Feb 21, 2017
62
15
8
Saskatchewan
Fire! Fire! ?

Good point ... I think good old seafoam is gonna be my answer for now and just keep an eye on the plug colour every once in a while. Maybe I'll pull them out this summer to clean them.

I removed one shim from the primary to properly accommodate the 1115 belt, and balanced the primary weights. Using the 11-68 weights two of them weighed 69.2, the other weighed 68.6 so I ground the sides of the two heavier ones and matched them to 68.6.

Next I did a static balance on the primary and surprisingly it was pretty good but I still marked the heavy side then indexed it with the bottom dead center of the crank (checked my video of the runout and the max looked like .002 to .0025). Indy Dan also said that .003 would be max. I had .0005 deflection from the torque of the ratchet on the clutch bolt but overall I think max was .0025 so I'll have to keep an eye on that!

Next I noticed that the slp push arm had a destroyed rubber piece so I took the new one from my 2005 kit I had (is it possible to buy a replacement piece for this?). Also snugged up the stock rubber behind the primary.

After all this I started it and it runs really damn smooth! Kinda thinking the indexing helped a bit as did the weights.

Also added clutch venting. One thing I discovered is that the front rad delete was done already but they just looped the hoses. So next is to block off the tank line and replace the Tee. One question on that... Do I restrict that flow or just use a simple connector?

That is all for now!:face-icon-small-hap
 
Last edited:
U
Feb 21, 2017
62
15
8
Saskatchewan
Tools used

I will look at posting some pictures of the tools that I made to do all this, the runout piece is super easy. The jam nut tool could be better but I used the metal I had available at the time. The spider tool and clutch holder along with the spring compressor are pretty good already but if I was to do it again I would take some more time to make it prettier.

Will try to get these up Monday.
 
G
Dec 13, 2021
12
8
3
New Mexico
Parts Available

I may have some of what you are looking coming up for sale. Basically my 06 900 is totaled and am waiting for the repair estimate and insurance claim to be settled. Here's what I'd have available:


Indy Specialties primary and secondary (done within the last 250 miles, have paperwork to support). It is set up for 175 lb. rider so you may need to change the spring but it has the adjustable weights which are really handy.


CompFusion motor mounts


Motion Pro throttle/oil cable, if you're interested


Let me know. Matt
I'm new here, do you by any chance still have these parts for sale?
 
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