A
Installing my 15 ST kit on a 2013 CRF450 and the chain seems to long at 69 links. It will hit the track, I'm running a 13 tooth sprocket any ideas what could be wrong? I had a 13 ST kit on it last year and it fit fine.
2015 ST Chain Length question
- Thread starter Adobe-Al
- Start date
I just installed a 15 kit on my KTM450 and the chain was so short I had to pry the counter shaft sprocket on its just the right length and the adjuster just barley has tension on the chain!
C
I'm not positive but didn't they move some stuff around on the 15 kits? I know they went to smaller drivers, moved the drive shaft, maybe they moved the jackshaft too? Just a thought.
A
Something is different, because the chain will hit the track when it is tight. And I didn't change anything on the bike from the last kit.
Mines short enough I could get away without the tensioner!
A
Did you have a kit on this bike last year? Also I would worry about that tight of chain causing my seal to leak.
No this a new bike and kit, I was worried about the seal also but after I got the gear on it is just the right tension with the tensioner just touching, the bike came with a 14 gear, dropped to a 13 ,,no way could the 14 go on,
I ran into this on my 300. Way to tight. Loosened bearing bolts on the top shaft and chain was fine after jackshaft moved forward. Also remember the oringed chain will loosen in the first ride but I remember on my first 500 ktm install upper chain was scary tight for first ride.
Last edited:
A
Just got off the phone Timbersled, they said to run a 14 tooth sprocket. I'm a little worried that might be to tall. We do a lot of are riding above 10,000 ft.
in Colorado. I not sure that it will pull it as well as the 13 tooth did. I wonder how a 12 tooth and a link out would do?
in Colorado. I not sure that it will pull it as well as the 13 tooth did. I wonder how a 12 tooth and a link out would do?
A
Do not cut out a link, it will be to short for the even the next sized sprocket. I with they made 1/2 links for O ring chains. My only option ow is to a 14 tooth. This seems very tall I hope they reduced the gearing on the !5's. :face-icon-small-dis
I check the roll out with the 13 tooth sprocket it was 13.5"
I installed the 14 tooth sprocket and it was 14.5"
Chain is tight as hell.
I installed the 14 tooth sprocket and it was 14.5"
Chain is tight as hell.
P
If you chain is to tight just shorten the strut rod a turn or 2 that should loosen it up a bit. On the MC kit that makes a difference should be the same on the standard kit . Let me Know if it helped on the new Kit.
9
drop 1 tooth in your chain case
A
So go to a 16/17 instead of 17/17. I wonder if timbersled sells a 16 tooth?
My luck the chain case chain will be to loose then!:face-icon-small-fro
9
They don't but I do 60.00 plus 6.00 frt
of course they do! every '15 mountain horse owner who wants to dial their gearing should think about getting one. I'm prepared to dial my climbing gear on day 1! a touch up or down depending on if you put it top or bottom. I'm pretty sure the tensioner inside the cover will work just fine! I think it was like 70 bucks, I'm sure 9milers is just as good!
Last edited:
A
Thanks, I like that idea- dirtrebel-the old kits had 17/21 the new ones have 17/17
so are the new kits geared up?(taller) I know they changed driver size? also how does the engine drive sprocket size relate to the chain case sprockets? (on a dirt bike 1 tooth Front=3 in the rear)
old kits were 17-20 in the case stock, with 7 tooth drivers. new kits are 17-17 in the case stock with 6 tooth drivers. the 6 tooth drivers gear you down so the 1 to 1 in the case gears you back up. we did the calcs and it came to within 1% of the old setup. between changing out engine, jackshaft, and case sprockets you should be able to find something that works for gearing and chain tension. If any engine chains are too tight u could do a few things: try a used chain to start, after a few rides the new chain may fit due to sprocket wear. take the new chain and straighten every sideplate by hand and then nail one end of it to a table and give it a few yanks with a slide hammer or pliers its amazing how much the grease in the pins holds a chain short. If the chain is too tight do not run it, countershaft seals only start leaking when bearing damage is occuring. The loose chain is annoying, but should be able to be overcome, by moving things around. Strut rod included a little bit. I'm not exactly sure how it compares to a bike (1 tooth front = 3 on the back) but being less teeth on both sprckets a one tooth change should make a bigger difference. I'm no expert just a tinkerer.
A
Dirtrebel-Thanks that's good info!
Similar threads
