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Polaris clutch change over

redigar09

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anyone have anymore updates on these clutches? anyone get any time on it with mds weights?
 

4Z

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Would like to take a stab, or guess.

For what it's worth, what is your RPM on that 910? I am assuming 8-8200?
Gearing is pretty low, I know you mentioned a 3" 162, but a 2.48:1 gear ratio might be letting you run out of secondary too quickly. More finish angle, and while your at it a muli with more initial angle? Or, if you have a set of gears that are higher, like say 61/59 (2.17) put in and give it a go.... without making any other changes.

Or, more tip weight?
 

4Z

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Could be wrong, but I think the 2009 gearing was 67/53 (1.77). I know my M7 gearing was 67/53, which is WAY too tall for a mountain sled. Went down to 65/55 (1.9) which is the 2010 and 2011, if I remember correctly. This still was a bit too tall. Note, ported, compression, twin piped 800 BB. 8200 rpm.
 

FTXMOTORSPORTS

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baselines were finished last season on turbo 7's and 8's. 3200 feet and 6-9000'. 8# , 12# and 14# set ups-we prefer the SLP MTX in a p85 with a turbo but the choice of weight is yours to decide.
Durability is not an issue-turbo or otherwise, unless you fall behind on your clutch maintenance.

Curt
 

Coldfinger

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Ok, looking at $1000 initial cost plus the cost of rebuilds.

Approx how many miles between replacing various parts on a stock 2010 M8 and what is the cost?

Maintenance between rides currently consists of blowing out the clutches and non-disassembly visual inspection.
 
T
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On my 09 M8 I had to replace pins and bushings after 750 miles, cat does not make a kit for the new clutches. Cat clutches, for the most part, are not rebuildable....accept for the spring and weights, there is nothing else that can be replaced. There is/are people/companies that are rebuilding them and supplying aftermarket parts, but there's more to it than just clutch parts issue, for me it was the potential failure issue that I didn't like.

After converting to a P-85 I found a number of things the clutch did that the Cat clutch didn't do, besides loosing a couple of pounds of rotating mass....better engagement, easier to feather, better holdback coming downhill to name a few. The clutch is rebuildable and parts are available at a local dealer.
 

4Z

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Running a BDX lite drive in a Polaris IQR chassie & hoping to gather some clutching advice to help solve my belt slipping issues. Both primary & secondary have a build up of belt rubber in the full shift postion.

EQUIPMENT
910 polaris twin - Equal to piped M1 power
3" lug 162 track & 8 tooth 3" pitch drivers
P85 with 10-64 weights & almond spring
BDX drive with 57/63 gearing & 10.4 secondary
RKT str cut 38 helix & green spring with 3rd hole twist
UltraMax XS809 belt
No speedo.

ALIGNMENT METHOD
Use Polaris alignment tool to get clutchs inline & allow.040" for engine twist.
Shim secondary to get belt riding in center of primary. Some trial & error. Does Fast Trax have a alignment tool for offset or a measurement I could use? Not sure my center to center but able to set belt deflection to get belt riding about .1875" out of secondary. Do have abit of belt squeel if stopped.

PERFORMANCE
belt slipage, rubber build up on both clutch faces in full shift area
400- 500 rpm under target in deep powder
Accelerates fairly strong on bottom & feels flat on top. totaly stops up shifting but as mention not pulling full rpm.
Top speed on road ok, short blasts only. 3" track holding up so far.

Is belt getting wet or little misted? Havn't felt any indication of slipage.
Do I need to have more belt side force on secondary? Maybe secondary is allowing belt to shift to quick? My set up is close to what some Cat's are running & sounds like they are working good. Is misalignment an issue or center to center distance a problem? Is belt compond an issue?

I just noticed this, the XS809 is a Polaris belt and is a little larger than the 046 cat belt you should be running.......
 

Dogmeat

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baselines were finished last season on turbo 7's and 8's. 3200 feet and 6-9000'. 8# , 12# and 14# set ups-we prefer the SLP MTX in a p85 with a turbo but the choice of weight is yours to decide.
Durability is not an issue-turbo or otherwise, unless you fall behind on your clutch maintenance.

Curt

What weights and spring rate would you recommend on your setup for 8000-12000 feet, 8-12 psi of boost?
 

FTXMOTORSPORTS

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What weights and spring rate would you recommend on your setup for 8000-12000 feet, 8-12 psi of boost?

165/310 spring, 68-74 gram mtx weights. the specifics of loading the weight with mass would depend on the turbo brand and where it makes best power. As a general rule, we'd start with 2-3 grams in the center for a smaller turbo that spools quick (or an Aerocharger) and we'd shift that mass out towards the tip for the bigger automotive turbo set ups.

Again, more details would be needed to be more specific but that should give you a general idea.

Curt
 
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FTXMOTORSPORTS

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Why? Get the spider shims set-up correctly and add one of these for alot less $$ and you'll have no clutch worries. No I don't have any connection to Lonn other than using his adjustable weights since '98.


http://www.thunderproducts.com/911 Clutch Cover.htm


That is a great product--we've used them for years, back when they were still built by Duane @ HiTech but I'm missing how it will solve the spider cracking issues many of the modern cat primaries have shown us?

Also, If someone can teach me how to remove a cat spider from a USED clutch without destroying the threads 80% of the time I'm all ears! The success ratio has been very low with every trick I can think up.

A NEW (unused) cat primary will typically come apart for spider shimming nicely....but after the engine has hammered away at it a while....good luck!

Hmmmm...maybe Cat didn't supply rebuild parts for these clutches because they they didn't intend them to be disassembled...

Curt
 

snosurfer

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The p85 conversion from Fasttrax is handsdown the best mod i've done to my 06 m7 and I've done ever mod you can think of short of a turbo. The clutch engages way smoother,pulls much harder, runs a lot cooler and best of all hasn't blow up like three of my other cat clutches have. And here is another thing, you know how so many of you guys have trenching problems climbing and boondocking thinking it's your track or suspension, it's not it's your clutching. I have tried multiple tracks and have a timbersled rear susp. with with very little success eliminating the trenching problem no matter how I set it up. I put the p85 on with a properly matched secondary setup (this is key) trenching went away and the sled rips on climbs building more track speed and momentum the higher you climb, and it's way better in the trees braaaping around because it doesn't hammer the track. My buddy has a m7 with the exact same mods I have (except for the clutch) and there is no comparison between the two. He will be buying one as soon as he get's the $$$. Again best 1000 bucks I spent on my sled!! Give Kurt a call these guys know there stuff and are super easy to work with, they got my set up spot on the first time and are there to answer any ? you might have.
 
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