2010 M8 (geo mod & ported track update)

arcticrat · Mar 10, 2010

Geo mod awesome

I did the GEO MOD on my 2009hcr, 85 psi ,rode 5 days in Revy this weekend on some of the roughest trails up, Awesome ride, awesome climbing. Ported the track 1" hole behind each paddle seems to work good a lot less snow inside the rails.

Thanks alot everyone.

summit-x · Mar 10, 2010

alright thanks elvis, im currently runing it at 87 psi right now and love it

longrider · Mar 10, 2010

GEO Mode

Hi there Arcticrat. Hate to get off topic but there just isn't much current info on Revy conditions. What is the snow like in Revy. Where did you ride. We are headed down there next week.
Thanks.

elvis1280 · Mar 11, 2010

summit-x said:
alright thanks elvis, im currently runing it at 87 psi right now and love it

that sounds more like it summit. compared to my weight your right in the perfect range. i hope more people do this to their sleds for a more enjoyable ride and better climbing.
elvis

WyoBoy1000 · Mar 11, 2010

I just can't see how porting helps, would like to here some info on honest performance from porting. I ride hard and am scared to do it after throwing 2g's into the motor from other mods.

White Rad · Mar 11, 2010

longrider said:
Hi there Arcticrat. Hate to get off topic but there just isn't much current info on Revy conditions. What is the snow like in Revy. Where did you ride. We are headed down there next week.
Thanks.

rode 10cm of new monday on top of sun crust not that great but they are getting plenty the next few days should be deep by wkend. i mean it sucks don't go

arcticrat · Mar 12, 2010

Rode Boulder, frisbee,Sale,Keyhole,and quartz creek in Golden, No new snow in weeks, so it very tracked up. The ungroomed trails sucked. Keep checking the weather there, for any snow fall this weekend.

Frostbite · Mar 14, 2010

I did the Geo mod on my 09 M8 yesterday. Here are a few things I learned.

I removed one rear arm stop at a time and drilled a pilot hole and then went up to 1/4" on the shaft the shaft collars mount to so the loctite smeared allen headed lock bolt had a place to lock in place. When both shaft collars were installed I reinstalled the stops with the collars. No problems so far.

Then I very carefully measured the 11.4mm down from the bend and 11.4mm back from the front edge of the drop down bracket and drilled my holes. Here's where the problem came up.

I lifted the rear of my skid with a floor jack (my sled was already on a stand)and the holes would not line up. I could see the front 1/3rd of the hole in the cross over shaft in the holes I had just drilled. I wasn't sure if they were supposed to line up perfectly but, like I said I was 2/3rds of hole out of alignment.

I didn't like it but, I ended up using a ratcheting tie down strap to get the holes to line up but, it sure seems like the either the slide rail holes need to be a bit further forward or down or the drop down bracket holes need to be back a bit further to allow alignment.

I'd make the measurements on the rail at least 10mm down and 10mm forward of the front edge of the holes.

On the drop down brackets, I'd go 12mm down from the bend and at least 12mm and maybe up to 14mm back from the front edge of the drop down bracket.

That would make the holes a whole lot closer to lining up.

I notice I now have a bit more sag in my powerclaw (the track looks loser).

Did I do something wrong or miss something?

dragon12 · Mar 14, 2010

Allright guys, I just finished with the GeoMod. We shall see how it goes next week (maybe). Install was fairly easy.

wart · Mar 15, 2010

Frostbite said:
I did the Geo mod on my 09 M8 yesterday. Here are a few things I learned.

I removed one rear arm stop at a time and drilled a pilot hole and then went up to 1/4" on the shaft the shaft collars mount to so the loctite smeared allen headed lock bolt had a place to lock in place. When both shaft collars were installed I reinstalled the stops with the collars. No problems so far.

Then I very carefully measured the 11.4mm down from the bend and 11.4mm back from the front edge of the drop down bracket and drilled my holes. Here's where the problem came up.

I lifted the rear of my skid with a floor jack (my sled was already on a stand)and the holes would not line up. I could see the front 1/3rd of the hole in the cross over shaft in the holes I had just drilled. I wasn't sure if they were supposed to line up perfectly but, like I said I was 2/3rds of hole out of alignment.

I didn't like it but, I ended up using a ratcheting tie down strap to get the holes to line up but, it sure seems like the either the slide rail holes need to be a bit further forward or down or the drop down bracket holes need to be back a bit further to allow alignment.

I'd make the measurements on the rail at least 10mm down and 10mm forward of the front edge of the holes.

On the drop down brackets, I'd go 12mm down from the bend and at least 12mm and maybe up to 14mm back from the front edge of the drop down bracket.

That would make the holes a whole lot closer to lining up.

I notice I now have a bit more sag in my powerclaw (the track looks loser).

Did I do something wrong or miss something?

I noticed the same things. My sled is a major low-rider now and my front limiter strap is way loose. I started out with 90, then 100, and now I'm back up to 140 psi. Would like a little more ski lift and not really sure if it trenches any less. It does seem to ride a litle better though. Are we missing something or is this idea :crazy:?

Dam Dave · Mar 15, 2010

Frostbite said:
I did the Geo mod on my 09 M8 yesterday. Here are a few things I learned.

. Here's where the problem came up.

I lifted the rear of my skid with a floor jack (my sled was already on a stand)and the holes would not line up. I could see the front 1/3rd of the hole in the cross over shaft in the holes I had just drilled. I wasn't sure if they were supposed to line up perfectly but, like I said I was 2/3rds of hole out of alignment.

I didn't like it but, I ended up using a ratcheting tie down strap to get the holes to line up but, it sure seems like the either the slide rail holes need to be a bit further forward or down or the drop down bracket holes need to be back a bit further to allow alignment.

Did I do something wrong or miss something?

even stock the holes dont always line up, no worrys there, I have to use a bar to get my stock skid lined up, its just the shock pushing back

waycooljr · Mar 16, 2010

elvis1280 said:
this is the best i could do w/ the paint department. it explains it pretty good though.
elvis

Great info!! I have to question you on a measurement though!! On the first post you have a measurement of 10mm forward/10mm down on the skid. On the illustrated post w/pics, you have it @ 9mm forward/10mm down. Was your 10mm/10mm center of factory hole forward? Then on the float shock,(I know it varies by your weight/how it feels) what psi is it being dropped to? Thanks for your info!!

Skinner · Mar 16, 2010

wart said:
I noticed the same things. My sled is a major low-rider now and my front limiter strap is way loose. I started out with 90, then 100, and now I'm back up to 140 psi. Would like a little more ski lift and not really sure if it trenches any less. It does seem to ride a litle better though. Are we missing something or is this idea :crazy:?

That's what happened when I did this on my m1000. I ended up putting it back. I did like the way it handled on the bumps better. After I revalve my shocks I might try it again.

Tookes · Mar 16, 2010

Same to me as well and my track rubs a little at certain times. No worries KMOD A/C kit will be sent on Friday.

eace:

elvis1280 · Mar 17, 2010

waycooljr said:
Great info!! I have to question you on a measurement though!! On the first post you have a measurement of 10mm forward/10mm down on the skid. On the illustrated post w/pics, you have it @ 9mm forward/10mm down. Was your 10mm/10mm center of factory hole forward? Then on the float shock,(I know it varies by your weight/how it feels) what psi is it being dropped to? Thanks for your info!!

10mm and 10mm is actually what works the best and its from the front edge of the stock hole. you should be able to drop the psi down to 85 to 105 if your in the 250lbs + range you could go higer but that is ruining the purpose of this mod. to the last few guys who were rubbing just put a few more psi in the shock. but as the sled is standing there it should be the same height as stock. your hole is going up which you would think makes the sled lower but your standing the arm up straighter when you move the stops.

elvis1280 · Mar 17, 2010

Skinner said:
That's what happened when I did this on my m1000. I ended up putting it back. I did like the way it handled on the bumps better. After I revalve my shocks I might try it again.

the limiter straps are a lot looser but if you tighten up the front shock or in my case i just dropped the front arm it is perfect. you want those straps loose so that skid drops down once you front end is up. it takes a ride to get used to but just spin your front shock nuts up and make it tighter. for less ski pressure

Frostbite · Mar 20, 2010

Elvis, I used your 9mm and 10mm measurements from the pictures you posted. Will that work ok?

Where did all the track slack come from? Mine is now really hanging below the rails.

I have drilled out the lower holes for the front skid bolts but, I haven't had the courage to move to the lower holes yet. Can one still steer the sled reasonably well with this mod and the bolts in the lower holes?

elvis1280 · Mar 20, 2010

depends on your zero pro rear shock. i got my front scissor on the lower hole and i got seven threads showing from bottom up. if the trail is hard pack its not too bad. if there is 2-4 inches on the packed trail there is basically no steering at all (my favorite way to ride) i just go into turns and wait to hit something on the side to bounce me back :face-icon-small-hap. just loosen the zero pro a few threads to 4 or 5 and you'll love it. just get off the gas in the turns and power out of it. mess with your zero pro till you like it.

av8er · Mar 25, 2010

METRIC TO U.S CONVERSION

SLED HAS BEEN GEO-NIZED! 11MM EQUALS 7/16TH OF AN INCH, 10MM EQUALS 3/8 OF AN INCH. FOR YOU NON METRIC GUYS LIKE ME.
EXCITED TO GO GIVE IT A WHIRL, I WEIGH 245 LBS SET IT AT 95 PSI,
ALSO IF YOU LET THE AIR OUT OF YOUR SHOCK BEFORE U ATTEMPT TO MOVE THE BOLT HOLES ON THE SKID BRACKET IT MOVES VERY EASILY, NO NEED FOR RATCHET STRAP LIKE THE PREVIOUS POST TO ALIGN HOLES. THIS IS ALSO ASSUMING YOU HAVE THE WEIGHT OFF THE SLED VIA THE BUMPER

elvis1280 · Mar 27, 2010

Good info aver, i never thought to mention that. anybody doing this mod, you have to empty your float in the rear to allow it to move forward and line up w/ the holes. On mine not even the stock holes line up if you take it apart.

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