2010 M8 (geo mod & ported track update)

elvis1280 · Feb 23, 2010

hatchers said:
nice:face-icon-small-hap......i have not seen this before

so you move the top forward vs moving the bottom back...me like!

exactly, my dealer who has been working on sleds since before i was born said he used to move the bottom backwards? and this is moving the top forwards. i got some paint pictures w/ some measurements also for the other member. i also got track porting pics.

elvis1280 · Feb 23, 2010

this is the best i could do w/ the paint department. it explains it pretty good though.
elvis

Burn Down · Feb 24, 2010

elvis1280 said:
this is the best i could do w/ the paint department. it explains it pretty good though.
elvis

Can you get me a pic of your track clearance to the cooler tubes? I want to do this mod but I am afraid with a 2.5 camo that the lugs will hit the cooler tubes in the tunnel. Not sure I want to clip the corners of the track.

elvis1280 · Feb 24, 2010

Burn Down said:
Can you get me a pic of your track clearance to the cooler tubes? I want to do this mod but I am afraid with a 2.5 camo that the lugs will hit the cooler tubes in the tunnel. Not sure I want to clip the corners of the track.

even though your moving the bolt up on the bracket and the sled should come down it doesn't. beacause your straighten the arm on the suspension so the sled doesn't actually lower at all. my buddy's sled is stock and has the same static height from the bottom of the bracket to the floor as mine does. and the sag w/ us on it is also the exact same. i will post a pic for you though to prove this. in the morning i will do it.

Evolution Powersports · Feb 24, 2010

elvis1280 said:
So like geo says for either 08-10' Center of the hole is 11.4 mm from front edge of brackett
& 11.4 mm down from the bend on mount.

STOP ON RAILS- the 08' were 7.9 mm down
and 7.9 mm forward from inside edge of original hole. well this makes the new hole so close to the old hole is you ever want to switch it back the original hole will become very weak.
So my solution was to make the hole 10mm down from top of rail and 10mm forward from the edge of old hole. then i went to ace and bought two shaft collars inside dia= 5/8 and outside dia= 1 1/8" and placed them over the stops. once installed the stop rests up against the arms perfect. this is what i did because geo said the 09 & 10 stop was down and forward a bit. this allows me to move back to old hole (not that i ever will) if i want to and have all the strength still.

Very nice transfer and as plush a ride as the valveing allows. "geo"

Elvis,

From your pictures, it appears as if you would plumb straight down from the bend the 11.4mm and level straight across from the front angle of the drop bracket. Is this correct?

mtnclimber · Feb 24, 2010

This is correct, you measure 11.4 mm down from the bend in the bracket, then measure 11.4 mm in from the front edge of the bracket, and where the two lines cross is your hole center. Just center punch it and drill. Hope this helps!

backcountryislife · Feb 24, 2010

WyoBoy1000 said:
Do you have a pic

Took this this morning. IT's not perfect, I would like to have them behind the paddle ONLY, but we weren't sure about stretching the track if we offset the holes. After a few thousand miles on a couple tracks we feel strongly that we could offset them without negative effects. My 11 will be drilled offset.

The main thing with the powerclaw is BE CONSERVATIVE. If you decide to do 5 1-1/4" holes... get a spare track ready!!

The bdx tool works great btw, worth the money the way it does the job.

The way we will be doing it next time is one hole behind each paddle, so there is no chance that the snow that is compressing to create thrust can be wasted by going into the tunnel. This one was the first PC that we ported, so we didn't want to take chances that distortion could cause a problem.

WyoBoy1000 · Feb 24, 2010

What where the honest performance results, and with the geo mod do you drop the front of the skid.

av8er · Feb 24, 2010

just finished porting my power claw

drilled 1.5" holes behind each paddle with the holesaw parrallel to the end of the paddle worked well, looks good, about 60-70 holes total. took 20 minutes with A HOLESAW

RickM · Feb 24, 2010

Same as Elvis 1280

Did the Geo Mod to my 09 M8 SP today the same way that Elvis 1280 did using the locking collars. Was a pretty easy suspension fix. I am real anxious to give it a try on some of the rough stuff and see just how much better it rides. I did the Geo Mod on the M7 several years ago, It really made a difference on it. Thanks GEO. RickM

mtnclimber · Feb 24, 2010

WyoBoy...when doing the geomod there is no need to lower the front of the skid. Just move the rear mounting point, and the scissor stop..Takes about 30 min tops.

Burn Down · Feb 24, 2010

elvis1280 said:
even though your moving the bolt up on the bracket and the sled should come down it doesn't. beacause your straighten the arm on the suspension so the sled doesn't actually lower at all. my buddy's sled is stock and has the same static height from the bottom of the bracket to the floor as mine does. and the sag w/ us on it is also the exact same. i will post a pic for you though to prove this. in the morning i will do it.

Thank you, lets see the pic, just seems really close to the cooler tubes. Anyone else do this with a camo extreme?

backcountryislife · Feb 24, 2010

av8er said:
drilled 1.5" holes behind each paddle with the holesaw parrallel to the end of the paddle worked well, looks good, about 60-70 holes total. took 20 minutes with A HOLESAW

You are joking about the 1.5" holesaw right?

WyoBoy1000 · Feb 24, 2010

Has anyone tried it with the front of the skid moved and what did you think. Also has any one tried it with a revalve done on the skid and what where the results.

geo · Feb 25, 2010

Don't move the front sissor mount.
Works better with a revalve. Just need a little less rebound than most revalved specs i've seen.

Geo

ACMtnCat · Feb 25, 2010

Burn Down said:
Thank you, lets see the pic, just seems really close to the cooler tubes. Anyone else do this with a camo extreme?

I ran the geo mod with my CE for half of the '08 season. It did not rub the coolers at all.

WyoBoy1000 · Feb 25, 2010

geo said:
Don't move the front sissor mount.
Works better with a revalve. Just need a little less rebound than most revalved specs i've seen.

Geo

Mine was done by holz and has the dual spring in on the front skid shock. I care more about on the hill performance, would I benefit. all I can see it doing is preloading the rear shock or is there more to it.

Icedog · Feb 25, 2010

geo said:

Don't move the front sissor mount.
Works better with a revalve. Just need a little less rebound than most revalved specs i've seen.

Geo

Click to expand...

I did the Geo mod last year; and just dropped my front mount to the lower hole the other day. I haven't ridden it yet in the lower hole. Should I be putting it back? What are the adverse effects of running the front mount in the lower hole with the Geo mod in the rear?

RickM · Feb 26, 2010

Runner8

here is the geo mod for the M7. This also shows the suspension relocation bracket. I could not attach the photo to your PM.
hope this helps you out. RickM

Shift_Fast · Mar 2, 2010

Did the geo mod on my 2010 M8 with the shaft collars, worked great. One thing I should say is you better be money on with your measurements, not much room for error.

2010 M8 (geo mod & ported track update)

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