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Fox Float Skid Setups

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F
Dec 15, 2007
93
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8
ya me to

i'm only 160 and as soon as i brought it home i let the pressure out of the shocks just to see how every thing worked with out reading the set pressure that was in there i made up my own number so i pumped them up to 100 to 110 psi, and i would sit on it and it would sag and then when i would get off it would not rebound, so it looked like i was riding with a flat tire. or i thought it was cool to have a low rider. Went to the dealer and the guys is the same size as me, he said he has his set at 140 to 150 so i did that now i look like eveyone else with a jacked up ford but maybe it will work, just don't want a sore back after one day of riding
 
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FCR112

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2nd time trenching most of the day on my 08 w/powerclaw??? My front shock in my skid doesn't lock no matter how hard I twist the lock nutz into each other with the tools in the kit. I can still grab the front spring nutz and adjust it with my hand... I wonder if it's moving while riding, thread locker is my next mod:eek:

Back won't rebound below 140psi/ or fast enough, front doesn't seem to stay in one place? Maybe I rolled it one too many times for everything to work like it's supposed to? Still trying to dial it in, weighing about 225 w/gear.
 
Last edited:

mrquick68

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Dec 20, 2004
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Kirkland, WA
Alright - time for a ride report - FINALLY!!! Got a chance to get off trail and do some testing with my latest updates on the stock 08 skid with Holz updates. VERY happy so far. Got to ride in some bottomless and don't seem to be trenching too bad either. Rides like a Caddy over the whoops too. I am VERY happy with the dual stage air shock on the rear and the new valving. this sled is gonna be WAY fun!

See my setup below. 120psi in the main chamber and 150psi and secondary chamber. Awesome. Great transfer too actually. If i want the skis in the air, i step back a little further, if i want the front to stay down i just lean forward. FYI - NO Geo mod. Best skid i've ever ridden.
 

tsnowak

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Nov 30, 2007
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bigger guys, jumpers

FYI on air pressure, last year I had a float kit for my 07' skid, made by carbon sled, they still sell it. it uses the stock rear arm. last spring when I was jumping a lot at one point the rear shock was pumped to 270psi and had multiple rides at that pressure. with the kit I couldnt get all the sag out of it, or stiff enough. pulled skid to service this summer and rear arm was bent but shock was perfect! they (carbonsled) said to pump it up as much as I needed to make it work for me. setup was not the same as 08'-09' m's, but it was similar. beware though last couple inches of travel get very stiff at high pressures. if i had an 08'-09' I wouldnt hesitate to play with presssures over 150. So if you need to air it up more the shock will be fine, however there is no substitute for having someone that can listen, understand your needs and then build valving for you.
 
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FCR112

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Thanks for the constructive input! Way too often the replies on this site are like a banner hanging off a plane...advertising
 

catzr

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Jan 13, 2008
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Selah
08 float

MRQUICK68
if I may ask, how much do you have invested in the Holz susp. mod?
Sounds like the answer.
 

mrquick68

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$175 is all. though i don't think they are offering the Air Chamber mod officially yet. I heard it may be coming out mid season though as more official modification. I'm very happy so far though.
 
D

doornenbal

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Dec 3, 2007
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It seems to me that the geo mod will reduce the sag/rebound issues on a the 08 skid but there is not a bunch of feedback re trenching. I want to try the geo mod but the instructions are off too me.

The top hole is not an issue very well explained and two solid edges to mark from! X marks the spot

The bottom hole is where I go wrong. 7.9 mm from the top of the rail ...easy nice straight line. The top inside edge of the original hole????????? do you hope you hold exactly on the very top of the old hole??? do you follow the edge of the old hole with the scribe?????

Any help would be great.


The following is from the old thread

There are a couple of pics. The top mount center location is 11.4 mm from front edge and same distance from bottom of bend on the mount.

The new stop location on rails is 7.9 mm from top of rail and same from top inside edge of original hole.
 
G

geo

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Dec 1, 2007
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I haven't been able to reply to messages this year 'cause of a BIG honey-do list LOL. Sorry LOL.

The suspention mod only changes the geometry, not the valveing. You're stuck with the too heavy rebound that the old guy (he should retire) that sets up the shocks Cat seems to like.
What the change does is stroke the shock approx. 10% more in the first 1/2 of travel and 10% less in the last 1/2 of travel, per inch of suspention travel. This allows you to start with less pressure (better ride in hieght, for me) and still not bottom. Theoretically it will allow more transfer (does for me), by allowing the rear sissor to move more than before.
Some dont feel that. Cool. Everyone is different in what they expect or feel.

The AC skid geometry is very coupled ( front arm moves up and rear shock has to too, and visa versa), so its hard to get the Doo skis in the air effect (need a turbo, LOL, then you will want less transfer LOL). That geometry also gives the best angle of attack (lots of benefits there) and keeps it through the rear sissor stroke.

Having more rear sissor movement on the AC skid does not make it trench more (because the angle of attack does not increase).
If you have too much middle spring pressure the track will saw through the snow and take longer to get on top. Trouble is a soft middle spring setting makes for heavy steering on the trail and off throttle ( so keep it pinned LOL). Pick your poison as I said before.
A good comprimise is a dual spring set on the middle shock (near zero spring pressure initially, when on the throttle and the middle shock is extended, and the front of the sled is supported by the stiffer second spring when off throttle). Ride in hieght is crucial when using a dual spring middle shock set-up to allow this transition point to be just right for you.

A good revalve is just a treat to ride on and if you plan on keeping the sled, do it. Best money you could ever spend for yourself. You will still need the dual spring set-up and proper ride hieght for you to get the best of both worlds (trail and powder).


I bought an adjustable air resevoir this year from Nextech in Canada (bigger volume change that Fett Bros, so more adjustability). It does the same as the suspention mod ( but costs more money) in that it allows more shock stroke before the air pressure stops travel.
The biggest benefit is allowing you to run more air pressure initially which helps counteract the heavy rebound some (but still not enough IMHO). Also when you have to double your honey on Sunday you just need to crank in the volume control LOL. Never pull out the pump again LOL.

If Holz is revalveing both shocks, supplying and installing a air resevoir, and a dual front spring set-up for a $175, then that is the answer for everyone's questions. It can't be done any cheaper, that's for sure, and will be the best money you have spent.
If it's designed by Holz, it will work.

Geo
 

mrquick68

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Dec 20, 2004
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Kirkland, WA
I haven't been able to reply to messages this year 'cause of a BIG honey-do list LOL. Sorry LOL.

The suspention mod only changes the geometry, not the valveing. You're stuck with the too heavy rebound that the old guy (he should retire) that sets up the shocks Cat seems to like.
What the change does is stroke the shock approx. 10% more in the first 1/2 of travel and 10% less in the last 1/2 of travel, per inch of suspention travel. This allows you to start with less pressure (better ride in hieght, for me) and still not bottom. Theoretically it will allow more transfer (does for me), by allowing the rear sissor to move more than before.
Some dont feel that. Cool. Everyone is different in what they expect or feel.

The AC skid geometry is very coupled ( front arm moves up and rear shock has to too, and visa versa), so its hard to get the Doo skis in the air effect (need a turbo, LOL, then you will want less transfer LOL). That geometry also gives the best angle of attack (lots of benefits there) and keeps it through the rear sissor stroke.

Having more rear sissor movement on the AC skid does not make it trench more (because the angle of attack does not increase).
If you have too much middle spring pressure the track will saw through the snow and take longer to get on top. Trouble is a soft middle spring setting makes for heavy steering on the trail and off throttle ( so keep it pinned LOL). Pick your poison as I said before.
A good comprimise is a dual spring set on the middle shock (near zero spring pressure initially, when on the throttle and the middle shock is extended, and the front of the sled is supported by the stiffer second spring when off throttle). Ride in hieght is crucial when using a dual spring middle shock set-up to allow this transition point to be just right for you.

A good revalve is just a treat to ride on and if you plan on keeping the sled, do it. Best money you could ever spend for yourself. You will still need the dual spring set-up and proper ride hieght for you to get the best of both worlds (trail and powder).


I bought an adjustable air resevoir this year from Nextech in Canada (bigger volume change that Fett Bros, so more adjustability). It does the same as the suspention mod ( but costs more money) in that it allows more shock stroke before the air pressure stops travel.
The biggest benefit is allowing you to run more air pressure initially which helps counteract the heavy rebound some (but still not enough IMHO). Also when you have to double your honey on Sunday you just need to crank in the volume control LOL. Never pull out the pump again LOL.

If Holz is revalveing both shocks, supplying and installing a air resevoir, and a dual front spring set-up for a $175, then that is the answer for everyone's questions. It can't be done any cheaper, that's for sure, and will be the best money you have spent.
If it's designed by Holz, it will work.

Geo

as noted before, they are not offering the air chamber mod at this time. Look for somthing mid season. in the mean time, its still quiet beneifical to get everything else revalved and the new spring stack. You can add the air chamber mod at anytime yourself. easy install and the valving is not effected. Honestly, i'm hoping Fox comes out with this product as an official offering. Fingers crossed! :)
 

CATSLEDMAN1

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Premium Member
Nov 27, 2007
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Missoula, Montana
good stuff

I have 08 skid on 07 m8.

So far I have tried;

about 4 different springs in front skid shock
two different front shock lengths
no limiter strap.........actually not needed at all
currently running less rebound more nitrogen pressure in front (250 psi )
lower and upper front skid position

rear:
less rebound dampening
geo mod
all air pressures

Biggest positive changes I have made so far:
powerclaw track lightens front when you hit throttle , other tracks......mush
Geo says run rear air low and sagging and forget it........he's correct..for me
narrowed front ski stance to make sled as tippy as possible......way good
no wheels

trenching elimination kit was burning the stock track....Pclaw way gooder

I weigh 225 with wet gear and sandwich's, ran 100 psi rear for three days in powder, sidehilling fool this way, yup sags in the parking lot and looks funny, don't worry, deflect looks and try it. No sled works standing still in showroom.
Got to adjust to no SPRINGS!..........mentally.

GOING TO TRY:
rear shock valve body porting
another remote air chamber
more riding less wrenching!

Just looked for shock customer, internal parts front shock rear skid all same 07-09, part #'s same if I recall

Mike
 
M
Mar 1, 2008
254
67
28
Canada
My 09 M8 (Not SP) setting

Rear Float : 100psi
Central shock : 1/8 preload
Front shock : I look 1'' 5/8 of thread up the shock ajuster

I weight 175-180lbs

With this setup, for me, it's best compromise between a trail riding, boondocking, and hillclimbing.
 
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