Just read this today so I had to investigate my second hand purchased M1000 Big Bore. Pulled the Skid Plate and this is what I found. Can somebody confirm that this oiler is correct?
The Oil Delete Thread
- Thread starter JHG
- Start date
Wow....................Someone actually brought this post back from the dead! It looks right. Not sure why the hose isn't shorter though. Looks kinda long, but should be fine..........I need to do this to mine this weekend.
Aaron
Aaron
Worked good for me!! Thanks Mark!
You can even see the brass gear (almost) in the first pic. dumped some oil in until it came out where the oil pump was and then slapped the "custom" fab'd cover on.
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S
Great info here on this thread! I'm getting ready to do a bdx delete on an 07 1000. Reviewing this entire thread would it be safe to drill the bottom of the case and run the one way valve line and put a zerk at the end of the block off plate? Grease for the water pump and premixed for the inner bearings? I've been told that the seals on the inner bearings are a positive seal (one way). So fluids can get out of that inner chamber. This makes sense when guys use just straight oil and get crazy smoking. Will the case drilling be sufficient for two bearings when it's only drawing off one cylinder?
R
OK SO I READ MOST OF THE INFO ON THIS THREAD! ALTHOUGH A LOT OF INFO AND THE BELIEFS ARE GREAT I HAVE ONE PROBLEM WITH THE ORIGINAL IDEA.
OK HERE GOES IF YOU ARE PUTTING OIL IN THE WATER PUMP HOUSING BECAUSE OF AN OIL PUMP DELETE. PREMIX CAN'T LUBRICATE IT CORRECT. SOOO WERE DOES THE OIL GO IN THE WATER PUMP HOUSEING?
OK HERE GOES IF YOU ARE PUTTING OIL IN THE WATER PUMP HOUSING BECAUSE OF AN OIL PUMP DELETE. PREMIX CAN'T LUBRICATE IT CORRECT. SOOO WERE DOES THE OIL GO IN THE WATER PUMP HOUSEING?
The oil or grease that you put in the center section finds it's way past the seals. It seems more goes out than comes in, and that SOME sleds get less than others. Most delete kits out there are sold to people who are not on here, and they install per directions. I'm sure every now & then one fails... but it's not common if they do, so it must get some premix in there. Also looking at the sleds I've torn down, or just pulled the zerk from, they do get some premix in there, because it's never just grease I see coming out, it's much thinner.
R
So basically the factory put the oil pump line to make sure oil was constant! Ok THANKS!
Which can easily, cheaply & reliably be replaced with grease.
This is a really simple thing... those that want to make it not so simple can do so all they want, but it doesn't need to be hard.
E
ok how about a t'd line from the carb boots to the center section using the stock line and fitting ? what are the thoughts on that and if you do some thing like this or the grease zerk is the bdx pice really needed ?
The line in the boots is intended to suck oil... why would you want that attach that to the center section?
The bdx part is what holds the pto shaft, so that's a required part of the equation.
Honestly, this is really simple, whether you do a zerk or not, just shove a bunch of grease into the center section when you do the install.
Adding a drop bottle, or some line to the carbs... is just asking for problems.
IF you want to get complicated about it, here's some stuff to chew on that may interest you.
Having a big discussion about what is the absolute safest way to do this with a friend recently, this is what we've come up with ourselves.
The zerk COULD leak, or fail, or unscrew in theory, and since it's in a spot where you don't look much, if you just run a line to the banjo fitting and put your zerk where you can see it when you open the hood, this does a few things:
#1, the banjo can't unscrew, as it's got a line attached to it.
#2, no zerk to possibly leak down low.
#3, if the case was dry, you've got the whole line filled with grease as a bit of "spare"
#4, if the zerk were to fail, you'd see it.
#5, being easily accessed, and not requiring removal of the belly pan, you're more likely to add a bit every now & then, whether you want to think it's needed or not, it's not going to HURT, so why not!
That's what we came up with when trying to completely eliminate any chance of failure. IMO... stuff it with grease & go ride, don't think about it again... zerk, bolt, whatever, but if something makes you nervous, this should eliminate that.
Tundramonkey helped me with my oil delete just a week ago. I'm still getting everything put together; hopefully operational in a few days. We drilled the case, from the top half of the case to the chamber that holds the pump gearing. First time I've had any motor completely tore down. He taught me a lot. Here's a couple pictures 
it's the top of the two holes.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
it's the top of the two holes. 
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
B
So basically you just drill a hole at a 45degree in the middle below where the bearing sits towards the existing oil passage like in the pic i posted from an earlier post? I am replacing my crank so i will be in there, I have a m1000 2008
B
Oil delete m1000 crank case 45degree drill ? For oiling water pump shaft bearing
Sorry but i doubt I will get an answer in the oil delete thread since I cant even read page 4 because I am standard member and maybe someone else will get helped from this. My engines crank went bad, bad cage bearing on the flywheel side. Anyways I am rebuilding my engine and when I bought the sled it came with the oil delete and since the guy I bought it from seemed to be a hack I doubt he did the oil delete correct. Basically after everything I have read the best thing to do is drill a 45degree hole from below the center crank bearing sort of by a locating pin into the water pump shaft housing sort of up towards one of the existing oiling holes. Could someone confirm this or maybe explain in better detail or is there even a writeup? I can make a better tutorial if there is not one but I really wanna get it right. Am I over thinking it and is just having a hole going anywhere from the mail crank case to the water pump shaft housing enough? I attached a pic I found in the other thread in here as well, someone please clarify all of this for me,thanks.
Sorry but i doubt I will get an answer in the oil delete thread since I cant even read page 4 because I am standard member and maybe someone else will get helped from this. My engines crank went bad, bad cage bearing on the flywheel side. Anyways I am rebuilding my engine and when I bought the sled it came with the oil delete and since the guy I bought it from seemed to be a hack I doubt he did the oil delete correct. Basically after everything I have read the best thing to do is drill a 45degree hole from below the center crank bearing sort of by a locating pin into the water pump shaft housing sort of up towards one of the existing oiling holes. Could someone confirm this or maybe explain in better detail or is there even a writeup? I can make a better tutorial if there is not one but I really wanna get it right. Am I over thinking it and is just having a hole going anywhere from the mail crank case to the water pump shaft housing enough? I attached a pic I found in the other thread in here as well, someone please clarify all of this for me,thanks.
