Lets see your snowbike projects!!!
- Thread starter screech
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Here is me and my buddys project last winter.
Not really a new design. More like a home made Timbersled MH style.
Ski Doo MXZ skid with FOX float.
Now waiting for delivery of our new bikes, KTM 500 EXC :face-icon-small-coo
Not really a new design. More like a home made Timbersled MH style.
Ski Doo MXZ skid with FOX float.
Now waiting for delivery of our new bikes, KTM 500 EXC :face-icon-small-coo
T
I like your snorkle idea. Must have been built in the summer, nothing half done.
I like.
I like.
S
Here's where I'm at now... My whole front end is done and I'm running a gen 2 Simmons. I have to cut down the track and make custom suspension arms. But it's coming along nicely.
If you don't mind me asking, where did you get all your sprockets and brake system? I'm still tracking stuff down like the chains, sprockets, drivers/shaft, brake system, and tensioner...
We took the break disk and caliper from a Ski Doo MXZ. Too big I think. The disk had to be placed on the side of the frame, not between. Thawing snow dripped from muffler on to the calipper causing it to ice. Had to make a cover. I would have chosen a smaller, like from a rear brake from a small motorbike.
The chains and sprockets was bought from a industrial transmision supplier.
We also made a special spring loaded chain tensioner (the chain from motor)
I made several stalls before installing Recluse . That caused a great force on the tensioner on the unloaded part of chain. It broke. The spring is dampening the stress on the tensioner and also maintain correct tension.
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so you finally inspired me to pull my kit apart, it has been off of the bike just sitting in the garage, I just got done dismantling the entire kit, by the looks of it I have a lot of r&d to do, lots of bent stuff:face-icon-small-fro, interesting fact tho, I have alot less hardware on my kit than most and just the nuts, bolts, washers, drive axle bearings and brake caliper all together in a cardboard box weighted just over 10lbs on the scale! one goal I guess is to lighten up the hardware end of the kit.
S
Where did you get your brake system and sprockets and bearings?
Nice, keep up the good work!
What track and skid will you run?
Stock snowmobile suspensions have the upper wheels on the outer side and springs on the inner side. That was a problem when we cut the track. We ditched the springs and went for FOX float in rear.
so if you ditch the torsion springs can u replace the rear shock with a coil over or air shock using the same linkage and all, or do you have to reengineer and strengthen the mounts? In the past I have been running with the torsion spring setup, only I run only 1 of the springs for the right stiffness, I want to use a coilover going forward, and get rid of my ghetto 1 spring method, it just seems like I will need to beef up the mounts and maybe change them to accomodate such a shock and spring? I run skids out of 2000 and newer ski doos, polaris and arctic. My main question is if u replace the torsion springs with a coilover can it just be put right into the system or does it require more than that to make it still move correctly?
As far as I know it's impossible to keep the torsion springs when the wheels are moved due to a narrower track. At least on a Doo suspension.
The length and stroke of the new shock is other than stock. The mount had to be made stronger and a bit different.
A coilover would probably work. We did'nt know what spring load was suitable. Air shocks are easier to adjust.
The length and stroke of the new shock is other than stock. The mount had to be made stronger and a bit different.
A coilover would probably work. We did'nt know what spring load was suitable. Air shocks are easier to adjust.
S
Thanks. I need to keep working on it, but it's coming along well. I have a 121" x 1.5 I think that I'll be starting with(cuz I already had it) will probably upgrade to a bigger lug later. I have rails from a Polaris and I will be making my own suspension arms similar to the MH setup.
How did you cut down the track? I'm trying to decide thenbestnway to tackle that.
A
The only way I have heard to cut down a track is with a table saw. Most setups I have seen or heard about support the track above the table saw so you can rotate the track, a barrel suspended above the saw would work pretty well. I think most flip the track inside out, making it easier to feed the track through the blade.
I did the cut with an angle grinder.
It smokes and smells like hell but by doing it outdoors you can cope with it :face-icon-small-win.
Suspended the track with a fork lift.
The cutting was made from inside of the track.
It smokes and smells like hell but by doing it outdoors you can cope with it :face-icon-small-win.
Suspended the track with a fork lift.
The cutting was made from inside of the track.
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super easy but kinda slow way is to use a band saw with a metal cutting blade, I like using a hand held bandsaw if you have one, turn the saw down as slow as it goes dont use any lube, just take your time, no stink, no smoke, the saw just chews through like butter.
track sawing
back when we had 13.5 cats we tried every thing to cut tracks down............but cutting my snowbike track was easiest, just uesed a sawzall demo saw, took about 15 minutes with Dan helping, set track on bench with track hanging out a couple of inches, one guy holding track, one guy sawing...........no smoke, really pretty uneventful.
back when we had 13.5 cats we tried every thing to cut tracks down............but cutting my snowbike track was easiest, just uesed a sawzall demo saw, took about 15 minutes with Dan helping, set track on bench with track hanging out a couple of inches, one guy holding track, one guy sawing...........no smoke, really pretty uneventful.
S
P
Use the metal cuting bandsaw bolt the little table to it with a slider bolted on it. With 2 persons you can just feed it through -- perect cut and spacing all the way arround about 5 minuts to do a track.
S
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