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Pro Chassis too ...Here is your answer to cooling concerns!

FTXMOTORSPORTS

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Here's another one that will help some of you...we are building coolers for the guys going from shorter to longer tracks-144/155 to 163/174 etc...it will tie in the same as our turbo cooler and run to the REAR of your new longer tunnel extension-eliminating the need for a full custom u-cooler and supplying the volume and proper cooler location you need.They cost 390.00 and come with tie in hoses/hose guard and clamps. Also,don't forget we build coolers for ANY application-call with your dimensions and we'll git-r-done.(I know, bad pun)!
will post pics as soon as I can find them....
Thanks for the reminder Eric!
curt
 

NapaMatt

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You can get them at your local Napa store, though most counter staff will not know what you are talking about...


lol.. Thats about right lol


THEYE SUPPLY HAS THEM!!!!!

They Work VERY well it's a ONE Time Use..

Very Clean LOOK!!!
 

rmk2112

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2 questions:

1. Can this be modified to fit on a 2006 700?
2. With regards to the hoses and clamps, where could I find someone who makes the stainless steel braided hose and new heat clamps for the rear cooler to foot rails connection?
 

Ask Yourself

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I have one of these coolers on my turbo assualt and it rocks... no heat issues what so ever... its a must for all turbo or low snow guys....
 

mountainhorse

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RMK2112:
2 questions:

1. Can this be modified to fit on a 2006 700?
2. With regards to the hoses and clamps, where could I find someone who makes the stainless steel braided hose and new heat clamps for the rear cooler to foot rails connection?

For the PRE RAW chassis (2006) You can get the hose, by the foot for the running boards from summitracing.com IMO, use the heat shrink clamps on the ends to keep a clean look and to keep them from fraying.

NO, this will not work on the 2005/2006 IQ-RMK's...

If you need more cooling, 1200psi on this forum can make you a very nice double pass cooler...OR Vanamburg ent....but you are looking at some serious money ($300 +)

I've never run into a 2005/6 that had cooling problems from lack of capacity though.
 
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mountainhorse

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The PRO-Chassis RMK's went thru a big weight loss program to reach the 435 lb mark.

The cooling system capacity was decreased and optimized to handle the demands of the STOCK ENGINE... very well.

The new coolers have significantly less surface area and heat shedding capacity than the previous Dragon models.

But... if you are pumping it up a bit with a turbo, the thermal demands of the motor will be stepped up too...

Basic physics.. more HP = more heat.

attachment.php


COOLERS COMPARED.jpg
 
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milehighassassin

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But... if you are pumping it up a bit with a turbo, the thermal demands of the motor will be stepped up too...

Basic physics.. more HP = more heat.

Not always true. If you are more efficient you can have more power and less heat. Heat is a product of wasted energy.

Turbos are more efficient because they are using wasted energy to produce more power.

That is part of the reason a diesel motor takes longer to warm up, more efficient. In theory a 100% efficient motor (not possible) will produce zero heat.

I read about a guy that has a 6-stroke motor and it does not require a radiator.
 

mountainhorse

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In theory yes... to some degree Milehigh... but in these applications... where you are adding over 100hp in most cases... the difference in any kind of efficiency is not there.

Show me a reciprocating engine, especially with ones that have as wildly varying throttle/load demands, that does not need a good cooling system.

Burn more fuel...make more HP... make more heat, unless you are changing the frictional properties of the engines.

Mod and Turbo engines burn more fuel.... make more heat.... ESPECIALLY when we are talking about the the same engine, without any internal mods to them (bolt the turbo kit on and go)

In my 25 yrs experience with big marine diesel motors... a Ti motor always had a much larger cooling system than its N.A. brethren.

I believe that diesel motors (compression ignition motors) take longer to warm up because of different factors like lower heat content of the fuel and the character of the combustion process.... the non turbo motors seem to take the same time as the turbo diesels to warm up.

I see where you are coming from and I love to play devils advocate as well, but in this case, IMO, splitting hairs.

Bottom Line is that the new PRO Chassis RMK"s have a significantly smaller capacity cooling system when compared to the previous years ... with the same engine/output. The engineers saw a surplus of capacity before and pared it down to a comfortable minimum to drop weight.

Will it be enough for a stock system... I have no doubts, for one that makes 100+ more hp like a turbo can... HMMM...

The turbo will void the warranty anyway.... having extra cooling is good measure IMO.

I guess I should have been more precise
Basic physics.. more HP = more heat... from the same motor
 
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milehighassassin

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I hear what you are saying and also agree, I just wanted to point out that there doesn't always have to be more heat. I think it is honestly too early to claim that the cooling system is not adequate when adding power. I think a properly designed cooling system can do the job even if it is smaller. I myself have NEVER had an issue with overheating or getting too high of coolant temps. Of course when I ride I make it a point to get into some powder or hitting the side of a trail when I am on the trail to get some snow to the coolers. I also throw snow on the tunnel and hyfax to prevent getting too hot.

When I am in powder there is so much snow hitting the coolers that is really a non-issue.
I have not had a turbo (sled) so I don't know exactly how much more heat you will generate, but I would think the system could keep up.

Basically, I wouldn't rush out and put the larger system in until it is proven that it cannot keep up. Having a larger than needed cooling system in will not gain you anything.

Kinda a moot point in this thread, but I believe diesel fuel (#2) has more BTU's in it that gasoline does. Which is also why you can get more "mileage" out of it.
Diesel: 147,000 BTU/gallon Gasoline: 125,000 btu/gallon
 

Reg2view

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Not to hijack more, but a diesel produces more combustion heat due to its much higher compression - as most of you know, a diesel uses compression only to ignite fuel/air. Thermal efficiency of a diesel is only about 5% higher than a gas motor, both are way below 50%. Much larger surface area, to handle compression, and much greater coolant capacities result in way less heat wasted out the pipe at anything except full throttle. I'm no diesel tech, but that's how my diesels have worked. The differences are so extreme, it tough to compare the two.
 

FTXMOTORSPORTS

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interesting points from all...having experience with both chassis and having built and had to figure out how to cool everything from 350 hp turbo rotarys to 350-400 hp n/a AND turbo two stroke triples in a variety of chassis', I will tell you this: the new Pro will have two issues when it comes to turbo applications for the masses...engine mounting and cooling. In some applications the IQ DID have cooling issues with boost although it depended highly on conditions and riding style. Based off that prior experience and the knowledge that we've lost a significant percentage of volume and area with the Pro coolers, I'll expect more cooling issues than we saw with the IQ for sure. Thats why I used IQ coolers on my recently finished Pro chassis build-

projectprormk058.jpg


projectprormk070.jpg


Don't get me started on the Pro motor mounting ...sometimes I wonder about our beloved Polaris engineers!

we've got the final fix for that though!

plateandboards011.jpg


party on!

curt
 

NapaMatt

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Yes.. this might be a great idea but.. my ? is

How are u going to connect Round rubber hose to a Square Tube of Alum. That connects the two rear coolers in the back..

MH if u could post the first pic of the Mt Tamer suspension pic u can see this..


thanks guys

attachment.php
 
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429dhm

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Thanks MH!

OO i am sure he does...

I am sure a good welder can fab up a adaptor .. but that would be alot of welding and cutting then your going to be battling clearance issues!

My .02

Matt

I kind of had a look at the Pro in the shop, not knowing allot of tunnel construction and welding how would you be able to lay a bead at near the roof of the tunnel. I imagine you would have to remove the stock coolers from the tunnel to get access to the square cross tube. Are the stock coolers easy to remove from the tunnel to allow more access for welding?
Would it be more cost effective and better cooling just to replace the stock cooler with a custom cooler?
 
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FTXMOTORSPORTS

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The easiest way is to remove the closeout (snow flap mount) from the rear of the tunnel-that leaves the center tunnel strip hanging over the cooler corssover tube. Then we trim the center tunnel strip material away where the cut and weld needs to occur. This is easiest done by placing a thin steel sheet between the center tunnel strip and the cooler crossover tube and then using a 1.25" hole saw to neatly cut a round "access hole" for your torch.(the steel sheet prevents the holesaw from damaging your cooler tube beneath) We cut the cooler tube from the bottom with a cutoff wheel, clean it up and then weld the nipples on. I'm getting ready to do one in the shop this week-I'll post up some pics for you guys of the process-its really not as scary as it sounds!

CUrt
 
Z

ziperhead

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very interested in this cooler, i ride flat land aswell as the hills, so it would be nice to reduce the heat isue. sign me up when there ready to go!!
 
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