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Low gearing advice

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Danbot

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Waiting for my 15 snowcheck std163 to arrive, making my short parts list so I can have everything ready to go ASAP.
I want to run low gearing on this sled, and have been trying to figure out which chain to get. I haven't had any luck finding a chart so here's my questions:
19/44 Is where I want to be I think, but have not been able to find out which chain would work, can anyone help?
19/45 I am told will just barely fit on the bottom, and uses a 74p chain, can anyone confirm?

Thanks for any help!
 

mountainhorse

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Granto...Thanks.!
I didn't even see that in the manual.

It doesn't list the 20/46-76P... put it works as a combo for 2.30:1

Here's a larger version.

attachment.php

















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Gear, Pitch,Ratio,Speed  Chart.jpg
 
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Danbot

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Thanks for the pointers everyone! (and the charts)
I didn't think the 46 would fit in the case.... this presents another option for me.
 
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Danbot

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What kind of performance gains , other than probably a little more track speed do you get by gearing down?

At climbing speed, the belt will ride much further out on the drive clutch. This gives the belt a larger radius to bend around the clutch, and more belt to sheave contact. Track speed may or may not improve, but the clutching tends to be more consistent, and belts last longer.
 

TRS

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At climbing speed, the belt will ride much further out on the drive clutch. This gives the belt a larger radius to bend around the clutch, and more belt to sheave contact. Track speed may or may not improve, but the clutching tends to be more consistent, and belts last longer.

Yes, It puts you in the sweet spot of your clutching. Runs much cooler temps. Naturally aspirated sleds I run and recommend 19-46.
 
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Danbot

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After looking at the chart, I am leaning towards the 19/45 (2.37) combo.
I hate to dismiss the 20 vs 19 top advice, but I ran 19 for years in my 900RMK problem free and I was really hoping to get close to 2.40 which doesn't seem possible with a 20.

On my 900, 19/43 worked well, but the belt was still not up on the sheave where I wanted it at climbing trackspeed. I'm really excited to play with gearing, the last 2 seasons riding a QD I was always wishing I could affordably change gearing.
It was your thread that lead me to snowchecking a STD 163 this year mountainhorse, thank you for always being informative!
 
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Danbot

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Yes, It puts you in the sweet spot of your clutching. Runs much cooler temps. Naturally aspirated sleds I run and recommend 19-46.

Thanks TRS, 46 even for otherwise bone stock sleds?
Mine (when I get it) is a STD 163 800 and all I am going to do is gearing / can.
 

LoudHandle

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According to my notes even the 47 Tooth will fit but is nearly impossible to find / acquire. I will not run a chain anymore so I can not validate that. I used it strictly to validate beneficial ratios / desired track speed when developing my belt drive setup. FWIW
 
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geo

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Check the ratios other brand mtn. 800's run stock. Why leave that advantage on the table? Even if the Poo clutches can take it.
 

TRS

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Check the ratios other brand mtn. 800's run stock. Why leave that advantage on the table? Even if the Poo clutches can take it.

George, did you buy a Raptor? I see a tuning fork in your signature. Love my modded Rappy in the dunes.
 
Last edited:
Q
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So with gearing down, Is there any clutching mods that need to be done? Shouldn't be cause you're not effecting clutch operation, only where the belt rides at a given speed, right?
Looking at going 19/45 or 46 on a 2012 800 with stock drivers/track.
 
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