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Voltage regulator

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boondocker155

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Sep 5, 2013
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I want to check my voltage regulator to make sure that it's working properly. Does anybody know how to check these are what to look for? How many volts should this thing be putting out? Thanks


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boondocker155

Well-known member
Sep 5, 2013
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Would a bad voyage regulator cause running issues or a really low idle?


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boondocker155

Well-known member
Sep 5, 2013
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What year sled?

What makes you suspect the Voltage regualtor?

Has there been anything, electrically speaking, added OR deleted on your sled?




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So it's a 12 pro 800. Its a long story but it starts with the bogging issue I had a couple weeks ago. Plugged it into the digital wrench and the code was something to do with low voltage. I found a short in the wire to the speedometer and fixed it and then the bog went away. I rode it twice after that and it ran great both times. I rode it last week and it wouldn't idle worth crap and was just running bad at idol. My first thought was the TPS but I don't see how it could've been out of adjustment since the last time I rode? I thought the voltage reg would be a good place to start.. When it was running bad at idle the check engine light was flashing on and off so I do need to plug it into the digital wrench again and see what it says. I'm just wanting to avoid buying an ecu if the vr is bad.


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mountainhorse

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How did the speedometer wire get damaged?... Did you raise the bars or get in an accident?

IF you have ever bumped into anything with the front bumper (tree/trailer etc)... check the left side of the overstructure where the front bumper bolts to that... There are all of the brown ground wires tied into that... if the tab for the bumper mount is cracked or broken... you will have a "bad" ground that will cause problems... Or if the bolt has worked loose or there is corrosion on those ring terminals... clean them up.

NOTE: The tab can be cracked but not broken off visually ... check it thoroughly.

Then, with the sled running, using a good quality meter... Check for voltage by back-probing the Red wire coming out of the voltage regulator mounted to the clutch cover (2011/12 models)... and the brown wire connection at the chassis ground... You should have around 14.5 volts.

If it is Not 14.5 volts... Stop the sled ... pull the power-capacitor and check it as follows.

And
Check the ECU capacitor ...
Capacitor Testing
1. Charge the capacitor for 10 seconds using a 12 volt
battery by connecting the positive (+) lead to the Red/
White wire and the negative (-) lead to the brown wire.
2. Monitor the capacitor voltage with a multimeter. The
voltage should slowly drain down from the initial
charge. If the cap does not hold a charge or drains
rapidly, replace the component.
Since you had damage to the hood harness area... disconnect the lighting/charging voltage regulator (so you do don't burn it up... TURN OFF the grip heaters and make sure you don't bump the switch on... best to disconnect the switch.. Then disconnect the hood harness... if your running issues disappear.. you know it is in the hood/gauge harness.

Please note... The lighting/charging Voltage regulator has NOTHING to do with running issues... This is the one mounted to the right side of the of the overstructure next to the ignition coils.


Report back.









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chriswelters

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Dec 16, 2009
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Ishpeming MI
Is that diagnosis close for the 2013 voltage regulator?

Had a dumb moment and plugged a blow hole into the ac side instead of the DC side. Don't know how I even over looked that being I read the directions 3 times.
 

mountainhorse

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Yep...holds true for the 13's as well...

If you plugged it into the AC side... It wont cause a problem with the VR though... Just the blow hole.

Also...for the DC side ... DO NOT run it into the "DC PWR" input test plug as many mfgs suggest.... That is power straight from the ECU VR and that fan motor could cause runnability issues with the sled, regardless of how many people say "I did it and it was ok for me"... First, that is a test port for INPUT power... and unfused... if you have an issue with the load on that.. then you can cause some serious running issues... I do not suggest running any electric motor type of loads off of the "ACC PWR" rubber connector up next to the headlight connector... Even though that is fused... it is for a low amperage resistive load that cannot produce "noise" in the power from to the ECU.
 
B

boondocker155

Well-known member
Sep 5, 2013
215
112
43
35
How did the speedometer wire get damaged?... Did you raise the bars or get in an accident?

IF you have ever bumped into anything with the front bumper (tree/trailer etc)... check the left side of the overstructure where the front bumper bolts to that... There are all of the brown ground wires tied into that... if the tab for the bumper mount is cracked or broken... you will have a "bad" ground that will cause problems... Or if the bolt has worked loose or there is corrosion on those ring terminals... clean them up.

NOTE: The tab can be cracked but not broken off visually ... check it thoroughly.

Then, with the sled running, using a good quality meter... Check for voltage by back-probing the Red wire coming out of the voltage regulator mounted to the clutch cover (2011/12 models)... and the brown wire connection at the chassis ground... You should have around 14.5 volts.

If it is Not 14.5 volts... Stop the sled ... pull the power-capacitor and check it as follows.

And
Check the ECU capacitor ...

Since you had damage to the hood harness area... disconnect the lighting/charging voltage regulator (so you do don't burn it up... TURN OFF the grip heaters and make sure you don't bump the switch on... best to disconnect the switch.. Then disconnect the hood harness... if your running issues disappear.. you know it is in the hood/gauge harness.

Please note... The lighting/charging Voltage regulator has NOTHING to do with running issues... This is the one mounted to the right side of the of the overstructure next to the ignition coils.


Report back.









.


Okay so I got my sled going today. I texted the VR on top of the clutch cover from the red wire to ground. At idle it was at 14.15 Volts. I'd that close enough? The grounds all looked good and solid. The idle issue just went away? I don't get what happened, before it would idle so low that it wouldn't register on the computer and it was dying on me. Tonight I ran it with the good plugged in and un plugged. It idled at about 1850 steady for a good amount of time. I don't know what changed.

I'm thinkin that I am still going to plug it into the digital wrench to see what the check engine light was for... But I think I might just go ride and see how she runs...


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chriswelters

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Dec 16, 2009
199
71
28
Ishpeming MI
After a few hrs of riding on my 13 my dash would flash on and off, with the check engine light and battery light flashing.

The blow hole works fine after being plugged into the ac circuit. I had the blow hole running off a battery for a half hr, and tested the amps and it was good at 1.8-2 amps.

Swapped out a buddys vr and did not experience a problem with the blow hole plugged in all day.

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How did the speedometer wire get damaged?... Did you raise the bars or get in an accident?

IF you have ever bumped into anything with the front bumper (tree/trailer etc)... check the left side of the overstructure where the front bumper bolts to that... There are all of the brown ground wires tied into that... if the tab for the bumper mount is cracked or broken... you will have a "bad" ground that will cause problems... Or if the bolt has worked loose or there is corrosion on those ring terminals... clean them up.

NOTE: The tab can be cracked but not broken off visually ... check it thoroughly.

Then, with the sled running, using a good quality meter... Check for voltage by back-probing the Red wire coming out of the voltage regulator mounted to the clutch cover (2011/12 models)... and the brown wire connection at the chassis ground... You should have around 14.5 volts.

If it is Not 14.5 volts... Stop the sled ... pull the power-capacitor and check it as follows.

And
Check the ECU capacitor ...

Since you had damage to the hood harness area... disconnect the lighting/charging voltage regulator (so you do don't burn it up... TURN OFF the grip heaters and make sure you don't bump the switch on... best to disconnect the switch.. Then disconnect the hood harness... if your running issues disappear.. you know it is in the hood/gauge harness.

Please note... The lighting/charging Voltage regulator has NOTHING to do with running issues... This is the one mounted to the right side of the of the overstructure next to the ignition coils.


Report back.


I'm having an issue with my 2012 SBA also. Sled seems to run perfectly fine but my headlights flicker from really dim to normal intermittently while riding. In addition, my dash flickers on and off when I stop and let it idle and sometimes will stay off, Tap the throttle and dash stays on no problem.

I tested the voltage reg on top of the clutch cover while running and had no voltage on the orange wire plug.

Brown and red wire plug
6-8VDC at idle, 13-14 at clutch engagement

Yellow wire plug
7-8VAC at idle, 12-13 at clutch engagement

Is this a voltage regulator issue or possible stator? I did not test the other regulator next to the ignition coils. Any help is greatly appreciated!
 
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