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800 ves losing spark on one cylinder

E
Jul 25, 2013
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So I recently bought a 02 edge 800 rmk 151 that is in near perfect condition, has aftermarket tall bars, a can and that's about it. Well the I bought it from said it ran great, he used it for back country ski access, drained all the fuel out before summer and then when I went to buy it it had no spark all of a sudden, he didn't know why so I got it for $600, took it home and it had a aftermarket teather switch that was bad, unhooked it and it fire right up! Ran it a little and shut it off and let it sit for a few weeks, went out and started it and it was running on one cylinder then would randomly pop and run on two then pop and back on one again, seemed boggy on the bottom but as soon as you'd really throttle it it would come on to two cylinders and runs pretty good ( this is just riding around in the gravel outside the house). I tried a cool off my other ves motor, ran the same, bought a used CDi of eBay, same... Anyone have any ideas? Pulled the plugs and that side is wet and the other side is nice brown, compression tested it and both cylinders were spot on at 125, clipped the ends of the plug wire and same. Also notice that only the high beams work, the low beams don't, could be blown bulbs i havent dug into that
 
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Jul 25, 2013
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Another thing I noticed is it has a windshield bag and someone wired up two hand warmer elements and stuck them in the bag, and I Almost thought I remembered something about handwarmer elements needed to be grounded on something like bars or it would draw too much from the stator but I could be making that up
 

Goinboardin

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Nov 15, 2009
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If bar warmers ground out to bars they don't work, all the current bypasses the heating element.

Do you have spark at both plugs? I've had Edge sleds with a bad coil give no spark and a little more work to diagnose was a bad stator. The stator is about all that's left (edit: spark-wise) from the sounds of your repair attempts. They have specific resistance values you can measure to test before throwing parts at the problem. Sorry, don't have those resistance values, but i found them on here several years ago.
 
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E
Jul 25, 2013
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Thanks, yeah I had a friend who told me he had a loose flywheel once that made one of his sled's run this way so I'm going to pull the recoil cover and take a look, I did test the stator when I first got it and it seemed close to those values, maybe a little a little more resistance than spec but nothing extreme. I hadn't actually had a chance to pull the sled over with plugs out and look for spark at both plugs, kind of hard to do by yourself, but just the way it sounds, it sounds like it cuts out and runs on one cylinder for a bit then back to two then back to one, and judging by the way the plugs look that supports it
 
E
Jul 25, 2013
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Just wanted to check, this sled has a lot of wiring additions... They all look like they are done right but with the big tall bars someone has extended all the wires, added aftermarket grip warmers, added grip warmers to the windshield bag, added the pull teather which has gone bad etc, does anyone know where the voltage regulator is on these sled's? I'd be interested to test that as well and make sure it's good considering the low beams are blown out on the headlights and it seems like at a idle the headlights are extremely dim
 

05rmksteve

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Did you try new plugs or switch the plugs from one side to the other? Is the needle and seat not seating all the way letting to much gas in on low end low rpm and flooding out that side?
 

Goinboardin

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Nov 15, 2009
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I hope he at least tried changing plugs, but good idea to ask for sure Steve.

Voltage regulator is in the left footwell area.

Check spark, so you're not guessing it's a spark issue when it may infact be a fuel/other issue. The fact that it runs fine at higher RPM & load makes me think spark system is ok. The bad stator I dealt with wouldn't run at all and had no spark. The bad coil I dealt with ran on 1 cylinder but never cleared up at higher engine speed.

If the needle/seat isn't closing properly, I would expect to see gas pouring out the carb vent line into the airbox, though it might not be that extreme. Last fall I had an 03' with a good needle/seat but the O-ring that seals that assembly to the carb had gotten hard/dried out and no longer sealed. It poured fuel out the vent line when running, just like a bad needle/seat. O-rings are a lot cheaper though.

Have you cleaned the carbs? I would on a 14 year old used sled. Just note the position of the fuel & air scews (gently bottom them out, counting the turns required to do so & write the numbers down) before removal.

Clean the VES valves. While you're in there, make sure they're the updated SS valves (or titanium--less common) and not the aluminum ones (they break off and drop in the cylinder, destroying the engine). It may not be the case, but a valve stuck wide open could really kill bottom end response, though I doubt it would cause it to go so rich it didn't fire.

When you clean the carbs, check out the reeds. Makes sure they close all the way and they're not coming apart.
 
E
Jul 25, 2013
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Yeah good call, thanks for the advise, the guy that owned it before me was pretty meticulous, very clean sled, had a shop summerize it for him every season etc. I will have someone help me watch spark and go from there, and im not for sure how well it runs because I've only ridden it around in the gravel driveway, so haven't had a chance to really open it up and see how it really runs but it seems like idle only is when it cuts out and what not, just a little throttle over idle then it goes from boggy to all of a sudden very snappy, and it has.l v force 3 reeds, but I suppose they could be bad, I've seen some fall apart before
 

cascadesnowjunky

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v force reeds back then were garbage. I would definitely check the reeds and make sure they are not broke, cracked or frayed. Broken reeds will cause a rich condition at idle that will cause what you are describing. If the reeds are good I would check what pilot jets are in it, You may have to drop them a couple sizes. I know that with reeds you have to drop 3 to 5 sizes on the main jets because it pulls so much more air it will naturally pull more fuel causing a rich condition. I had an 03 800 edge with twin pipes and when I put reeds I had to go from 420 mains to 390 mains to get it dialed in. The carburetors in 02 have a different needle than 03 so they will be jetted bigger stock (something to keep in mind). I would make sure you have spark with a new plug just grounding it to the head and pulling it over and then if you do start looking at reeds and pilot jets.
 

sno*jet

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Dec 13, 2007
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if it runs great off idle i would throw some new plugs in unless they look brand spankin new. oem champions too, not the ngks.
i would also pull the carbs and all the jets, note the sizes for future reference, blow through them, and reinstall. i check reed pedals every time i take carbs off. i never had v-force reeds but worked at a dealership back in the day and every sled i ran on the stand that had v-force had a high hanging idle. seemed lean to me.
02s were strong runners. i want to say different timing and jetting, but jetting for sure. scary lean mid-range compensated by fat main jets. i took mine to '03 jetting, got the egt temp down in mid-range, leaned out the mains, never seemed to run any stronger than stock all said n done though.
pull that plastic shelf in the airbox, the one before the carbs, not the top flat one. and the oil drenched foam.
but my initial thought was just throw some new plugs in, fill it with fresh premium and run it! might just need the cobwebs blown out :)
 
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