How to change clutch weights?

Guessing your clutch tool is shaped like a cut off U?
Take a pry bar, push on the outer cover of the clutch to squeeze it together, use that tool to hold the sheaves together.
Small ratchet and a wrench, remove the 3 bolts holding the weights in place, remove the weights, taking notice where any washers/shims may be, and install the new weights.

Guessing by your handle you have an AMG?

This is one way:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pc9IlORhDos

There is more than one way to do this, depending on your knowledge, mechanical aptitude and tool available.

Method 1; Full clutch removal
Tools required;
-Special clutch puller
-13/16 wrench
-long flat bar or screw driver (18" or so long)
-my puller uses a 1" wrench (this may vary with brand of clutch puller)
-3/8 or 10mm open end (depends on clutch)
-Hex head Allan keys (can't remember the size, around 1/8" I beleive)
- some sort of clamp

1)Remove the bolt holding the clutch in place using 13/16 and the bar to jam the clutch, I usally jam against the secondary clutch; belt removal is not required
2)thread the clutch puller into the primary, and tighten with the 1" wrench. Again using the long bar to jam the clutch. You may have to tighten the crap out of it to get it to pop free, it all depends how it was torqued, the condition of the inner taper on the clutch, and how smooth the taper on your crank shaft is
3) now that you have to clutch out of the sled, clamp the outer face of the clutch to the inner face. If you do not do this there is the potential to strip out the last bolt of the clutch cover as you remove them.
4) remove the 6 bolts holding the clutch face to the tower. Keeping in mind that it is under spring preload, and when you remove your clamp it will "pop"
5)remove clamp, clutch face, and spring
6)use 3/8 or 10mm and correct size Hex key to remove the the 3 bolts holding weights to the Primary towers
7) remove weights
8)insert new weights
9)reverse steps

Method 2: in Sled swap
tools needed:
-clamp
-allan keys
-3/8 or 10mm

1)clamp clutch face to base
2)remove 6 bolts holding face to base with 10mm or 3/8
3)remove the clamp, keeping in mind the face is under spring prelaod
4) remove clutch face and spring
5)remove the 3 bolts holding the weights in place with the Allan keys and 3/8 or 10mm
6) remove pins
7)remove weights
8)insert new weights
9) reverse steps

now some tips and tricks

-check your free play in the pin to weight, should be no side slop or your bushings in your weights wont last long and you will start to wear other parts
-once reassembed check how freely your weights move, should rotate easily.
-check your clearance from your weight to your tower, rubbing here is bad
-run the clutch face on the base without the sping installed, check for slop in the face to clutch base bushing.
-check the 3 rollers for flat spots and make sure they rotate easily
- check the weights for wear, if you have a scale check to make sure they are all the same weight (+/-a few tenth grams is typical) in a fixed size weight

tool tips
-a clutch holder or vice is handy for the full removal method
- special sockets are available to get the clearance required when removing the nuts from the clutch pins, a ground down socket or wrench will also save you from stripping the nut. Socket style Allan keys also make spinning the pin bolt easier
-caution against using an impact if using a clutch puller, the potential to ruin a crank bearing exist if using an impact.
-sometime a light 'tap' may be required on the clutch puller to break the clutch free, not a swing with a sledge hammer

I'm sure there are other ways and theories that others will chime in with

^^^^ Just did it this way the other night. Pulled the clutch bolt and three of the cover bolts out. Then slowly worked the others out. When they get close to coming out I held pressure on the cover, finished taking them out by had and then let the cover off. Make sure to mark with a marker to easily line the cover back up when reinstalling. There is an "x" on both parts of the clutch to help with reinstall but marker made it easier. Then change weights and reinstall in reverse order. Simple and only took 10 minutes. Make sure to retorque clutch bolt to proper specs.


Whoops looks like micky was faster on the keyboard. I am refering to biltits link

What is the sled you are riding and did they tell you what's in it for clutching

if you are careful you can pull the cover plate off by incrementally backing out each of the 10mm bolts on the cover. just don't try to go too fast with it and put the cover in a bind. by the time they are all backed off to where there are just a few threads engaged, you should be able to use your hand to press the cover in and remove the bolts by hand.

I've always changed weights with clutch on sled, remove 3 bolts in the cover then slowly back out the remaining bolts incrementally. I always use blue loctite on the cover bolts and make sure x on cover is lined up with x on spider. Then compress clutch by hand and get bolts started, I've never used a special tool for this. Takes me about 15 minutes plus by removing the cover the factory doesn't loctite the cover bolts and that scares me.

We change weights all the time. Five to ten minute job. No need to remove clutch cover. Remove belt. I don't know what tool you are talking about but we use a small brake adjustment tool. Looks like a small crow bar. Pry the spider and clutch tower apart and insert some kind of spacer between the two I think we used a 5/8 socket to keep them apart or maybe the tool you are talking about. With the those two separated you can easily remove the three weights with a 1/8 allen and 3/8 open end wrench. Make sure the allen head on the pin faces forward when done. Don't use locktite and don't use any chemicals or cleaner on the clutch. Only soap and hot water. It's also recommended to wash any new belt with soap and hot water using a scrub brush and let dry completely.

800 PRO RMK Primary clutch weights.

0000'-2000' 10-68
2000'-4000' 10-66
4000'-6000' 10-64
6000'-8000' 10-62
8000'-10000' 10-60
10000'12000' 10-58

i have mds weights and have changed the bolts in them on the hill, hands down easiest is remove belt and use a socket and remove the cover. i keep a small socket, an open end wrench for the pin nuts, and an Allen key for the pin in my sled all the time. also have an open end and Allan key for the mds weights.

Had anyone run dalton adjustables and any of these multiple hole adjustables? The Daltons are by far the easiest to adjust, just curious if these others are worth the hassle. Imo, the multiple hole weights allow you to adjust for certain types of riding/clutching. The Daltons cover a broader range of riding/clutching/conditions.

does the clutch bolt actually need to be removed? or can the cover just be removed?

on the cat primaries, the bolt does not need to be removed, just the six bolts holding the cover on.

It doesn't. I prefer to do it tho since I do a complete clutch inspection when changing weights

I find it odd that most seem to insist on pulling the cover to change weights! It can all be done with nothing more than the Allen wrench and the 3/8" end wrench! Pre-loosen / remove the nuts on the weight pins. Insert the box end of the wrench between the spider and the movable sheave with the offset angle towards the movable sheave to allow the most range of motion. Pry the clutch open and insert another clutch weight (parallel sides of the weight to the parallel surfaces of
the movable sheave / spider (in light of MH's note) so there is no chance of slippage or dislodging until you want it to.) beside one of the three you want to remove ( I prefer to choose / orient one to the horizontal plane so it sits there easily) release your leverage and it will close on weight you just placed. Use the Allen to remove the pin, swap weight or make your change to your adjustable and reinsert pin. Repeat, you can roll the clutch if it is more convenient. Use wrench to remove the prop weight and reinstall pin nuts. Should take you less than 3 minutes once you get comfortable with the process. For those less manly a longer wrench or pry bar can help.

The only time you need to pull the cover is to change springs, or a though inspection / rebuild. If the later is the case it is usually easier and more convenient to pull the clutch and take it inside to the work bench or send to a professional like Indy Dan.

One thing to add to the above comments... if you pry open the clutch and wedge something to hold it open.

BE CAREFUL... if the "wedge" slips... and the clutch snaps shut on your finger...you could be seriously injured.... Lots of force there.



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mountainhorse said:

One thing to add to the above comments... if you pry open the clutch and wedge something to hold it open.

BE CAREFUL... if the "wedge" slips... and the clutch snaps shut on your finger...you could be seriously injured.... Lots of force there.



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This is why I pull the cover. Plus I've seen too many hard tools slip and mar the soft aluminum in similar situations. On too of that, I have a backup clutch. My need to change weights is infrequent.

mountainhorse said:

One thing to add to the above comments... if you pry open the clutch and wedge something to hold it open.

BE CAREFUL... if the "wedge" slips... and the clutch snaps shut on your finger...you could be seriously injured.... Lots of force there.



.

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Agreed. But no reason to put your fingers in harms way. Here I used a piece of pine 5/8"x3". Once it is in, it's in there to stay and you can rotate your clutch with ease. Make sure to remove the wedge when your done!:light:

Pro-8250 said:

Agreed. But no reason to put your fingers in harms way. Here I used a piece of pine 5/8"x3". Once it is in, it's in there to stay and you can rotate your clutch with ease. Make sure to remove the wedge when your done!:light:

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sounds about right for the steps....been doing that for a couple of years now when changing weights for 7000+ feet for 5 days, then 950 feet for the next month until back to the mountains.
A7X would help too!!