S
I use the stock, you can tie the oil cable out of the way, or remove it from the block.
considering turbo v3
- Thread starter taylorbok
- Start date
we use loctite on the male adt.
yes you can route your fuel that way. just makes it harder to trouble shoot the carbs if something goes wrong.
yes you can route your fuel that way. just makes it harder to trouble shoot the carbs if something goes wrong.
honestly, a properly tapped hole of brass into alum shouldnt require loctite.. but a thread sealer would be a good idea just because you can.. i think the set we installed didnt have anything on them.. and no leaking issues.
G
I dont use the little oringy thing either, they are too soft for a butt fit.
would work correct if we had a taper seat to contain them from being extruded.
Gus
would work correct if we had a taper seat to contain them from being extruded.
Gus
we just cut the oil cable off then strip back the outside sheth say 3/8 and put a rubber cap on has worked well for many years.
T
starting to get places, hopefully be pulling the rope by this weekend
next steps are to weld on wastegate and bov, then run all lines and wiring, its getting close, we are going to revy November 11th, I should have been done sooner but I waited so long for my v band flanges and clamps that it set me way back.
any one have pictures of remote powerjet adjusters, I messaged twister but no return.
also should I run coolant through my turbo?
next steps are to weld on wastegate and bov, then run all lines and wiring, its getting close, we are going to revy November 11th, I should have been done sooner but I waited so long for my v band flanges and clamps that it set me way back.
any one have pictures of remote powerjet adjusters, I messaged twister but no return.
also should I run coolant through my turbo?
Yes, you will wanna run coolant through your turbo if you can. I ran mine out of the top of the head(old heated carbs line) through the center section and back to the coolant tank. If you don't, it called coking, its when you shut the motor down and the turbo becomes a heat sink cooking your oil into carbon mess.
Mine is also straight piped out the bottom(original exit). Its still very loud. You will find that the turbo doesn't muffle the exhaust as much as you would think.
Mine is also straight piped out the bottom(original exit). Its still very loud. You will find that the turbo doesn't muffle the exhaust as much as you would think.
N
remotes
Here is a pic of my dash mounted remotes.
Here is a pic of my dash mounted remotes.
starting to get places, hopefully be pulling the rope by this weekend
next steps are to weld on wastegate and bov, then run all lines and wiring, its getting close, we are going to revy November 11th, I should have been done sooner but I waited so long for my v band flanges and clamps that it set me way back.
any one have pictures of remote powerjet adjusters, I messaged twister but no return.
also should I run coolant through my turbo?
S
Turbo setup is looking great. Where are you guy's getting remote adjusters? Would like to get a set for my second set of powerjets.
N
remotes
The remotes are actually flexible drive shafts from mcmaster carr.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#flexible-drive-shafts/=erh6k8
I have the steel with female end and panel mount in .187" diameter and then pick your length. The 1/4" female end goes over your power jet and is set with an allen screw. The lengths were a little long for my application so i actually cut the cable down and tied them together with a small clamp. They work great and i have had zero problems. I went to the local hardware store for my knobs.
The gauges work great. I clock the boost gauge so my desired boost is at 12 0'clock. If i did it again i would go with 2" gauges.
The remotes are actually flexible drive shafts from mcmaster carr.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#flexible-drive-shafts/=erh6k8
I have the steel with female end and panel mount in .187" diameter and then pick your length. The 1/4" female end goes over your power jet and is set with an allen screw. The lengths were a little long for my application so i actually cut the cable down and tied them together with a small clamp. They work great and i have had zero problems. I went to the local hardware store for my knobs.
The gauges work great. I clock the boost gauge so my desired boost is at 12 0'clock. If i did it again i would go with 2" gauges.
