turbo xp is runing badass!!!

sounds good cbx. I got to see if I get my sled fixed and runing by then first though. Thank you very much for the offer.
well.... I got the sputtering and bottom end issue fixed on the 4th day. Yes 4th day and not years. lol...
I just turned the fuel/air screws in a 1/2 turn. I don't know what they were at and it was a pain to do it on the sled with secondary removed. Throttle responce is still not as good at high elevations as it is at low elevations, but it is still better then a stock xp. Still want to play with maybee the pilots to see if I can get throttle responce better at high elevations. maybee play with air screws some more too. also thinking of trying 360 or 370 mains and just opening the power jets more. on 4th and 5th day I did not touch the power jets from 1 turn out from 5,500-+ 8,000' elevation. unfortunatly where the oil tank connects to the adapter on the turbo cracked on the 4th day. tried jb welding it and putting a hose clamp over the crack. tank stayed on, but leaked oil every where. trail was really rough on the previous days and I was really hamering them. skiped trail alltogether on 5th and 6th days after jb welding tank. going to do some thing different so it does not break again. got one idea that should be good, but got another idea that should not have any problems at all. don't want to have to worry about it.
we got pretty deep fresh snow on the 5th day. sled ran great, but still need more power. when ground speed is up it does good, but when you get the ground speed way down and pin it, it just points the skii's at the sky. after awhile it gains the ground speed back and keeps going. I went through one section tight through some trees and slowed way down. I thought for sure I was stuck, but just kept it pined and it crawled along. about a 6' deep trench for a long ways.
Can't wait to turn it up to 10lbs on a deep day and try to figure out how to keep the front end down on this 154. for now 7lbs is great on pump gas.
On the 6th day it felt like power was droping, but thought it was because we had alot of fresh snow and it got warm. Snow was really wet and heavy.
started turning clickers up and turning power jets off. Then realized it was only pulling 4 or 5lbs of boost. Checked stuff out and couldn't find any thing wrong. decided I better head back before we have to tow it out. after awhile it wasn't making any boost, but fortunatly was still runing. felt like power was down a little compared to a stocker, but it still ran. So I just took it easy to limp it back to the cabin. checked pipe, charge tube, charge box, rave valves, turbo, waste gate, bov, and couplers and they were all good. Then noticed the throttle cable was frayed bad at the throttle and only a few strands still holding. Wouldn't ride it if I could fix it. Rode the M8 all day on the 7th day. it was fun since I hadn't rode it in a long time.
So I am going to rig something up to presureize the system tomarrow night and see what it is leaking from. got work lined up for all day tomarrow. All I can think of is the carb boots. I would think it would run like crap if it was the carb boots though.
I usually always presureize new installs before runing them to find leaks, but I was in a hurry to get it done and head out to ride. You would be surprised where you find leaks some times.
Can't wait to get it fixed and ride it again.

I will pull it apart and check the reeds. I will probably presure check it first since it is almost all together just to check for leaks anyways.
Then I will have to pull it all apart to replace my throttle cable.
fraying throttle cable explains why it would hang up and have run on once in awhile. I had my bov working great most of the time and every once in awhile it would hang up and want to keep going and I would have to hit the brakes. cable is all frayed at the throttle lever with only a few strands still holding it.
I hope it is not the reeds. I put brand new boyesen turbo reeds in and they would have failed on the 6th day runing them. not good.
If it is failed reeds I will send you a pm about your reed setup. I don't know about the steel reeds. Don't want to take the chance of ruining my motor and turbo if they fail.

it still had a pretty decent amount in the tank. I have a red led activatied by a hobs switch to make sure oil presure does not drop or run out of oil. I am runing coolant to the turbo. I can hold my hand on the oil tank for a decent amount of time. oil is definatly colder then the oil I run to my turbo bikes.
I set the hobs switch at 5psi and am runing 10w-30 full synthetic mobile one car oil. when I first start or oil is cold the light goes off and stays off. once the oil warms up the light blinks. The pump pulses so the light flashes the whole time. the led is bright, but not too bright it is a little anoying, but atleast I know if the light is flashing it is working and the light is very easy to see in all conditions. Even with snow on it. I am thinking of turning the hobs switch to 4psi or maybee just below so the light does not flash when the pump is working, but will come on if the pump quites or their is no oil. pump is advertised as 4-7psi.
I definatly do not think it is a turbo problem. Turbo spins for a very long time after shuting it off.
I tried runing it for awhile with the water to the turbo shut off. Turbo gets way hotter with the water shut off to it. with water to the turbo if I put snow on the center section it will steem off right against the turbine houseing to about 3/16" away from turbine. The rest the snow just melts off. with the water turned off it boils snow on the whole center section.

it is just a hobs switch. it is actually a really nice stainless steel one I had leftover from a aquamist water injection kit. it is a normally closed hobs switch. just run power to one side of the led and run the ground from the led to the hobs switch. other side of hobs switch to chassie ground.
so when oil presure is below whatever you set it at the light will be on. ground will be connected. Then when oil presure gets above whatever you set it at the connection opens and light turns off. sled has to be runing to have power for the light to be on. I connected a 12v battery to prime the fuel system and make sure the oil pump was primed and getting oil to the turbo before starting the sled for the first time.
I could figure out a price for you to get the whole assembly/all the parts you need.
I will try to post pics of everything tonight or tomarrow.

Are you sure you can not adjust the unit that you have now? You can send me a pic of it to: jeremywanders@hotmail.com and I will let you know if it is a hobbs switch or not and if it is how to adjust it.
if it is a typical cheap hobs switch their will be a ruber cap on the top. pull the ruber cap off and their will be a ajuster screw or allen to adjust the presure the switch opens or closses at.

yes. I could probably dump 20-50 oil in it and the light would quite flashing. I have heard of people useing down to 0-5w oil so it flows easily at cold temps to people useing 20-50 to keep the pressure up.
I just have a bunch of 10-30 mobile one full synthetic in the garage that I don't use in any thing else so I figured I would use it in the sled.