TRS Clutching [ PART FOUR ]

diamonddave · Apr 4, 2017

MH NOTE: Continued from [PART THREE]
https://www.snowest.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4070517&postcount=75

Sage Crusher said:
Diamond Dave-
I sure had to -I was @.020and the sled would creep with the lighting weights in
Didn't matter if it was a poo belt or the gates"C"
But now at .030 the is the better and can adjust the deflection- before didn't matter the primary was always on the belt

FYI: The 150/290 doesn't work as well as the 140/300 here in the nose bleed section of 9500'and up.
Lost some RPM and changed the secondary 200 to the 220 -not as strong as the past setup
Sled seems to like the 300 primary with the 200 in the secondary.
Been a fun year with the aid of Tony and Tory-
The higher elevation was getting tough to get it just perfect
I am running 2.6 -163 with a TKI system . The main difference I had was, I am running the 8's drivers off the 14/15 pro - so a bit more involved - but well worth the effort.

Interesting...so with proper deflection, you were getting sled creep with 0.020" belt to sheave clearance? Even with proper deflection? You had to add 0.010" shim? Wow. Were you at 0.020" prior to changing weights?

So I noticed with lightening weights, I have about 0.015" additional belt to sheave clearance than with Team Rooster's. My SLP tool seems a tad wider than a new belt.

It's just the first time I have seen where I could remove the shim(s) all-together and still have 0.018" belt to sheave clearance. I might try to find a 0.010" shim and run it at 0.028" just to be safe. I'm afraid with belt heat, the belt will swell and be too tight. Which is what sounds like happened to Sage.

xpspenziv · Apr 4, 2017

If I remember right I took 2 shims out to get the .025-.030 clearance for the belt to sheave. I left enough to where if I didn't like them I could put Indy Dans in and it would be a little tight but functional for the day on the hill. When the belt deflection is right after running for a bit and the belt gets hot it will squeal a little.

JJ_0909 · Apr 6, 2017

Just wanted to say this is an incredibly awesome/robust discussion. Wish there was a place just for stuff like this these days. It leads to progress, even if that progress is "this didn't work".

Thanks to all who have taken the plunge...

Sage Crusher · Apr 10, 2017

diamonddave said:
Interesting...so with proper deflection, you were getting sled creep with 0.020" belt to sheave clearance? Even with proper deflection? You had to add 0.010" shim? Wow. Were you at 0.020" prior to changing weights?

So I noticed with lightening weights, I have about 0.015" additional belt to sheave clearance than with Team Rooster's. My SLP tool seems a tad wider than a new belt.

It's just the first time I have seen where I could remove the shim(s) all-together and still have 0.018" belt to sheave clearance. I might try to find a 0.010" shim and run it at 0.028" just to be safe. I'm afraid with belt heat, the belt will swell and be too tight. Which is what sounds like happened to Sage.

Yepper- but when you play with it and get it "just" right- it's worth the time and effort..for the buttery smooth engagement. .030 is the fine line

Norway · Apr 21, 2017

N/A??

So did we get the N/A part of this branched off somewhere or not? Does not look like it.

See the weights are getting hard to come by and wondering what the next best thing is? Could it be us NA guys can run something different with good results?

On topic about torque arms, how solid can such a link be? When on full load, is there much flex left with the types offered? Or are they stretched so hard by the turbo power that in reality you cold have a chain there in stead? Wondering if you could use a link that has some slack, letting the stock rubbers take the vibration. And then, under load, the engine twist until parallel and stop against the torque arm.

Yes? No?

RS

Davajn · Apr 24, 2017

So how does people like the indy speciality turbo clutch kit compared to TRS kit?

Just bought a IS kit for my mtntk turbo machine so its going to be nice to see how it performs.

Anyone who runs this kit and have done any modifications to it? Other springs or?

It consists of 120-310 primary spring, 140-200 secondary spring, their 2x mountain helix (low/high elevation) and their own weights that has some tuck under and alot of adjustability.

Do these weights need to be shimmed in or can it be run with oem primary?

Would be nice to hear your thoughts about this kit.

AKFULLTHROTTLE · Apr 24, 2017

Davajn said:
So how does people like the indy speciality turbo clutch kit compared to TRS kit?

Just bought a IS kit for my mtntk turbo machine so its going to be nice to see how it performs.

Anyone who runs this kit and have done any modifications to it? Other springs or?

It consists of 120-310 primary spring, 140-200 secondary spring, their 2x mountain helix (low/high elevation) and their own weights that has some tuck under and alot of adjustability.

Do these weights need to be shimmed in or can it be run with oem primary?

Would be nice to hear your thoughts about this kit.

We are loving it here at 200' to 5000'!

IMO you will want a 155/222 with the Mountain 2 Helix. But you can the 140/200 a try.

The 120/310 (125/310) Primary seams to be perfect. We have tried many others and always go back to that range.

You will most likely need to pull a shim out or so. You will want to make sure it is shimmed properly.

What weights do you have? Turbo 3?
And what elevation and boost are you running?

Davajn · Apr 24, 2017

AKFULLTHROTTLE said:
We are loving it here at 200' to 5000'!

IMO you will want a 155/222 with the Mountain 2 Helix. But you can the 140/200 a try.

You will most likely need to pull a shim out or so. You will want to make sure it is shimmed properly.

What weights do you have? Turbo 3?
And what elevation and boost are you running?

Okey. Whats the difference between the low/high elevation on the helix?

What is the correct clearence for these weights? Didnt get any instructions.

NO clue what version of weights it is. But its a brand new kit so probably the latest revision!

My normal riding is between 15-2500 feet. But now during springtime its alot of mountain riding so then its 2500-5000 feet.

Mtntk turbokit, 7-10psi.
Tki beltdrive 2.25 gearing (63/28) & 8T 2.86 avid no-slip drivers combod with a Talon M66 track. (No idea of final drive ratio with the 8T 2.86 driver)

AKFULLTHROTTLE · Apr 25, 2017

Davajn said:
Okey. Whats the difference between the low/high elevation on the helix?

Do you have two cuts on the helix?

Davajn · Apr 25, 2017

AKFULLTHROTTLE said:
Do you have two cuts on the helix?

Yes

AKFULLTHROTTLE · Apr 25, 2017

Davajn said:
Yes

OK, Was told he was not making those anymore. he Low Elevation should be a steeper cut.

You want no more than .030

aksledjunkie · Apr 25, 2017

Davajn said:
So how does people like the indy speciality turbo clutch kit compared to TRS kit?

Just bought a IS kit for my mtntk turbo machine so its going to be nice to see how it performs.

Anyone who runs this kit and have done any modifications to it? Other springs or?

It consists of 120-310 primary spring, 140-200 secondary spring, their 2x mountain helix (low/high elevation) and their own weights that has some tuck under and alot of adjustability.

Do these weights need to be shimmed in or can it be run with oem primary?

Would be nice to hear your thoughts about this kit.

So personally I'm running,
5# of boost Silber Turbo
150' - 2500' elevation
T3 Indy Turbo weights, 78grams
Black/white 140/320 Polaris primary spring
Mtn X1 Indy helix (Shallower, single cut)
SSI Blue 145/225

This setup works flawlessly for aggressive tree riding in the low elevations. Belt life is phenomenal. 600 mile and counting with current belt.

TRS · Apr 25, 2017

Paluby said:
So personally I'm running,
5# of boost Silber Turbo
150' - 2500' elevation
T3 Indy Turbo weights, 78grams
Black/white 140/320 Polaris primary spring
Mtn X1 Indy helix (Shallower, single cut)
SSI Blue 145/225

This setup works flawlessly for aggressive tree riding in the low elevations. Belt life is phenomenal. 600 mile and counting with current belt.

That is a good helix, I know the cut:face-icon-small-hap

aksledjunkie · Apr 25, 2017

TRS said:
That is a good helix, I know the cut:face-icon-small-hap

I compared it to my 46-34F cut before making the switch haha. One thing I really like is the Indy single cut helix ER notch. So much nicer than the dual cut helix I had before.

TRS · Apr 25, 2017

Paluby said:
I compared it to my 46-34F cut before making the switch haha. One thing I really like is the Indy single cut helix ER notch. So much nicer than the dual cut helix I had before.

Yes sir, I informed Dan the problem we were having with the custom cut helix orders "notch" when he was at my place. Along with the remedy. He had them change it on his order.
We as consumers, buying a few at a time don't have that luxury. Cudos to Dan for getting it done.
A 140 start on the secondary spring will generally remedy the non-engagement of the reverse notch. Getting to a lighter initial on secondary clutch setups warrant machining the notch.

Testing going on with a 42-32F ER single cut that looks very promising.

Davajn · Apr 26, 2017

Got the kit now. Its the mountain 2 helix with only one cut. And turbo 3 weights 67-78gram.

goridedoo · Apr 26, 2017

Norway said:
So did we get the N/A part of this branched off somewhere or not? Does not look like it.

See the weights are getting hard to come by and wondering what the next best thing is? Could it be us NA guys can run something different with good results?

On topic about torque arms, how solid can such a link be? When on full load, is there much flex left with the types offered? Or are they stretched so hard by the turbo power that in reality you cold have a chain there in stead? Wondering if you could use a link that has some slack, letting the stock rubbers take the vibration. And then, under load, the engine twist until parallel and stop against the torque arm.

Yes? No?

RS

Im certainly interested in an NA setup as well but the lack of availability for lightning weights is keeping me away. Sounds like they are the only way to go. Would be sweet if someone could start producing them again... definitely wouldnt have to be in .1 gram increments either, 2 gram like stock with the option to drill would be perfect. Seems like the average ride consists of a variation of 2000-4000' anyway.

Spaarky · Apr 26, 2017

We will be working on a Axys NA set up next year. The Pro NA set up is killer. It's a good starting point. Get heavier weights and have them machined down to the 62.5 size. Or whatever you think you need.

IMO dialing in Tony's clutching is a bigger gain than porting or a big bore. My two buddies with stock Pro's and Tony's clutching shock a lot of people.

goridedoo · Apr 28, 2017

Spaarky said:
We will be working on a Axys NA set up next year. The Pro NA set up is killer. It's a good starting point. Get heavier weights and have them machined down to the 62.5 size. Or whatever you think you need.

IMO dialing in Tony's clutching is a bigger gain than porting or a big bore. My two buddies with stock Pro's and Tony's clutching shock a lot of people.

Do you have a recommendation on machining? Indy Dan? Maybe someone local? I am by Brookings.

Norway · Apr 29, 2017

Spaarky said:
We will be working on a Axys NA set up next year. The Pro NA set up is killer. It's a good starting point. Get heavier weights and have them machined down to the 62.5 size. Or whatever you think you need.

IMO dialing in Tony's clutching is a bigger gain than porting or a big bore. My two buddies with stock Pro's and Tony's clutching shock a lot of people.

What is the pro NA setup? I have the 46/34F in there noe with a 100-200 spring. Stock gold om primary with 70 Lightning and pillede one Thon shim (not sure I'm done there).

Pulls strong! but only reaches 7950-8000 and IT surges forward even og engagement is smooth.

Have pro gears to put on, but wonder if 68gr weights and a slightly shallower helix Are in order?

RS

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TRS Clutching [ PART FOUR ]

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